Making my own handles for robert sorby bowl gouge

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pops92

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HI first time on this forum.
I want to make my own handle for an RS bowl gouge but cannot find guidance on securing it in the handle. Is it just a matter of fitting a ferrule of suitable size and epoxy resin for the gouge.
Thank you in advance for assistance.
 
If you get a drill the same size as the bar, put the hole in before you turn the handle - this will keep it central. You'll probably find it takes very little to fix them, you might even get away with just knocking it in (especially if you have a half mil undersized bit). I fix mine with PU - but for this you need a sash cramp as the adhesive will push the steel out. However, it sets in minutes. Epoxy's fine though.
 
Never ever used adhesive myself and have had problems getting a handle off again once or twice, if you use a drill one size down for starters and then the actual size of tool shaft so that the drill does not cut oversize you should get a good enough fit to hold it without.

As Phil says drill your tool hole first and centre this on the tailstock centre to maximise chance of it running true to handle body.
Cut ferule spigot to suit firm push fit of ferule and use tailstock barrel to push it home square.
Either have your handle blank stock long enough to allow you to form the bulk of the back end in front of the chuck or turn your blank round when you have the ferule fitted and hold in chuck, a bit of masking tape on ferule stops jaws marking it. while you finish tail end at tailstock end.
 
If the wood of the handle is hard and you drill the hole exactly to size (or slightly undersize) you may discover the principle of air suspension - press the gouge in and see it bounce back. No fun, when the glue is drying, so I drill a very small (2 mm) hole from the surface of the handle inwards to the end of the hole in the handle, which lets air and glue escape.
 
Thanks for the information guys looks straight forward. I have some pieces of mahogany which are doing nothing much at the moment. Would this be ok for the handle?
 
Personally, I always like heavy handles, so my the only woodturning I do with tropical woods in handles. But locust (robinia pseudoacacia), yew or oak will be fine as well. I would think mahogani would be a little on the soft / light side, but why not try it? If it doesn't work fine, just make another handle.
 
Incidentally, if you use pipe be careful if you use a wheel type cutter not to wind it in too quickly - you'll taper the end badly and struggle to fit it. A straight 22mm connection cut in two will give you a slightly bigger ferrule if needed.
 
Thanks
It's my next project just finishing a earring stand,part of my learning curve. Going to purchase the bowl gouge without the handle,gives me more basic practice plus I can use it.
 
The way I do it is to drill the blank slightly undersize for the tool shaft size, then mount it between centres, then turn the ferrule section, then turn the handle to a comfortable shape then fit the ferrule.

Fitting the tool in the ferrule should be done by pushing it in to start and then hitting the back end of the handle with a wooden mallet. Inertia will make the tool work into the hole. This way there is no damage to the sharp end of the tool.
 
Just finished my first one everything went well apart from the drill hole being on the p**s. Will spit the wood and remake it with the drill hole inline with the handle.
Looks to me that getting the hole correct is the hardest part.
 

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If you use the tailstock of the lathe to drill you hole it should be inline.
 
Can see where I went wrong with my set now tomorrow should go a lot better. Being new to wood lathe work it's all a learning curve at the moment.
 
Ordered the book.
Here it is finished very pleased with my second attempt.
 

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