Making workshop Windows using recycled double glazing

[Oaktree11]

Hello all,
Apologies if you have read about this already in my post about my new shed build. I thought that this was a more appropriate forum for the window issue?
The idea is to use the double glazed glass inserts (1000w X 1200h) removed from all the PVC-U. My idea is that I make a wooden frame to locate them in. I would like some opening and some to fixed in the roof which will be a pitch of 25 degrees and clay tiled. I have 12 of these!
I can see how to make the frames but unsure about opening window design.
Any help,or suggestions welcome.
John

 

[RobinBHM]

Im not sure double glazed units would be suitable for a roof light.

Aluminium roof vents use double glazing that is held in with a wedge gasket and the opener and frame are drained.

In a timber frame or opening sash the conventional approach is to have a stepped sealed unit with a step at the lower edge which is then flush for water to run off.

One option maybe to allow the double glazed unit to run beyond the frane or opening sash, then fit an end closure which both protects the spacer bar from sunlight and creates a drip edge.

I would fit the glass sides and top with exitex capex or similar, either a flat one or a gable end bar with a downstand.

Think of it like a conservatory roof, not a window. I definitely would not glaze it like a window with beads.

Obviously for convrntional vertical application, make like a conventional window, either with a sash or direct glazed

 

[petermillard]

I've only done a couple of opening roof lights, but I did a bit of research beforehand and this...

...allow the double glazed unit to run beyond the frane or opening sash, then fit an end closure which both protects the spacer bar from sunlight and creates a drip edge.

was the most common approach - basically an inverted 'U' (an 'n' ??) so the d/g panel extends beyond the opening. Heavy duty friction-style hinges, something like these did the job for me.

My roof was fully glazed, so made extensive use of conservatory-style glazing bars which were easy to seal around; a bit more work involved with clay tiles, I'd imagine, lots of flashing...

HTH Pete

 

[Oaktree11]

Guys, thank you so much for the help.

I am afraid that I didn't make it very clear but I gave up the idea of opening windows in the roof, they will just be fixed but I want all of the vertical Windows to open.

I have a 2500w X 2.25h roller shutter door in the end so I don't think that I will be short of ventilation when necessary!

John

 

[deema]

Why not just buy a secondhand UPVC window with glass? I've bought a few recently for about £10~£20 each. A little searching and patience and you can find brown, rosewood or white units which include the fill.

 

[Oaktree11]

Deem a, that's what I did! I will post a pic of the units. They are big and heavy with all the steel stiffening bars so I just want to use the glass.

 

[Oaktree11]

A pic of the Windows

 

[Oaktree11]

This is the sort of thing I am thinking to make from the dg units. Without the fancy opener! It LOOKS straightforward enough....

 

[Fitzroy]

I'm also planning to make dg windows for my shed, none opening in my case but that's irrelevant. As you say not that difficult, the devil (based on my research) seems to be the issue of fitting the dgu in the frame in such a way that you protect the edge seal from water. Either bedding it completely in low modulus silicone or allowing any water to drain away from it via an edge gap and drainage channels. Without doing this water (likely vapour) will eventually get through the edge seal and the window will mist up. Personally i'm going for a fully bedded solution held in with wooden beads.

F.

 

[Oaktree11]

Fitzroy, I agree. I am going to build the frame from tantalised 100 X 50 with a groove rebated in to fit the dg unit. The frame will be built around the window instead of sliding the window in so that I can bed it in silicon properly, I know it's there for life but this fine.
The ones in the roof will be slightly different because the dg unit won't be rebated into the lower frame rail but be flush with it to allow water to run off.
That's the theory.....
John

 

[Oaktree11]

Hello all. Just an update. I solved the problem as reported in my thread about the workshop build. It is completely different to my original idea! thats the way things evolve! Because i dont (yet) have a workshop I kept it simple. I removed four of the opening windows from the frame that they closed into and stripped all the hardware from them then turned them through 90 degrees and made a 75 x 50 frame for them to work in and fitted them with top hang hinges for PVC-U windows from Screwfix. If I already had a workshop, i would probably have taken the glazing out and fitted it in a wooden frame with a routed slot. They work brilliantly! As you can see, the workshop is progressing.
Thanks again for the help
John

 

[Oaktree11]

here are a few pics...

 

[Fitzroy]

They look awesome, so much easier than making frames. They will let gajillions of light into the place also!