Matchfit dovetail clamps or would track clamps work

[Rorton]

Been looking at the micro jig dovetail clamps, you route a dovetail slot in your timber, slide in the clamp to secure it, and instant clamping.
they seem expensive though, £50 for 2 clamps, so got me wondering about the normal f type clamps that are used to secure track saw track, could they be used, perhaps cut a t slot in the timber instead?

any one use them ?

 

[Terrytpot]

I've seen lots of online stuff where folk use both types of clamp in slots they've cut or built into wood but have not tried it myself (ignoring the fact I don't own either sort) as like you say, they do seem unreasonably expensive but also as I can't help thinking that's really not what they're designed for as any pressure in the opposite direction to that of the clamping force is acting on a weakened part of the timber. If I was going to attempt it I'd only use them in a "Track" designed for the purpose.

 

[johnnyb]

I use track clamps but when using them for false fences I use 25mm mdf and drill a hole.

 

[Rorton]

I saw a video where someone tested the pressure needed to pull the clamp through, mdf failed, but ply and hardwood was good.

These look good as you dont need to keep buying track, so could have lots of jigs made if you wanted, or make a quick jig for a job, throw it away, and it was just a piece of wood, nothing extra needed.

 

[billw]

I’ve not found any good alternative to the clamps, but then again the cost of routing a groove is a less than buying track.

 

[Rorton]

was looking at a t slot cutting router bit, but the depth needed would be too deep - planing on usual 3/4 material, and these need more to have enough timber above the slot to hold a regular track clamp.

They just seem like a track clamp with a different shape end - wonder if anyone good at metal work wanted to hammer a few cheeper clamps to fit

Really didn't want to use track as you say, you have to keep buying it, so I may have to tray some and see how I get on.

 

[Braddersmd]

I have them. The clamps work exceptionally well, and there is no deformation on the work surface. The tracks cut with the system bits do not fit regular clamps. The profile is slightly different. I found it far better to use the straight bit from the system and then the dovetail, when compared to cutting directly with the dovetail. Far less prone to accidents when cutting. The bits they supply leave a channel that is not sharp and needs no sanding, if set at the correct depth. They work really well, you can cut tracks anywhere you need them, and work out a lot cheaper than buying multiple tracks if you want total flexibility.

I tested them on 18mm hardwood ply - in ref. to the 3/4 material comment. No flex in the surface noticed to press, despite the depth. Going to try them on 19mm valchromat very soon. 18mm ply surface was totally covered in 20mm 96mm centre dogholes also.

 

[Rorton]

Thanks for that, I did read about using a straight bit to remove most of the material and then follow with the the dovetail bit after

did you buy the pro kit which comes with the dovetail bit?

 

[Cordy]

Santa brought me a couple of those micro jig clamps - yes they are expensive

Tried them on cheap 18 mm plywood and they work fine on my Bosch PBD40
Cut a pilot groove first with a bit from my box of miscellaneous cheapo half inch routers

Then pushed through with this FROM eBay router bit -- no need for their 'special' router bit imho

 

[Braddersmd]

Thanks for that, I did read about using a straight bit to remove most of the material and then follow with the the dovetail bit after

did you buy the pro kit which comes with the dovetail bit?

Yeah. The kit comes with two brackets (I also bought two more - the ones with the dual direction force bases) and a separate straight bit. Got it from Woodworkers. Good service too. Got the 1/4” straight bit as the 1/2” was OOS.

in the kit you get a small bag of parts to make jigs etc. So far I’ve only used them to make a bench too stop - but it worked well. I’d recommend the kit highly. Very flexible and adds function to the working surface, as you’re not restricted to fixed positions. Also routed a track on the “skirt” I have too - and used it + clamps in conjunction with two dogs to support a piece vertically to work on the edge. Again, worked very well without issues.

 

[Rorton]

You’re not helping - I’m trying to save money here and now your making me consider the pro kit

which straight bit size did you buy?

 

[Braddersmd]

You’re not helping - I’m trying to save money here and now your making me consider the pro kit

which straight bit size did you buy?

I bought the kit, with 2 brackets, jig assemblies and a 1/2" dovetail, a separate 1/4" straight bit to pre cut the channels (1/2" straight bit was out of stock), and two of the higher end clamps.

 

[Rorton]

Thanks. I misread your measurements as shank size and not cutter size!

just a plain old 1/4 bit, nothing fancy about it? Would a half inch router bit not be too big. is the base of the dovetail 1/2?

 

[Terrytpot]

was looking at a t slot cutting router bit, but the depth needed would be too deep - planing on usual 3/4 material, and these need more to have enough timber above the slot to hold a regular track clamp.

Granted that 3/4" is a bit too shallow but if you could use thicker material I have seen where some have avoided the need for a T slot cutter by building the surface up in layers leaving the cavity required below the surface. If I was seeking a way to do this that's the way I'd probably attack it.

 

[Braddersmd]

Thanks. I misread your measurements as shank size and not cutter size!

just a plain old 1/4 bit, nothing fancy about it? Would a half inch router bit not be too big. is the base of the dovetail 1/2?

i was talking about the Matchfit cutters (dovetail and straight) and shank size. The cutters, as far as I am aware are the same size ( cut the same track) regardless of shank - hence me buying the 1/4” shank Matchfit straight cutter as the half inch version to match the pro kit Matchfit 1/2” dovetail was not in stock. Not sure how to be clearer, but if you’re still puzzled give me a nudge.

 

[Rorton]

Thanks, that’s not a bad idea. I’m just thinking how useful being able to route a dovetail groove quickly and then use it, jigs for the table saw etc but does that offset the cost, not sure!

 

[Rorton]

i was talking about the Matchfit cutters (dovetail and straight) and shank size. The cutters, as far as I am aware are the same size ( cut the same track) regardless of shank - hence me buying the 1/4” shank Matchfit straight cutter as the half inch version to match the pro kit Matchfit 1/2” dovetail was not in stock. Not sure how to be clearer, but if you’re still puzzled give me a nudge.

Thanks, I didn’t realise they did a straight bit to match the kit, I understand now. It’s the relief router bit with a 1/4 shank

 

[Braddersmd]

Thanks, I didn’t realise they did a straight bit to match the kit, I understand now. It’s the relief router bit with a 1/4 shank

Yeah, that’s the one. It really is a decent set of gear. Does seem expensive for what you get, as I felt the same when I opened the kit box, but in use, and being able to stick tracks anywhere you want, it really does come into its own.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I have a question about the Matchfit clamps and Festool/Makita track: can these clamps replace the dedicated track clamps used to hold down the track? They look very similar in size and shape.

Background: I have the Matchfit clamps, and have just ordered a short Makita track and router fitting. I have never used a track before, and thought that this would be a good way to line up router-cut dados.

The two fixtures used the most with the Matchfit clamps ....

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Braddersmd]

Hi Derek, no, alas, the profile of the Matchfit clamps (or mine at least) is ever so slightly different to the Festool ones I also have that came with my TS55/track kit. To the eye they look very very similar, but when you attempt to insert the Matchfit clamp into the underside of the Festool track, it goes in partially (almost to the shoulder) and then stops. Not to say they couldn't be "made to fit", but mine don't out of the box. I have actually been tempted to buy some Bessey clamps (EZR15-6) for the purpose after seeing a video by Peter Parfitt.