Making my own door frames

[kingkiki]

Hi all,

I am currently renovating and plan on making my own door frames from redwood, got some long lengths of 20mm x 150mm par I plan on doing just the frames with clapping strips. Any tips or how you would do it differently?

Thanks

 

[Dee J]

Only note I'd make is that 20mm is on the thin side. By the time you've rebated the hinges there'll be little left to screw into. Equally these linings will need good support from the wall structure to stop sag or distortion. Something a bit more robust would be my suggestion.

 

[johnnyb]

Your choice of method unless your sizing the openings depends a bit on what's already there. Sizing the frames to fit the doors your using is paramount and key to the whole thing going smoothly. 30 1/4 inch is the ideal size. Don't permanently fix the closing side until the doors fitted so any cross leggedness on the frame can be adjusted out by moving the frame.
It's normal to simply buy the frames(casings are rebated and 32mm thick, linings are 20mm with stops(and are very inferior)there being no advantage in making them(other than straightness and quality) but packing them whilst fixing will straighten and untwist them. Have you ever fitted doors /frames before? If not I'd read up on the method as I recall it took me a while(maybe years)before I got great results and had a good understanding(it's having knowledge of the entire process from the very first step I guess as the quality of the frame install largely dictates the final outcome)
One of my early jobs was on a private site where the previous "joiner" had only left 30 inch openings in the studwork(32 is normal) thus each upstairs opening with frame measured 28 or so! I had to pack each frame to fit a 27 inch door.

 

[kingkiki]

Thanks for the reply’s. Iv rebuilt all the internal walls with 4x2 so all the openings are square and level. It is that mainly for the better quality as most linings/casing are crap quality.

I have hung doors before yes not loads but a few and yes I know to leave the clapping side loose and just fix the hinge side to start, thank you for the info. I was considering tulip but that’s working out expensive.

 

[johnnyb]

Imho both par and linings/casings are fifths pine. So little difference in quality in reality.

 

[kingkiki]

Just been and fetched all the timber from Arnold lavers, very impressed with the quality incase people have not used them before. This was my first time but will defo be using them again.

 

[johnnyb]

Tell us a bit more... what did you decide on? How are you gonna proceed?

 

[sammy.se]

I recently build my own casings, it worked great.

I used 18mm thick pine. They were attached to 2x4s with 'no nails' and brads, sides and top, so no issues with them being too thin even after hinges, locks etc.
I trimmed the width them to account for the 2x4 plus plasterboard, so perfect width for the finished wall. I basically cut the casing to length, held it in the door opening and traced the wall. Therefore, perfect width.
I hung the door and only after the door was closing properly, even gaps, with the locks fitted, did I then fit the stops (10mm PAR from memory, standard from timber yards) around the door. No nail and brad nails again. That way, I have a perfectly closing door, no gaps, since this accounts for any twists by a couple mm here or there. Not noticable to the naked eye, and the door just glides closed perfectly.

 

[Rewby]

When using linings for jobs I make my own.Finished at 27mm.
I also fix it permanently then plasterboard goes up neat to the lining then skimmed.
Door is fitted after the plaster is dry and not before, hence fixed permanently.Fit the lining level, plumb and in wind and the door will go straight on.
Every carpenter will do jobs their own preferred way but personally i make linings 30 3/16 for 6"6 x 2"ft 6 doors.

 

[kingkiki]

I recently build my own casings, it worked great.

I used 18mm thick pine. They were attached to 2x4s with 'no nails' and brads, sides and top, so no issues with them being too thin even after hinges, locks etc.
I trimmed the width them to account for the 2x4 plus plasterboard, so perfect width for the finished wall. I basically cut the casing to length, held it in the door opening and traced the wall. Therefore, perfect width.
I hung the door and only after the door was closing properly, even gaps, with the locks fitted, did I then fit the stops (10mm PAR from memory, standard from timber yards) around the door. No nail and brad nails again. That way, I have a perfectly closing door, no gaps, since this accounts for any twists by a couple mm here or there. Not noticable to the naked eye, and the door just glides closed perfectly.

Thanks for this sammy, it’s basically my plan too, like you say you get it exactly how you want it, as Iv ordered long lengths with some waste I can cut any bad bits out. Bit more work but it’s a bungalow so only 4 doors to do. I also have the same stuff in 125mm for skirts and 70mm for arcs, hate the mdf stuff. Going be nice taking my time to do it all in real wood. Thanks