Loctite 290

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SMALMALEKI

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Hi
I am not familiar with metalwork at all. The nearest I go is to use the tools made by others.
I need to replace a brass screw nut on my Lie Nielsen honing guide.
The advice from LN was to heat the old brass nut to break the bound and then use Loctite 290 to fix the new one in.
I can’t find this glue on any of the DIY shops on high street.
Does anybody know how to get hold of it?

Cheers
 
Make sure you buy from a reputable supplier some which is sold on places like ebay are not loctite but Chinese imitations.

I would have thought that any of the loctite thread lock liquids would also be careful as loctite also sell others which are designed for different applications
 
And if you don't want to take a blowlamp (or similar) to your precious LN tool, you can USUALLY break Loctitie bonds by immersing the part in BOILING water and - with gloves - gently try rotating the nut backwards and forwards. You may need the boiling water treatment 2 or 3 times, but aided by the tighten/loosen rotation force, I've found all Loctite bonds will give up in the end.

HTH

I second the point about which particular type (number) Loctite to use. Decent dealers usually have quite extensive Data Sheets from Loctite which you should use as a guide as to which particular Loctite to choose for this job. At it's simplest, the Loctite range of lockers are "glues", designed for a variety of "metal gluing" jobs, and just as you wouldn't, for example, expect woodworkers PVA to glue polythene sheet very successfully, neither should you expect "any old Loctite" to do "any old metal gluing" job! Hope that's not teaching granny to suck eggs.

And P.S. Those Loctite data sheets are also available online.
 
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I'm not sure of that number now........
but Screw Lock is what u need....low strength as n the name.....no heat needed to remove screws.....
it's used in watches to outboards plus all kinds of machines...
dont worry about the Chinese stuff for this job.....
ps sometimes available in Lidil.....lol.....
 
I think the difference between the numbers is in their strengths and between greens the diameter of the screws is the main factor.
 

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I'm not sure of that number now........
but Screw Lock is what u need....low strength as n the name.....no heat needed to remove screws.....
it's used in watches to outboards plus all kinds of machines...
dont worry about the Chinese stuff for this job.....
ps sometimes available in Lidil.....lol.....
I got the number from Google.
 
And if you don't want to take a blowlamp (or similar) to your precious LN tool, you can USUALLY break Loctitie bonds by immersing the part in BOILING water and - with gloves - gently try rotating the nut backwards and forwards. You may need the boiling water treatment 2 or 3 times, but aided by the tighten/loosen rotation force, I've found all Loctite bonds will give up in the end.

HTH

I second the point about which particular type (number) Loctite to use. Decent dealers usually have quite extensive Data Sheets from Loctite which you should use as a guide as to which particular Loctite to choose for this job. At it's simplest, the Loctite range of lockers are "glues", designed for a variety of "metal gluing" jobs, and just as you wouldn't, for example, expect woodworkers PVA to glue polythene sheet very successfully, neither should you expect "any old Loctite" to do "any old metal gluing" job! Hope that's not teaching granny to suck eggs.

And P.S. Those Loctite data sheets are also available online.
I searched for it and its very clear to see. Thank you.
 
Agreed. I forgot Arc Euro. Bought a couple op their brands when my local Loctite dealer ran out. Just as good as "the real thing".
 

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