Metal lathe? Peterborough area?

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Do you not have a 'Thread Pitch Gauge' ? The difference between 24tpi and 1mm is palpable with well made sets. If you have one such as shown in the referenced Video then maybe not as much :)

On order, but not yet!
And yes, the one in the video!
I'm guessing you have a better recommendation?
 
ps. How to tell a 55 deg thread from 60?
BSW from UNC?
The easy way - though not fool-proof - would be to see whether the thread-form had a rounded or flat crest/root. A Whitworth Form (55°) will (if fully formed) have a rounded crest and root - but if the OD was reduced then it could have a flat. The UNC (60°) could have a rounded root but will always have a flat crest -- as long as it hasn't been worn. So much depends upon how and where it has been used.

A good quality Thread Pitch Gauge will have both Whit. , Unified and Metric thread form gauges as separate 'leaves' -- the one shown in the video (as explained by the presenter) appears to have Imperial (TPI) legends on one side of each leaf and Metric (Pitch) legends on the other. If that is so, then the thread angle will probably be neither 55° or 60° so would only be useful to check an approximation of the TPI or Pitch, not to determine Whit. , Unified or Metric. I can't point you to a supplier of quality gauges though.

The best way would be to get access to a 50:1 shadowgraph so that you can measure the image :D

I'm in the process of writing a computer program that calculates the micrometer reading over 'three wires' when measuring the effective diameter of many threads. It also shows the form and various other features which might be useful. If you would like to see (test) a copy send me a PM with your e-mail address.
 
The easy way - though not fool-proof - would be to see whether the thread-form had a rounded or flat crest/root. A Whitworth Form (55°) will (if fully formed) have a rounded crest and root - but if the OD was reduced then it could have a flat. The UNC (60°) could have a rounded root but will always have a flat crest -- as long as it hasn't been worn. So much depends upon how and where it has been used.

A good quality Thread Pitch Gauge will have both Whit. , Unified and Metric thread form gauges as separate 'leaves' -- the one shown in the video (as explained by the presenter) appears to have Imperial (TPI) legends on one side of each leaf and Metric (Pitch) legends on the other. If that is so, then the thread angle will probably be neither 55° or 60° so would only be useful to check an approximation of the TPI or Pitch, not to determine Whit. , Unified or Metric. I can't point you to a supplier of quality gauges though.

The best way would be to get access to a 50:1 shadowgraph so that you can measure the image :D

I'm in the process of writing a computer program that calculates the micrometer reading over 'three wires' when measuring the effective diameter of many threads. It also shows the form and various other features which might be useful. If you would like to see (test) a copy send me a PM with your e-mail address.
pm sent.
P1002640.jpg


I guess age hasn't helped. I can't tell from a magnifying glass whether crowns have flat / rounded? Best guess they are sharp (wear?...)
 
There is insufficient contrast between the thread & the background for me to be certain about the thread-form but it does look most likely to be Unified.

Enlarging the image in Photoshop and 'scaling' it seems that the OD is 5.5mm or 0.2165".
Using the same image, the 'pitch' (over 6 crests) works out at 0.04179" which is 23.92 TPI so I'm happy with calling that 24 !

In which case N° 12 UNC does seem the most likely fit.

PM seen & e-mail with program details sent.
 
out of interest "More and Wright" makes/made good thread gauges, do they still excist...?
guess there will be others...
I have two sets.....
Dread to think of the cost of new....2 of my treasured tools....
hope it all works out for u....
In my time came across some hand made threaded nut's n bolts...
(old machines).....
 
There is insufficient contrast between the thread & the background for me to be certain about the thread-form but it does look most likely to be Unified.

Enlarging the image in Photoshop and 'scaling' it seems that the OD is 5.5mm or 0.2165".
Using the same image, the 'pitch' (over 6 crests) works out at 0.04179" which is 23.92 TPI so I'm happy with calling that 24 !

In which case N° 12 UNC does seem the most likely fit.

PM seen & e-mail with program details sent.

I nearly agree. One table I have has UNC #12 as 28 tpi, 7/32 as 24 tpi.
Another (Hague fasteners) shows 7/32 as BSW with OD of 5.56mm.

I tend to agree, UNC #12, so the device is American.

Thanks.
 
