Matki shower screen magnetic seal closure

[MMUK]

Is there any way to slide the magnets out or is it all sealed ? How thicks the glass ? Looks like a nice screen so longs you don't turn the water on :roll:
Edit - is it like this

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Spot on. Magnets sealed inside.

Sorry but that looks like a really **** system :roll:

 

[Doug B]

I had something similar on a recent job...... Called the manufacturer ( not matki) and they sent new seals which worked a treat........

Had this on a few makes over the years, get a new set & they work really well, probably just a duff set of magnets Rog.

 

[jasonB]

Roger, I've also fitted several showers with the same type of magnetic seal. From the type of gap you show I would say the strip has been distorted in the box and now won't spring back. Have you had this screen standing around for a long time like the bath as if it were under pressure in the box for a long time it will take on a "set"

Try a bit of warm air on it (away from teh glass) if it does not reform then get a new strip, Matki are good if its under warrante.

As Chippie says you also need to get teh doors spot on as the magnets are just strong enough to hold the two parts together, they won't pull the joint up if the doors are out of line

J

PS Thanks for teh link.

 

[RogerS]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Matki are sending me a set of new seals. Fingers crossed.

 

[RogerS]

I admit defeat. I have received the new set of seals. Matki have modified the design. They are even worse.

I give up.

 

[ColeyS1]

I thought of you earlier today when I spotted some of those glass clamps for lifting- stick one on the left door......... least you got a spare set to try and canabalise now.

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[gregmcateer]

Thanks Bob...that's also my take. I like the hairdryer idea.

While we're on the subject of shower screens, why do the instructions say to silicone on the room side of the shower screen? I would have thought it would look neater hidden away and done inside the shower cubicle.

Roger,

I had a similar situation and I removed the seal on the 'back' edge of the door - ie beyond the swivel hinge - that was enough to take the resistance off to let the magnets grip - not sure if your setup would allow this.

Re the silicone - Mine had same instructions, which I THINK, (but not sure), is to allo any water that runs down the door to run back into the shower rather than into any crevice below the door. (Remember, water is a sneaky little b@@@@d).

I did actually seal on the inside, as I wasn't satisfied with the outside technique and it has been fine here.

Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but to achieve a really neat silicon joint, without the little 'feather' edge, I carefully and laboriously put masking tape down each side of the joint, then apply the silicon and smooth it, (wet finger or tool), ensuring it is not too thick. Then immediately (ie before it has skinned), remove the masking tape and leave it well alone until it has cured. I have found this stops the feathers I described, which flake and attract that nasty black mildew.

HTH

Greg

 

[RogerS]

Hi Greg

Thanks for the suggestions. The seal that you refer to is already off and has made no difference. I am simply resigned to leaving an old towel on the floor by the door. To that end, applying silicone is also pretty pointless as the towel will already be there !

I did pick up that tip re masking tape from a YouTube video but it is worth reminding folk of the technique as you do get a far superior result. I also learned the hard way to not use Duck tape because it tears far too easily. Also to try and use a contrasting tape colour to that of the tiles.

 

[ColeyS1]

I thought it was the moisture from .... the 'wetted finger' that often caused the silicone to go mouldy prematurely :?

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[Water-Mark]

It won't help if you lick it thats for sure.

You should be able to "push" the gaps in the seals closed by sliding the seal on the glass.
I have a couple of old wall chanels for doing this as it is very comon, more than 3/4's of the enclosures see in fact.

Almost all enclosures use this system these days and i've never come across one that won't seal along the magnets.

If silicone is applied properly it doesn't need masking tape for neat edges.

 

[RogerS]

.....
If silicone is applied properly it doesn't need masking tape for neat edges.

So how do you do yours? Do you just run the nozzle down and that's it ?

 

[chippy1970]

Roger, this is how the proper silicone guys do it , it's very simple.

Prepare a spray bottle of washing up liquid and water. Then run a bead of silicone along all of your joints. Straight away spray everything with the soapy water then either run your finger or a special tool down all joints. The excess silicone will come off in a neat ball in your hand and you can throw it away. This leaves you with perfect joints every time. Don't use masking tape it leaves a tiny edge which catches dirt over time.

The special tool can just be a shaped dowel soaked in water that's all the silicone guys use. They have several shapes and sizes they carry round in a tub of water.

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[RogerS]

Mmmm...not convinced. That is the way that I used to do it. End result? A thin smear of silicone extruding out in every direction that just attracted dirt and mould and ended up looking awful. I';m trying the masking tape method. Time will tell !

 

[chippy1970]

Mmmm...not convinced. That is the way that I used to do it. End result? A thin smear of silicone extruding out in every direction that just attracted dirt and mould and ended up looking awful.

Lol

All I can say Roger is that I work on high end jobs in and around London. The kitchens in the house we're building in Knightsbridge alone cost £1.4 million God only knows how much all the bathrooms cost.Do you really think they would smear silicone everywhere and make them look "awful" lol.

Take it or leave it that's exactly how professional mastic men do the job.

Only trying to help.

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[RogerS]

LOL...Maybe they have dainty fingers :lol: You know what those ******* down the South East are like. All cappucino and smoothies :wink:

 

[Water-Mark]

It's pretty much as chippy said except I use a diluted solution of bleach and tools cut from tile adhesive lids.
That way I can shape the tools to suit the job, if the tool is the right shape it will leave a uniform edge and remove any excess silicone in one pass.

I reseal hundreds of showers/baths every year, barely a day goes by with out some silicone action.

 

[RogerS]

I can see where you are coming from but there is one thing I don't understand. As you slide your tool over the silicone, excess silicone is going to build up and be pushed out away from your silicone line. Surely that excess is going to end up leaving a trail ?

We need a YouTube video !

 

[chippy1970]

I can see where you are coming from but there is one thing I don't understand. As you slide your tool over the silicone, excess silicone is going to build up and be pushed out away from your silicone line. Surely that excess is going to end up leaving a trail ?

We need a YouTube video !

No Roger that's the whole point of spraying soapy water everywhere. The excess won't stick and it rolls up in your hand and leaves a perfect job

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[ColeyS1]

I quite often think I need 1 or 10 tubes of spare silicone to practice with :roll: I guess holding metal against one of the sides is not as strong ?

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