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You could use biscuits, KD fittings, Dominos, pocket screws or dados and rabbetts
 
Hello Hawkeye
Are you sure about those measurements?
Thats a big Unit!!!!
Welcome to the forum.

Travis

PS its like wizer said--many options
 
doesn't seem an unrealsonable size to me. That's about 3 feet 4 inches wide by 2.5 feet deep by 5 feet 2.5 inches high.
 
I want there to be as little work involved as possible but also strong robust joints. For the shelves I was gonna use dado joints but for connecting the sides of the carass to the back of the carcass I'm not at all sure how to do it. I may want to dismantle aswell keep in mind. KD joints look easy but how strong will they be in holding a 1590x750 carcass together? My experience with pocket hole joints is that you need millions of them to make a strong bond. Biscuits are not an option as they don't allow an easy dismantle. Standard butt joints being screwed in from the outside is easy as ****, dosen't require any routing, but ugly as ****. What would you use personally..
 
For quick and easy and KD I'd use the domino's and then pocket screws. I'd rebate the back back in and then screw that to the rest of the carcass, there by making it stronger.

Johnny B
 
Thing is though I'm not hot on having to rebate out that whole section of both side pieces to fit the back piece in and then use screws. Just to clarify what you mean by that description is a corner halving joint?
 
p111dom":31l7ef6o said:
doesn't seem an unrealsonable size to me. That's about 3 feet 4 inches wide by 2.5 feet deep by 5 feet 2.5 inches high.

I think he meant mm instead of cm. If he really did mean cm then it's massive!
 
Sawdust":2tj3rfmu said:
p111dom":2tj3rfmu said:
doesn't seem an unrealsonable size to me. That's about 3 feet 4 inches wide by 2.5 feet deep by 5 feet 2.5 inches high.

I think he meant mm instead of cm. If he really did mean cm then it's massive!

I meant cm. I don't make mistakes 8)
 
Not sure what you mean by a corner halving joint, can't picture that.
I meant butt joint the sides to the top, using the domino's for location and strength and then the pocket screws to hold it together, doing the same with the shelves. This would be fairly wobbly though. If you had put a rebate on the back edge of the sides, top and bottom for the back to sit into you could screw through the back into the sides, top, bottom and shelves and stop much of the 'wobble'. Still not the strongest but certainly easy and also KD.
 
If you meant cm then that makes it 10 mtrs wide and needs a very high ceiling #-o Must be a walk in cupboard, no room. :lol:
 
Don't think I have the necessary tools to do Domino joints. I understand what you mean when you say rebate say for example 6mm down the sides, top and bottom for the back to sit in but that requires a little to much work for my liking and the back would have to be firmly joined anyway which still leave me with the problem of how to do that. After looking through my Peter Brett book there's various options in how to join butt joints :-

Nails/ screws at an angle

Screwed blocks

Dowels

Pin and Cam (which I'm familiar with from IKEA flat pack projects)

Knock down blocks (made from plastic or in some cases wood)

Corner bracing/brackets of some variety
 
HawkEye":p78vinmt said:
Sawdust":p78vinmt said:
p111dom":p78vinmt said:
doesn't seem an unrealsonable size to me. That's about 3 feet 4 inches wide by 2.5 feet deep by 5 feet 2.5 inches high.

I think he meant mm instead of cm. If he really did mean cm then it's massive!

I meant cm. I don't make mistakes 8)


Sorry I meant mm. I don't make mistakes 8)
 
I still need advice on how to do this.,, say for example without using glue or cramps..
 
I would use the same fittings as you would find on Ikea furniture, it seems the easist way if you don't want to spend the time to create other types of joints.
 
That's more my line of thought. I've long since surpassed trying to do very extensive difficult joints for simple projects. I was thinking maybe if I put dowel joints all down the sides of the back piece to slot into the sides pieces and then used KD blocks inside the carcass to hold it all together. Hoping that it would provide more stability. How about that..
 
If I had to build this knowing it would have to be taken apart later,
I would run a 12 x 18 mm rebate along 2 short and 1 long edge on both side pieces, then fit the top and bottom into this rebate and screw down from the top and bottom into the sides so your screws will be vertical when installed. Do the same for the back panel, best way is to screw it to keep the unit nice and square.
Put another top on it over hanging 20mm each way and bobs yer uncle.
about 2 hours work.
 

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