A new thread?
;-)
This youtube video helped me understand the differences and how to measure threads. UK bias perhaps.
I've tapped into it. Dieing to get a thread gauge
(Sorry, couldn't resist)
Very Droll as Sir Humphrey would say!, you seem to have a Thorney issue here, unfortunately I don't have a metal working lathe either, something I have often regretted, but you can't afford everything for your workshop, I have had success in the past making my own bits and pieces using a drill mounted horizontally and a good file to reduce the diameter, then re-threading with a suitable Die, so I think in the absence of suitable machine tool I would try the same, I have also do this with a spinning workpiece against a bench grinder with a finer grit wheel as the other correspondent suggested, I hope this helps :) Julie
 
Dave take an image of the treads with a white paper back ground and I can put it in my software and tell you what it is, not long ago did the same for Stig and he got sorted.
If you want a taper pin making no problem I can do it just for the cost of postage.
 
Dave take an image of the treads with a white paper back ground and I can put it in my software and tell you what it is, not long ago did the same for Stig and he got sorted.
If you want a taper pin making no problem I can do it just for the cost of postage.
I / we are almost convinced it is number 12 UNC. tpi definitely 24. OD of threads (digital micro's 'change') but I'd be happier agreeing to 5.486 (#12) rather than 5.556 (BSW 7/32... but 'in brackets possibly OOD or something)
Thanks for the kind offer Phil.
 
<sigh/> Follow on. Dies? Tracytools shows me a die.... but fails to spec the outside diameter?
How are dies 'grouped' with die holders please? Anyone know?
Again Tracytools has lots to offer but... (odd?) they don't work on Good Friday!
 
I have had success in the past making my own bits and pieces using a drill mounted horizontally and a good file to reduce the diameter, then re-threading with a suitable Die, so I think in the absence of suitable machine tool I would try the same, I have also do this with a spinning workpiece against a bench grinder with a finer grit wheel as the other correspondent suggested, I hope this helps :) Julie
Grinder, with bar in hand held drill?
Mmmm You still have 10 fingers Julie?
Efficient but risky.....
I think I shall take up one of the kind offers of adding a point the easy way, on a 'real' lathe.
I guess I could have done it on my ww lathe, swapped out for a p/t, swapped out for working area!
C'est la vie.
 
<sigh/> Follow on. Dies? Tracytools shows me a die.... but fails to spec the outside diameter?
How are dies 'grouped' with die holders please? Anyone know?
Again Tracytools has lots to offer but... (odd?) they don't work on Good Friday!
I'm somewhat surprised at that, Tracy are usually very good but I've just checked a number of suppliers and even my (normally) trusty Machinery's Handbook and can find very little information on Thread size - Die-Stock size combinations. From experience, I would expect a 7/32" or #12 die to come as a 13/16 OD but that's not guaranteed.

Presumably, if you are 'into' engineering and use Dies then the chances are that you will have a range of Die-Stocks on hand. Personally I have 2 - 13/16", 3 - 1" and a 1/3/8"

The staff at Tracy will certainly be able and very willing to advise you. If you are seriously concidering making your own new trammel 'point' and you haven't previously used Threading Dies, then make sure that you get a 'split' Die and don't try to go to finished size in one pass, nor think that you don't need to support the Die-stock square on to the workpiece -- ie. with something in the chuck of a pillar drill to keep it 'Square'.
 
As this is primarily a wood-butchery forum, might I suggest a time honoured method borrowed from that discipline?

Take a piece of 6mm metal rod. Chuck up in a cordless drill. Apply sandpaper until it is fits the hole in the brass. Reverse in chuck. Apply sandpaper until the necessary degree of pointyness is achieved. Apply glue (called Loctite in the metalworking trade). Get on with the rest of your life.
 
As this is primarily a wood-butchery forum, might I suggest a time honoured method borrowed from that discipline?

Take a piece of 6mm metal rod. Chuck up in a cordless drill. Apply sandpaper until it is fits the hole in the brass. Reverse in chuck. Apply sandpaper until the necessary degree of pointyness is achieved. Apply glue (called Loctite in the metalworking trade). Get on with the rest of your life.
I've only got a couple dozen sheets of sandpaper...
Tried a file in similar setup, and took off a good .....5mm after 20 mins!
Plucking up courage to follow @Julie example next ;-)
(or wait to hear from Dave)
 

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