Meranti double driveway gates

[SJ_Wood]

Hi All ,

First post and first ‘proper’ project.
Driveway gates in Meranti.

I had planned on finishing with an Osmo colour but now favouring a stain or oil to preserve the lovely wood look.

However been slightly alarmed regarding Meranti and its Oily nature?

so some early replies I had from paint/stain/oil manufactures suggest I should weather the gates pre-treatment for upto 4 months?

looking for advice please from a complete newbie!

 

[Doug71]

Well first of all great looking gates, amazing results for a first proper project

I haven't used Meranti for years, it's not actually that durable so make sure you use a decent product on them and keep on top of the maintenance.

The Sikkens range of stains are highly rated, I use their Cetol HLS as a basecoat and the Cetol Filter 7 as a topcoat.

 

[SJ_Wood]

Hi Doug, thanks have learnt a lot!

have been looking at the Sikkens range, seems popular

 

[Jameshow]

Nice!

I'll just pop out and measure the distance between my gate posts!

Cheers James

 

[philip sewell]

Be mindful of the gap between the t and g boards, they will swell quite a lot when they get wet. Nice gates though!

 

[Fred48]

Lovely design. Wedged mortice and tenon joints as well. Which side are the hinges going?

 

[SJ_Wood]

Be mindful of the gap between the t and g boards, they will swell quite a lot when they get wet. Nice gates though!

thanks Philip!

they are not finally assembled yet , too cold for the glue.

the t & g are butted together but have a couple of mm each side/end to ‘float’ , won’t be glued as they are captive 4 sides

should be ok ?

 

[SJ_Wood]

Lovely design. Wedged mortice and tenon joints as well. Which side are the hinges going?

thanks !

this is a pair so swan necks meet in the middle at the high point

original design, bracing modified in the build;

 

[Fred48]

Great. When I saw the photo i was not sure the diagonal support was positioned correctly. The drawing clearly shows that it is.
There are a number of members on this forum with better knowledge than me on the next point. What glue are you going to use?

 

[philip sewell]

On the boards swelling. I would take an off cut, measure the width then dunk it in water for 24 hours . Measure the width again when it's swollen with water and that gives a worse case scenario of how wide the boards could expand (not that they will be submerged in water when they are in the gate but it gives you an idea of possible expansion) . I've seen boards bulging out in gates because not enough room was left for them to move so worth getting it right at this stage.

 

[RobinBHM]

the t & g are butted together but have a couple of mm each side/end to ‘float

Lovely looking gates, great workmanship.

In regards to the t and g gap - 2 mm at each end won't be nearly enough. You will need at least 2mm per board, if not more.

Personally I would make them captive with a pin in the middle of each.

 

[SJ_Wood]

Lovely looking gates, great workmanship.

In regards to the t and g gap - 2 mm at each end won't be nearly enough. You will need at least 2mm per board, if not more.

Personally I would make them captive with a pin in the middle of each.

‘ok great advice thanks

so 2mm each? Doesn’t that spoil the look and point of t&g?

I could pin I guess , don't want it to be noticeable though from the front, maybe rear top/bottom angle pins?

 

[Fred48]

Great idea re pinning each board. Pre drill in the 't ' and fix with a copper pin.

 

[SJ_Wood]

Great. When I saw the photo i was not sure the diagonal support was positioned correctly. The drawing clearly shows that it is.
There are a number of members on this forum with better knowledge than me on the next point. What glue are you going to use?

 

[Fred48]

The glue looks good to me.
The diagonal bracing is fitted with biscuits. I personally would strengthen the joint with 4" countersunk stainless steel screws, fitted from the bottom surface. If someone placed excessive force, for example by swinging on the gate without this screw fixture, you could have a problem.
If you do use screws you could hide the holes with a piece of maranti.

 

[katellwood]

Great job, my only concern would be the bracing. you are banking on the biscuit and glue to prevent any drop on the gates. in reality they should be notched into the top and middle rails to be totally effective.

this was my effort some years ago and have stood the test of time

Driveway gates

 

[SJ_Wood]

The glue looks good to me.
The diagonal bracing is fitted with biscuits. I personally would strengthen the joint with 4" countersunk stainless steel screws, fitted from the bottom surface. If someone placed excessive force, for example by swinging on the gate without this screw fixture, you could have a problem.
If you do use screws you could hide the holes with a piece of maranti.

yes good idea! the bracing was a concern still

 

[SJ_Wood]

Great job, my only concern would be the bracing. you are banking on the biscuit and glue to prevent any drop on the gates. in reality they should be notched into the top and middle rails to be totally effective.

this was my effort some years ago and have stood the test of time

Driveway gates

View attachment 106752



View attachment 106751

looks good!, I think you are right that would have been better!

 

[SJ_Wood]

Great job, my only concern would be the bracing. you are banking on the biscuit and glue to prevent any drop on the gates. in reality they should be notched into the top and middle rails to be totally effective.

this was my effort some years ago and have stood the test of time

Driveway gates

View attachment 106752



View attachment 106751

just read the build thread, brilliant project! love your workshop and tools!

 

[Doug71]

I agree about needing a gap between the boards, they will swell up.

Glue wise I like PU something like this

https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/45-minute-polyurethane-wood-adhesive-liquid/
PU can get a bit messy if you are not used to it but it's 100% waterproof. The 502 stuff can start gripping quite quickly and make assembly a bit fraught if you don't get a move on, also it's only D3 rated, a D4 rated adhesive is more waterproof. Everbuild do a D4 pva type glue or Titebond 3 is D4 rated.

You say the boarding is captive on 4 sides, how have you finished the bottom of the boards, it's traditional to just let them fly over the front of the bottom rail so the water can run off?