Matt wood wax

[sihollies]

I have just finished a marquetry/parquetry box with a Morrells waterborne lacquer and am extremely happy with the finish, but would like to use a wax as a final coat, as I like the tactile quality of a waxed surface.

Currently the finish is matt with a minimal sheen & and was wondering if anyone please recommend a clear matt wood wax that I can apply as the final coat?

Many thanks in advance, as always.

Simon

 

[eribaMotters]

I do not know of a matt wax finish. The wax needs to be buffed so a sheen of some level will result.
I do not like gloss finishes on wood in either painted or natural look. I have recently used Liberon Beeswax with Turpentine and then, by mistake, Liberon Black Bison. [see recent post] Each gave a light sheen finish and nice to the touch.
My first attempt in your case would be to try a light coat of spray wax, but make sure it says no silicon.

Colin

 

[sihollies]

Thanks Colin,
I did actually read your post a couple of days ago, which was interesting & took note.
Would you say the Liberon beeswax that you initially used was a satin sheen or leaning more towards a matt effect?
I have the Black Bison wax, but I find it a little bit glossy tbh, but I will have a look into spray waxes that you suggested.

Thanks again,
Simon

 

[Fergie 307]

I suppose there is no reason why you shouldn't just apply beeswax and then not buff it, although any sort of handling will probably then give it a sheen. Certainly has a Matt appearance pre buffing, never tried just leaving it at that stage to see what happens long term..

 

[profchris]

There are two ways to get a matt finish:

1. Sand but don't buff. This will shine up lots with handling.

2. Add some particles to the finish which scatter light - this is what's done for matt lacquers etc. They'll shine up a bit with wear, but not to full gloss.

I've not heard any way of adding matting particles to wax, so it will gloss up if buffed or handled.

You could try option 1 with a very thin film of wax on it, but I think that's the best you could do with wax.

 

[sihollies]

Thanks for all your input.

profchris: I am only an avid hobbyist, and have never heard of matting particles, prior to your reply, so thankyou for the education.

I probably wont mess with the finish on the box, but will certainly research on the use of matting particles for future projects.

I have ordered some spray beeswax, which should arrive tomorrow and will apply a light coat.

Thanks all!!

Simon

 

[Seascaper]

I have just finished a marquetry/parquetry box with a Morrells waterborne lacquer and am extremely happy with the finish, but would like to use a wax as a final coat, as I like the tactile quality of a waxed surface.

Currently the finish is matt with a minimal sheen & and was wondering if anyone please recommend a clear matt wood wax that I can apply as the final coat?

Many thanks in advance, as always.

Simon

Hello,
Simply get some rough grade wire wool and use that to take shine off, job done,
Regards

 

[sihollies]

Thanks Seascaper.

I have achieved a perfectly flat matt finish with the use of wire wool, but would like to apply a layer of matt wax, as I would like the tactile quality of a wax finish.

Cheers,
Simon

 

[Vintage Frames]

First of all, don't use any branded wax finishes.
Just use pure bees wax pellets dissolved in turpentine.
The bees wax will give you the closest 'dry shine' polish achievable.
All the branded waxes are adulterated with various resins and paraffin waxes which contribute to a greasy sort of finish, especially if use excessively.
After you have applied the bees wax polish (two coats always), buff it up to a high shine.
This hardens the wax.
Now use 00 wire wool to temper back the shine to your own taste.

 

[sihollies]

Thanks,
I'll give that ago, as I've never made/dissolved my own wax and always like to learn!

Cheers,
Simon

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I have to completely disagree with Simon. Pure beeswax is horrible sticky stuff with a very low melting point, the finish shows fingerprints and attracts dust. It is only any good if mixed with about 30% carnauba wax. As for branded waxes some are horrible and some are great, it all depends on the mix. One of the worse branded waxes is probably Fiddes supreme wax because it has so much paraffin wax in it, their rep Bob Morgan gave me a tub of it to try when they first developed it, I told him it was horrible stuff, they went on to make a fortune out of it so what do I know!
One of the best branded waxes is Renaissance wax which is a modified paraffin wax developed by the British museum in the 1950’s. It has a high melting point so will not show finger prints or attract dust. If you use this and do not buff, it will give you the Matt finish you are after. That said I don’t think using wax is the right way to achieve the finish you are after!

 

[Vintage Frames]

It wasn't actually Simon that recommended bees wax but me. I sort of wanted to keep things simple by not mentioning carnauba wax which might have frightened off anyone wanting to experiment some with wax. Yes, carnauba wax will harden the wax a bit more but can also inhibit the workability of the finish. If anyone is up for trying pure bees wax and turpentine, flatten the first coat with some 0000 wire wool after it has dried. Then go for the second coat. The secret is to achieve the thinnest complete coating for the hardest finish.
Renaissance wax is good for an almost imperceptible wax finish - more of a dry buffed up effect. I feel bees wax gives a more natural and tactile finish.

 

[Stigmorgan]

Has anyone tried putting an oil coat on first them working a wax finish in while the oil is still wet on the wood? In an attempt to slow down the drying of some turned green oak I've done this with my current project and it seems to give a nice almost Matt finish, there's a light sheen but it's certainly not glossy.