making a box lock

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You might need a key longer than normal to operate the lock from the outside?
 
That looks cool..... are you making the fixing bands / metal straps too?
As usual, using straight end grain would help limit cupping on the block. I definitely want to see a write up when you do it 👍
 
I'm using the one with the round.ed end as it's a bit smaller than the others. I've already set it in a block of oak. the key will have to be long to pass through the 45mm door and maybe 20mm plus into the lock.

these horizontal mortice locks are beautifully sturdy. obviously hand filed and fitted. the springs are nicely weighted to. whenever I've made keys for these before the keymm flag has to 5be the perfect length to operat.e the sash even .5 mm and the sash doest shoot out fully. get it just right and they are like silk.
 

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Bear the insurance ramifications in mind if that is the only lock. Most policies won't cover doors secured solely with surface mounted locks (that includes night latches), the lock needs to be morticed into the door.
 
I've told her this till I'm blue in the face. some folk won't listen. I've done many doors that are replacements of toilet doors with rimlocks that are on the coal cellar. there insurance won't have it.
 
anyway she is having a shootbolt and her back door is non compliant having both a rimrock and a nightlatch! personally I can't stand excess metal so a lock and latch combined is my ideal.
 
I went to pick a key blank up today and told the chap I cut them with a thin disk on an angle grinder. he laughed and laughed saying use a file and a saw. literally took me five minutes to have a perfectly operating lock.(always wear safety glasses esp with thin disks )







I chopped lock the oak block using a forstner gouge. need to do the catch box next.
 

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reading the blurb for fitting the from the anvil lock they are just screwed to a rail and the metal straps cover the screws.
 
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