Level vials in the chisel handle

[tibi]

Hello,

I had an idea if it would be beneficial to produce a chisel, that will have two perpendicular level vials in the handle. That way I would know that I have positioned the chisel in a way that is perfectly plumb without any additional tools.

It might be useful if I want to chop out wood at an angle (e.g. for making non laminated hand planes) . First I will draw a reference line on the wood. Then I will fix the wood in the vice, so that the reference line is plumb to the workbench / floor. Then I will position the chisel and read both perpendicular levels, so that the chisel is plumb in both axes and I will chop out the wood.

My question is if this feature could be useful for some other chisel tasks as well or it would be technically impossible /demanding (e.g. vials would break or will get off precision if the handle is beaten by the mallet, etc.). It might look ugly as well.

This is just an idea that might not be practical at all

 

[marcros]

Try it!!! You must be able to buy cheap levels or spirit level tubes and a bit of tape, so it would cost very little to give it a whirl. Even if it comes to nothing you would like to know first hand whether it works or not.

 

[TheTiddles]

I see your thinking, but relative to a guide block attached to the actual item you are chiselling, what’s the advantage? You are reliant on the workpiece and the chisel being aligned to a 3rd party (the planet). Whereas with a guide block clamped to the workpiece there’s no dependency, your workpiece can slip in the vice, you can do it upside down etc... they are still aligned

Aidan

 

[Inspector]

I think you might have issues with the bubble vials holding up to the vibration from the pounding. How did you plan to locate them so your hand isn't covering them and the mallet isn't smashing them? I believe you are adding more complexity to a simple and effective tool. If going to that much effort it might be better to machine cut the holes and square them up with a chisel.

Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you make the handle a bit wider and longer you could put a tranparent tube in it with a plumb bob inside for vertical. The plumb bob would align with the end of the tang.

 

[doctor Bob]

Get it patented, imagine all tools could have them, drills, hammers, screwdrivers, could go global.
Not just woodworking, fashion, I always wonder if my flat cap is straight, what I need is 2 spirit levels built in, Braces are they parellel and level, 2 spirit levels.... perfect. Am i going to spill my mug of tea going up the stairs, put 2 levels in the mug, sorted.

 

[Inspector]

Now Bob don't be mean by mocking him. tibi is new and has what he thinks is a good idea and was looking for feedback. He can't learn and understand if he doesn't have the reasons why.

Pete

 

[Ttrees]

Not unlike the jigs for saw filing...

But for a chisel I can't see how useful it might be,
I'd imagine some laser beep system might be of more use.

But for a portable mortising machine chisel rather than a handheld chisel.

From my experience with using a block like this


Maybe sound for dovetails, but if you don't want to undercut..
What good is level if your chisel starts to dive in the cut?

Surely level would be disregarded and a method referred to as "tenting" used.
i.e needing to use the chisel well off plumb.

 

[tibi]

I think you might have issues with the bubble vials holding up to the vibration from the pounding. How did you plan to locate them so your hand isn't covering them and the mallet isn't smashing them? I believe you are adding more complexity to a simple and effective tool. If going to that much effort it might be better to machine cut the holes and square them up with a chisel.

Pete

I could just drill a hole for a small circular vial in the top of the handle and make it recessed so that I do not smash it with mallet. Very easy installation. Would the wood split around it? I do not know.

If my vise or bench top is not parallel to the ground, it would be of little use, though.

 

[Jelly]

Would the wood split around it? I do not know.

If used long enough and/or hard enough it's inevitable that most wooden chisel handles begin to mushroom, I can see a hole drilled in the top accelerating the transition from mushrooming to splitting.

It would probably survive longer in a plastic handle, but how much longer is anyone's guess.

I would suggest you buy a cheap plastic handled chisel, some vials, a Forster bit and a tube of fast setting epoxy and give it a try...

I'm inclined to agree with the ney-sayers that this won't work quite like you expect, but until someone tries it, we won't actually know, and it might be that you're not quite as "vigorous and liberal in your application of force" as I am when mortising and the like...

 

[Andy Kev.]

It's an interesting concept for a chisel but as people have pointed out, there is the issue of bashing.

I recall somebody (in this forum, I think) successfully inserting a round vial into the top of an egg-beater drill handle, something which looked entirely plausible.

I think that with chiselling, you quickly get an idea of vertical and for really critical work, on the last few parings you can use a square block clamped onto the work to get bang on vertical.

 

[Jacob]

Hello,

I had an idea if it would be beneficial to produce a chisel, that will have two perpendicular level vials in the handle. That way I would know that I have positioned the chisel in a way that is perfectly plumb without any additional tools.

It might be useful if I want to chop out wood at an angle (e.g. for making non laminated hand planes) . First I will draw a reference line on the wood. Then I will fix the wood in the vice, so that the reference line is plumb to the workbench / floor. Then I will position the chisel and read both perpendicular levels, so that the chisel is plumb in both axes and I will chop out the wood.

My question is if this feature could be useful for some other chisel tasks as well or it would be technically impossible /demanding (e.g. vials would break or will get off precision if the handle is beaten by the mallet, etc.). It might look ugly as well.

This is just an idea that might not be practical at all

If you've got lines just work to the lines but keep checking by looking. Basically all woodwork is about working to lines and removing waste; everything on one side is waste.

 

[Bristol_Rob]

You could buy a cheap caravan level

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006G3QRVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_20f2FbG6Z2CJR