Making a jewelry box, a real frightener

[Paul Chapman]

The other point about this is that with most woodworking jobs there are usually several ways of doing it. It therefore seems pointless to me deliberately to choose a method which is clearly dangerous.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Ok so out of interest how would you lot cut an asymmetric cove with average home workshop kit?

Bob

Having been in Bob's 'shop on numerous occasions I'm well aware of how stuff gets done in it and that's perfectly fine...but not in my 'shop. I agree in some respects about guarding, but my view is that it's better to have it, rather than not. Part of the issue here is that there are no hand tools (or very few) in Bob's 'shop...not even a vice on the bench, so this sort of project has to be done by something with a 'tail'. Having said that, I agree with Paul C, that using hand tools and a modified plane is the way I'd go about it, but the Utube clip, especially the first pass where the timber is hovering in mid air whilst being passed over the saw blade is the stuff of nightmares - Rob

 

[devonwoody]

I suppose a dado set would have made it neater?

 

[Paul Chapman]

I suppose a dado set would have made it neater?

You're just stirring now, DW :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[AndyT]

Lots of sensible comments - but did anyone notice his failure to think about those F-clamps?

He was having to reach around all the tall, awkward stems to get to his unguarded blade, just because all four of his clamps were on upside down! What a tool.

 

[9fingers]

Like this?
Here is mine in the process of setting up

and with feather boards for an accurate cut and no room for pinkies to get in

Resulting T section lipping for veneered MDF boards

Excellent tools John but not suitable in the coving application.

Bob

 

[Digit]

You won't find a riving knife or a guard on my table saw. Both severely limit the range of tasks the machine can do.

The crown guard on my SIP is not on my SIP! As Bob says they can get in the way and obstruct vision, which is not good.
The riving knife is used when ripping long stuff otherwise is hung on the side of the cabinet.
Nearly all my cutting, other than ripping, is done using jigs of some kind, and without a riving knife as it protrudes above the blade making jigs correspondingly higher and heavier.
Pushing a largish sled keeps my hands well away from the blade.

Roy.

 

[studders]

it seems to me that the American way is that individuals take responsibility for their own actions.


Bob

Have to disagree with you there Bob. The Ryobi bloke who sued and got a substantial payout and others who have had huge payouts to cover the medical costs resultant from their own stupidity.
Bottom line for me is 'is it worth the risk for a Jewellery Box' ? Definitely not.

 

[ankledeep]

Well, for what my tuppence worth is worth, I recon the guy is a fruitcake, but hey , each to his own. Whilst new to here and a relative new comer to making aliving from wood, i have been round these machines for a long time.
And I have first hand knowlege of the damage they do to the human frame...(nope not me...a friend who now shakes hands left hand wise) So, I would NOT have done that..."floating that timber across the blade was asking for disaster, not to mention his fingers soooo close to that blade, It seems to me that all he needed was to make a strip for either side to go under the piece he was coveing and he would not have had to float it over the blade? and jigs for the rest?

I agree that H&s can go too far, and it is true that the riving knife on MY old but trusty (and accurate) coronet major spends a lot of time hanging around, as does the guard, only really seeing service for ripping, AND i use a full length fence, even for ripping. Only once did I have something kick back at me....hit me right in the chest, strewth, i thought i'd been shot, BUT, it was my own fault...forget a simple quick and obvious check to see that the fence was parallel to the blade.If its parallel to your mitre slot..its parallel to the blade..if thats not true then theres something fundamentally wrong somewhere. a lesson learned fortunately only at the cost of a bruise or two. But unless the blade is masked, as in troughing or rebateing i use jigs to hold short or difficult pieces and always a push stick, its not rocket science.

Talking about the coronet..I have FINALLY managed to successfully dust extract it, with a new crown guard (home made) side extensions to the undertable guards and some pieces of bristle strip (like the door draught excluder)...recon I've got 99% of the dust to go down the dust tube now..THAT was an interesting challenge..and I learned a bit about dust extraction and the different uses for hvlp and hplv . hint...hvlp doesnt work on circular saws...at least not unless you have a handy tornado as the sucking source.

 

[woodbloke]

You won't find a riving knife or a guard on my table saw. Both severely limit the range of tasks the machine can do.

The crown guard on my SIP is not on my SIP! As Bob says they can get in the way and obstruct vision, which is not good.
The riving knife is used when ripping long stuff otherwise is hung on the side of the cabinet.
Nearly all my cutting, other than ripping, is done using jigs of some kind, and without a riving knife as it protrudes above the blade making jigs correspondingly higher and heavier.
Pushing a largish sled keeps my hands well away from the blade.

Roy.

Some years ago when I was working in the trade, the often felt view (particularly from one maker) was that the guarding on a vast panel saw (on which all the accurate cutting was done) was a hinderance. However, elfn'safety regs meant that he had to 'like it and lump it'...guards stayed on, period. However, what was interesting is that it in no way prohibited him from making any machine stand on its head, he simply found ways of working round problems with guards in place. As a matter of interest, I never saw any circular saws of any denomination used with slots in the table, they were all large panel saws that were highly accurate (Altendorf's and the like) so it seems to me that the particular affection for the use of saws with slots in the table is one solely used in hobbiest 'shops and is more than likely driven by the type of cabinet saws popular in 'murrica. I could almost guarantee that if you went into any professional cabinet 'shop in this country, you wouldn't find a table saw with slots in where the blade is used unguarded.
What we do as hobbiest's though is an entirely different matter...which is why I'm more than happy with my new Charnwood W650 that doesn't have any slots. For the way I work...not necessary - Rob

 

[Digit]

As you say JW, for hobbyists. My saw is used for cutting joints and just about everything else that a TS can be made to do, but without the slot it would be much more difficult.

Roy.

 

[seaco]

OK so I would guard the blade and use push sticks but the idea is sound unfortunately alot of mainly Americans think it will never happen to them!

 

[devonwoody]

Tablesaws without the slot I class as dedicated saws and fair enough if it is a commercial application. Having the slot on my saw like Digit states means us hobbyists can do other tasks without using other dedicated machinery in addition. Remember space comes into it as well as finance. Also the machine industry likes it better if you need three different machines instead of my way with only one.

 

[BTR]

I have used a very similar method to make the exact same type off jewellery box and by no accounts am i a expert, i got very good results i just used push pads to push the wood over the blade carefully gradually increasing the blade height.
If you do use this method just make sure you know where your hands are at all times when passing over the blade, no loose bits or clothing when cutting and use push pads and sticks always but everyone has different methods to do similar work .

 

[monkeybiter]

The method is well established, even Norm has been seen to do it, although I think he did use two guides to make a channel, but the lack of height adjustment on the blade leaving the workpiece rocking freehand on top of the running blade is the real issue. It turns a common practise into an act of utter foolishness.

 

[jimi43]

The method is well established, even Norm has been seen to do it....

Remember...Norm has a broadcast disclaimer to prevent him from losing his fingers! :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[TheTiddles]

Oh my god, he ain't any better on the bandsaw!

To be fair, if you don't use guards on saws, you will probably get away with it hundreds of times, in fact, even all the time, but one day, you might make a mistake and then you'll be mutilated and it'll be your own fault. I hope it doesn't happen to him, but it looks very likely it will...

Aidan

 

[Benchwayze]

I have seen this method mentioned in books and magazines, but it isn't a procedure I would want to try; not unless I could fix up some kind of 'tunnel' over the blade; which wouldn't help when it comes to advancing the work over the blade. Gave me the shivers. #-o

Paul... You beat me to it re the ear defenders! :mrgreen:


John