Matching grain on all four corners of a box

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

brianhabby

Established Member
Joined
24 Sep 2006
Messages
1,965
Reaction score
10
Location
Colwyn Bay, North Wales
Hi all,

I've been searching the forum as I'm sure I've seen a post in the past that described a method of having the grain continue around all four corners of a box. However, I've been unsuccessful in my searching.

Does anyone remember such a post or can tell me a technique for accomplishing what I ask?

Hope I've explained myself properly.

regards

Brian
 
Easy make the box from MDF :D

If you deep saw a board and use one piece for the front & left side, the other for the back & right side you can get it quite close, saw edges to outside. The thinner the board the better or best is consecutive sheets of veneer(don't need to deep saw these)

J
 
Hello Brian,

I managed to achieve your aim on this jewellery box I made a few years ago.

2393829460_647ab0f766.jpg


There was no secret I just cut the four sides from one prepared length of oak. I used a simple mitre joint.

No room for error though Brian :)

Cheers, Tony.
 
If you mean that the box, when closed looks just like a block of wood. Look at the end and you have the end grain. the only way I can describe it is as first stated, it look just like a block?

If so, then you just square up your block, cut what is to be the top off on a band saw, about 3/8" thick. Cut the back and front off, about the same, and you now have the body of the box. Turn it on its side and cut out the 'hole', for want of a better expression. If you want 2 compartments in the box then cut 2 'holes'. Glue the back and front back on followed by the top. You now have a hollow block.

Next, turn the hollow block on its side and using the rip fence set to the depth that you want the top to be, 1/2" for instance, cut the top off. You now have the box body with a seperate top which you can either hinge to the body or use some insets in the body to locate a seperate top.

This is a box I made years back for a chess set I made. The insets are just glued in and make a perfect fit for the lid. Tiny brass hinges were used on the lid.

Chessset7.jpg


Sorry that I couldn't do a diagramme of the method?
 
brianhabby":3t980dc0 said:
I'm sure I've seen a post in the past that described a method of having the grain continue around all four corners of a box. However, I've been unsuccessful in my searching. Brian
box-corner-grain-match-900px-web.jpg

Slainte.
 
Richard your sketch makes what I was saying a bit easier to understand.

Escudo that method usuall gives 3 matching corners but a mismatch where the two ends of the box join.

J
 
jasonB":1n3l25j3 said:
Easy make the box from MDF :D

Now why didn't I think of that :D

Jason & Slainte - hole in one. That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks. However, I'd forgotten that you needed to resaw the board but it makes perfect sense now. The drawing explains what I was looking for admirably.

I was asking because I have a piece of ash with some distinctive grain which would look good on a box but I won't be able to use this technique on that piece because it is already only 11mm thick/thin. I don't think I could resaw it successfully and still have enough useable timber left.

Jonzjob, although your idea is not what I was looking for, I quite like it and will probably use the technique in the future, thanks.

Tony, I don't see how you could have the grain running around all four corners if you used a single board but I would be pleased to be proven wrong :)

Liam, thanks for the video links, I'll check them out later, I'm on a pretty slow connection at the moment.

Thank you to everyone for your input.

regards

Brian
 
I was asking because I have a piece of ash with some distinctive grain which would look good on a box but I won't be able to use this technique on that piece because it is already only 11mm thick/thin. I don't think I could resaw it successfully and still have enough useable timber left.

Treat it as bandsawn veneer plane it up, saw down the middle then glue the sawn surfaces to some ply or MDF and something else to balance the other side, you can then pass it back through the thicknesser to plane the bandsawn faces without the risk of chewing up the thin slice of wood. I have just been doing something similar, making styles for 3 doors out of one piece of reclaimed 5x 1 1/2.

J
 
Back
Top