Long thin wedge

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KeenToLearn

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Hi,

Can anyone tell me please how to make a long thin wedge- haven't got the exact measurements in front of me, but about 10mm thick, 50cm long tapering down from about 10mm to nothing? I've had a go but because it is so thin, was aborted attempt! Its a sliver to insert in door surround to stop draught where a door has warped. Its been warped like that for years so unlikely to move again.
 
I would use a circular saw with guide rail (ie poor man's track saw), but I think a table saw with a taper jig would be a better choice if you have that option
 
Just never had to produce something this long and thin.

As a one off going to use v simple taper jig (had to watch a few videos for ideas), never had need of one before. Think he needed add his clamps closer to cut edge, thats all!

 
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In the last few days I've had to cut a dozen firrings for a flat roof - the wedges that sit on top of roof joists to create the slope for water runoff.
These were 3m long, 80mm at the fat end and taper to nothing.
That's close to your proportions.
I did it with a tracksaw.
My suggestion would be to temporarily fix the wood for the wedge to a wider piece to stiffen and support it while you cut - whatever method you use. Double sided tape, small drops of superglue or hot-melt. Something you can easily break apart and clean off after cutting.
 
I have a table saw and a track saw, can I ask what kind of taper jig do you might suggest please?

For a one off, a taper jig proper is overkill. A sacrificial sled might be easier.

Do you have a piece of mdf/plywood/chipboard that you can afford to cut 10mm off of one side? Borrow one of the doors off a kitchen cabinet in the utility room.

Secure your wedge blank to the chipboard at the angle needed to make it 10mm to zero over 500mm and run the edge of the sheet material against the fence of the table saw. It will cut a 10mm parallel strip off the sheet material and the wedge off the other piece. Make sure the weld holding the two pieces together is not in line with the saw blade.
 
I'd use a bandsaw, leave on slightly more meat than needed say 1mm above the line then hand plane the edge.
 
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I'd just hand plane it. Take your 10mm stick, mark 50 mm from the end but don't cut it off. Clamp on top of a sacrificial board so that what will be the thin end is at the end of your bench. Plane from the end back to your line until you have your wedge, and cut it off. A 5 minute job if you have a 10mm board already.
 
I have done similar to support a track for sliding wardrobe as floor wasn't level. I used an electric plane. Just cut a bit longer so you have something to clamp. Draw a line and plane away. For one 50cm length will be quick especially if you don't have access to a table saw or bandsaw
 
Handplane. Cut your workpiece a bit longer than the desired 500mm and countersink and screw in the fat end, to the edge of a board. Put the board in a vice and plane (from the screwed end). Saw off the screw hole end.
 
Cut the angle on the end of a longer piece of stock, Then you have some means of holding it whilst you hand saw, track saw etc.
Then cut the end off to produce the wedge.
 

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