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I don't quite understand the shape of the door from the photo, but I'm guessing that in plan it is L shaped. If it is hinged at the side of the cabinet then you will need some strength in the mitre joint. I would want to use solid wood at this point. And, as you state in one of your options - probably use a butt-joint instead.I used to make a range of display tables with veneered board, They were lipped with solid wood to protect the edges in use. The downside is that the solid timber had to be planed to bring the edge to the level of the veneer. I used to use a scraper plane and carefully count the shavings I took off, so as not to reach the surface beneath the veneer. It was always a bit of a gamble, as one didn't quite know how much of the 0.6 mm veneer had been removed, when sanded by the manufacturer.I later changed the way I made them, by lipping the board first and then veneering over the boards and lipping afterwards. This might be a better way to tackle your door, especially if you use a mitre.
I don't quite understand the shape of the door from the photo, but I'm guessing that in plan it is L shaped. If it is hinged at the side of the cabinet then you will need some strength in the mitre joint. I would want to use solid wood at this point. And, as you state in one of your options - probably use a butt-joint instead.
I used to make a range of display tables with veneered board, They were lipped with solid wood to protect the edges in use. The downside is that the solid timber had to be planed to bring the edge to the level of the veneer. I used to use a scraper plane and carefully count the shavings I took off, so as not to reach the surface beneath the veneer. It was always a bit of a gamble, as one didn't quite know how much of the 0.6 mm veneer had been removed, when sanded by the manufacturer.
I later changed the way I made them, by lipping the board first and then veneering over the boards and lipping afterwards. This might be a better way to tackle your door, especially if you use a mitre.
