im using a sled.its the router cutter that im looking for advice on . im whating to use replacement blade router cutter.but not used them before to see if they are any good.I've got a lot to fallen.the slabs is to wide to fit in my thicknesser.i do know what im doing iv been a joiner for 23 years.
live edge slab help
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Mr T
Established Member
The current thinking on health is that none of us get enpugh exercise, so I'm in favour of hand flattening 
.
This talk of flattening to an accuracy of 0.5 mm seems overkill to me, you might flatten the board one day and find it's moved the next day due to a change in the weather. Perhaps not with quarter sawn but certainly on crown cut. But I'm willing to be corrected on this.
Chris
.This talk of flattening to an accuracy of 0.5 mm seems overkill to me, you might flatten the board one day and find it's moved the next day due to a change in the weather. Perhaps not with quarter sawn but certainly on crown cut. But I'm willing to be corrected on this.
Chris
custard
Established Member
Mr T":13meg5zx said:
Hello Chris, in many cases I'd agree with you, a dining table or a console table doesn't need to be particularly flat, but the exception is a computer table.
If a computer keyboard rocks in use it'll drive the user round the bend! And here's the rub, desks and computer tables form the main part of the waney edged furniture commissions that I receive. I find there its some flatness tolerance with most keyboards because they tend to have pliant rubber bumpers in each corner. But it's not much, in the region of about 0.5mm is my estimation. From a practical perspective I find I can achieve that and, just as importantly, a well dried slab will remain stable within those tolerances so it's enough for computer use. These are all slabs I've flattened by hand,
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Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Wow, that leadwood is stunning
It looks like African blackwood to me, from that picture.
I must look it up
Thanks for showing Custard
It looks like African blackwood to me, from that picture.
I must look it up
Thanks for showing Custard
MattRoberts
Established Member
Which ideas didn't you like so far and why? Might help us offer alternatives
Ive had some great success with a router sled, and not even a very well made one! They are particularly great because you can make the tracks to fit over any size you want, from very long to very tall, and create perfect planed surfaces, especially useful across difficult grain, end grain and around other 'features'... i made a tall but short-ish set to flatten some very large and rough (to start with) rounds of yew. Went from chainsawn lumps in someones firewood stash to lovely coplanar surfaces which have taken a great finish, after some sanding...
Buckeye
Established Member
http://www.infinitytools.co.uk/router-b ... laner-bit/
Infinity's mega dado and planer bit is expensive but very useful.
Infinity's mega dado and planer bit is expensive but very useful.
I have the Wealdon Surface Trim linked at the top of the thread, but I also have the 3 wing one https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Surface_Trim__3_Wing_250.html which worked better for me, maybe down to the rounded corners on the flutes.
Just to respond to Custard's reply, there is no need to apply any downforce to the router provided you aren't attempting to hog out huge amounts per pass. I simply move the sled along the workpiece with the router clear off the end and then draw the router across the sled; it will let you feel what feed rate it is happy with, then repeat. With the 2" bit you can move pretty quickly.
Just to respond to Custard's reply, there is no need to apply any downforce to the router provided you aren't attempting to hog out huge amounts per pass. I simply move the sled along the workpiece with the router clear off the end and then draw the router across the sled; it will let you feel what feed rate it is happy with, then repeat. With the 2" bit you can move pretty quickly.
