Mallets.

[marcros]

i find them quicker, you dont have to turn it round when you pick it up. I also find the feedback better using the carvers style mallet on a chisel.

For assembly, i would use a nylon one or standard square headed one with a piece of something to protect the workpiece.

 

[Jacob]

If you use a square one with chisels it gets hollow in the middle and becomes less useful for wood bashing - where you want a nice flat surface. Round ones for chisels only - you can use the whole 360º of the face and distribute the stress so it'll last longer.

 

[jimi43]

What is the advantage of having a circular or barrel shaped mallet over your bog standard square headed beech or boxwood mallet? I've never seen the point to be honest :?

In what circumstances do you use a mallet. It might just be the application it's used on that dictates the best tool for the job.

Let us know what you use it on and we may be able to help.

Jimi

 

[MMUK]

Most of my chisel work is normally hacking out mortices, half laps or lock/keep pockets. I just use my nylon Thor mallet. I just wondered where the advantage would lie in a circular headed mallet.

 

[Jacob]

Most of my chisel work is normally hacking out mortices, half laps or lock/keep pockets. I just use my nylon Thor mallet. I just wondered where the advantage would lie in a circular headed mallet.

The main thing about mallets of all shapes is that they are bigger than hammers so you can concentrate on the pointy end of the chisel without worrying about hitting your hand. Plus it helps avoid marking the wood if you are knocking stuff about.
It matters less with a hammer and nail, as you have already located the point and can concentrate on hitting the head of the nail.

 

[charvercarver]

Carvers mallets are round so that a misdirected blow deflects off the end of the chisel instead of driving the edge of the chisel into somewhere you don't want it. Bear in mind that when you are carving you maybe swinging the mallet from any conceivable angle, whereas in joinery you're mostly chopping down.

If you use a square one with chisels it gets hollow in the middle and becomes less useful for wood bashing - where you want a nice flat surface. Round ones for chisels only - you can use the whole 360º of the face and distribute the stress so it'll last longer.

Traditionally you only use the end grain, it's called the 'beat'. Of course it depends how it was turned if that is possible.

 

[JohnPW]

The first thing I made was a mallet from pine. OK pine's a bit soft and the bashing end does get dented but at leasted it won't damage wooden chisel handles or wooden planes at all.

Carvers mallets are round so that a misdirected blow deflects off the end of the chisel instead of driving the edge of the chisel into somewhere you don't want it. Bear in mind that when you are carving you maybe swinging the mallet from any conceivable angle, whereas in joinery you're mostly chopping down.

I would have thought the purpose of a round head is that it works in any direction. The disadvantage is of course you have to hit the chisel straight on, if you don't it will glance off. But the misdirected blow is a consequence of the round design not its purpose, I would think. If you used a flat faced mallet for carving, where you're switching directions all the time, then you wouldn't get misdirected blows at all but you'd need to change your grip or twist your wrist with each new swing direction.

 

[bugbear]

Proper job!

BugBear

 

[MMUK]

I need one of these :mrgreen:

 

[charvercarver]

The first thing I made was a mallet from pine. OK pine's a bit soft and the bashing end does get dented but at leasted it won't damage wooden chisel handles or wooden planes at all.

Carvers mallets are round so that a misdirected blow deflects off the end of the chisel instead of driving the edge of the chisel into somewhere you don't want it. Bear in mind that when you are carving you maybe swinging the mallet from any conceivable angle, whereas in joinery you're mostly chopping down.

I would have thought the purpose of a round head is that it works in any direction. The disadvantage is of course you have to hit the chisel straight on, if you don't it will glance off. But the misdirected blow is a consequence of the round design not its purpose, I would think. If you used a flat faced mallet for carving, where you're switching directions all the time, then you wouldn't get misdirected blows at all but you'd need to change your grip or twist your wrist with each new swing direction.

Traditionally carvers mallets don't work in any direction, you always try to hit the gouge with the 'beat' or end grain. This is why some carvers cut in thumb grooves to index the grip. I'm not sure I follow you about misdirected blows, as you say if you don't hit dead on the mallet will glance off, that is the point it will glance off the chisel rather than driving it in an unwanted direction and gouging the workpiece.

 

[JohnPW]

I meant the mallet glancing off the chisel is a consequence of the round design, not its purpose.

 

[charvercarver]

It may not have been, but that's the main advantage for carvers.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

There are some beautiful mallets here. There is something about a carver's mallet that calls for the artist in us. I think it is the curves. It is also the wood, and the round head allows the grain to be shown off it its best.

However I also see mallets being let down by (in my opinion) poor ergonomics - the face of the mallets may be the wrong angle and, especially, the handle is either too short or too long, or simply not shaped to be gripped ... or all above.

So here is the question for all: what do you look for in the ergonomics mentioned above? Do you even factor these in - or just add a lump of wood to a stick and call it a mallet? :shock:

Here are a few of the mallets I am using, one's for which I have built handles ...

I posted this heavy (38 oz) morticing mallet before. It is weighted with brass infills on each side ...

The faces are angled at 5 degrees (from memory) and lined with 1/8" hard horse butt leather.

The handle allows for a lower grip for maximum heft in our local hard woods, as well as a closed up, choked grip for lighter use. The end of the handle is left square for orientation.

The following mallet is the Veritas Cabinetmaker's, which weighs 18 oz. This is used with un-hooped bench chisels or mortices in softer wood. The original handle was too straight and about 3/4" too short for me. I added a slightly thicker version that was shaped for a secure grip. One face also has horse butt leather.

The last mallet is a Japanese gennou. This has a Tenryuu gennou head weighing 375 gm It is doe hooped Japanese bench and dovetail chisels. The handle is a traditional design, with one curved side - this is simply to aid to differentiate the domed from the flat hammer face. The handle is oval for grip and directionality.

The interesting feature of this nomi is that the tenon is attached without a wedge. The tenon is made slightly oversize, then compressed by hammering on all four sides, before forcing the tenon into and through the mortice.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Corneel]

Do you even factor these in - or just add a lump of wood to a stick and call it a mallet?[/b] :shock:



Regards from Perth

Derek

That's about it. I can't be bothered over everything. But my lump on a stick (slightly shaped to a more oval section) has grown on me and I don't want another one. I guess you can get used to everything.