Mathieson Plane
- Thread starter Florin
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Looks like they’d stopped making that model by 1933 (cat page below). It’s a very fancy sash filister, and probably would have been very expensive to make. The dovetailed boxing, the fancy tote, and the screw arm adjustment make it top of the range.
If you restore it very carefully you’ll have a proper beauty on your hands.
Edit - looking closely, there’s something weird about the nicker that needs sorting out. Also, if the depth stop brassware is removed and polished it will come up beautifully.
If you restore it very carefully you’ll have a proper beauty on your hands.
Edit - looking closely, there’s something weird about the nicker that needs sorting out. Also, if the depth stop brassware is removed and polished it will come up beautifully.
Last edited:
Orraloon
Established Member
As said above its a top of the range sash fillester. It also looks in good condition for its age so would not take much to get it working. Those screw arm planes are getting a bit rare now so its worth looking after. Being Mathieson its about as good as they get.
Regards
John
Regards
John
Yes, is a nice plane. Tha white stuff that I tought was glue (hence my poor conclusion) is only hardened wax. Who kows for how long the plane sat untouched. I like it a lot better than the metal ones. Thanks for helping out.
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Couple of things to note from the pictures as I see them, as mentioned something wrong with the nicker iron which may be snapped short.
It may be that the wedge is incorrect, looks a bit narrow in the slot.
Is there some repair work been done to the front dovetail boxing ?
Does the depth stop operate efficiently as there is a corrosion stain by the mounting area?
Cheers, Andy
It may be that the wedge is incorrect, looks a bit narrow in the slot.
Is there some repair work been done to the front dovetail boxing ?
Does the depth stop operate efficiently as there is a corrosion stain by the mounting area?
Cheers, Andy
If you want any advice on restoring it then I’m sure plenty will be forthcoming
As Andy says the wedge looks a bit strange but it clearly isn’t set, from the wear markings on it. It’s probably the original wedge as it matches the skew on the mortise. A small gap at the top at the front isn’t a problem, in fact it’s necessary that it isn’t tight there.
I’d suggest tapping the wedge in and seeing if you can get a thin feeler gauge or a piece of light paper behind the blade just behind the cutting edge. If you can’t get a feeler gauge in there, it’s an easy cosmetic restoration for a working plane. If you can, it probably requires surgery.
To get the iron out, tap it through the body by the tang. Don’t whack the plane on the back with a hammer. That’s what ruins the lovely boxing. I’m not aware of any planemakers alive today who can do boxing like that.
Wedge may be wrong and the iron is welded . But other than that no other isues.
Thank you for advice. I will be carefull with it. I wasn`t aware that handled fillister planes were made but I`m glad I found one.If you want any advice on restoring it then I’m sure plenty will be forthcoming
As Andy says the wedge looks a bit strange but it clearly isn’t set, from the wear markings on it. It’s probably the original wedge as it matches the skew on the mortise. A small gap at the top at the front isn’t a problem, in fact it’s necessary that it isn’t tight there.
I’d suggest tapping the wedge in and seeing if you can get a thin feeler gauge or a piece of light paper behind the blade just behind the cutting edge. If you can’t get a feeler gauge in there, it’s an easy cosmetic restoration for a working plane. If you can, it probably requires surgery.
To get the iron out, tap it through the body by the tang. Don’t whack the plane on the back with a hammer. That’s what ruins the lovely boxing. I’m not aware of any planemakers alive today who can do boxing like that.
Orraloon
Established Member
Just had a second closer look (first pic) and the cutting iron looks really strange like its got a sharp bend. May explain why the wedge is half out. Any chance of some pics of the main and nicker irons plus wedges out of the plane?
Regards
John
Regards
John
Hi John.
The blade have a bump from rust but either way the wedge is still not good. The gap between blade and wedge is to big. Wrong angle. Most probably from other plane. Also the nicker is missing.
Cheers
Florin
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Orraloon
Established Member
Florin,
Can't really see a lot in that pic. Really need to see the whole blade and wedge. Anyhow that lump of rust will flake off if you hit it a few times with a hammmer. Do it on a flat surface so as not bend it. That long arm part of the blade is not hardened like the cutting part. Things like nickers and wedges can be made
Something to watch.
031 Mathieson moving fillister rebuild - YouTube
Not quite the same plane but it shows they can be made to work again. There would be enough knowhow on the forum to help you get there.
Regards
John
Can't really see a lot in that pic. Really need to see the whole blade and wedge. Anyhow that lump of rust will flake off if you hit it a few times with a hammmer. Do it on a flat surface so as not bend it. That long arm part of the blade is not hardened like the cutting part. Things like nickers and wedges can be made
Something to watch.
031 Mathieson moving fillister rebuild - YouTube
Not quite the same plane but it shows they can be made to work again. There would be enough knowhow on the forum to help you get there.
Regards
John
Where is the gap between the blade and wedge too big? At the top of the mortise at the front?
These wedges are a bit counterintuitive. They don’t work in the obvious way.
There are 3 points of pressure for a rabbet plane wedge.
1) at the back at the top against the tang
2) at the front at the bottom of the mortise as the wedge emerges from the plane body and
3) against the blade.
That’s all. Significant contact anywhere else, and it won’t work properly.
The plane works by wedging between these 3 points. That’s what provides the pressure to bed the iron. It’s Newtons 3rd law.
You absolutely don’t want the wedge tight at the front of the mortise at the top. The plane won’t work.
You can make a nice new wedge that looks like it’ll work but unless it meets these rules, it won’t work and the iron won’t bed. You’ll lose a lot of hair.
Obviously, test that really matters is that you can’t get a skinny feeler gauge under the blade just behind the cutting edge.
You want to be able to get a feeler gauge *behind* the iron at the bottom of the mortise - at the top of the bed at the back where the iron exits the mortise. Else the iron won’t bed at the bottom. This creates a springing action in the blade to keep it properly bedded at the bottom.
Lovely plane!
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