Lawnmower and garden tools storage

[brendan_bjg]

Hi,

I am keen to try a bit of a DIY project over the next month or so, and decided on building a small storage unit/shed for the garden lawnmower, and a few others tools. It only needs to be 3ft by 5ft, and 5ft tall (with a sloping roof to the back, for rainfall).

As the unit is going to be small enough, and in a sheltered area, I wanted to check on a few things:

1. Do I need to sheath and batten the walls, before cladding the outside? I was going to mount the cladding straight on to the studs of the frame. The walls will not be bearing any load.
2. I was planning to use 2 by 2 for the frame. Again, with size in mind, do you think that is fine?
3. Is OSB3 suitable for the floor and roof (along with shingles for the roof)?
4. The base of the shed will be set on a resin bound area, and obviously pressure treated timber used. I just wanted to check if there are any problems with that? Resin being very permeable, I assumed there wouldn't be water there for any period of time.

Anything pointers are very much welcome!

Thanks in advance, Brendan.

 

[Sheptonphil]

If it were me, I’d definately use non permeable membrane like F1 from Screwfix, batten then clad. The cladding will definitely be letting water through at some time and membrane and batten will allow it to dry out before the damp affect the inside. Membrane will keep the inside as dry as possible for tool storage. 2x2 frame Is ok, If you’re adding clad hinged doors, I’d use 3x2 for the two door jambs all planes timber.18mm OSB3 is perfectly good for the floor and roof. Any wood sat directly on the ground will be the subject of rot. Either put a single course of brick or perhaps composite decking support beams on the ground, they will never rot.

 

[brendan_bjg]

If it were me, I’d definately use non permeable membrane like F1 from Screwfix, batten then clad. The cladding will definitely be letting water through at some time and membrane and batten will allow it to dry out before the damp affect the inside. Membrane will keep the inside as dry as possible for tool storage. 2x2 frame Is ok, If you’re adding clad hinged doors, I’d use 3x2 for the two door jambs all planes timber.18mm OSB3 is perfectly good for the floor and roof. Any wood sat directly on the ground will be the subject of rot. Either put a single course of brick or perhaps composite decking support beams on the ground, they will never rot.

Thanks a lot for this; it's really helpful!

One last question, if you don't mind. The price of materials is insane at the minute; rough sawn treated timber is cheaper. Is this type of timber reliable/suitable for this type of project?

 

[akirk]

think about the quality of a shed you buy in B&Q etc. - which will a) now cost you a fortune and b) be to a lesser spec. than you have set out...
by upping the specification you should extend the life of your shed, but there are plenty of folks out there with sheds to a much lower specification, so don't overthink it if you feel that upping the spec. makes it too expensive.

We have put up a shed and a summerhouse this year - both effectively has the cladding nailed to the framework and that is it...

 

[Stevekane]

All the above is good advice but for myself I would be happy to use pressure treated sawn timber,,its only a small shed so shouldn't cost too much,,
Btw, I suspect its your plan anyway but make the sides and back on the ground and then fix the panels together,,like they make sheds!
Steve.

 

[Jameshow]

I've done just that used 2x2 timber 20mm cladding.

Cost about £200.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rc3LCYRLWgfJRyC8A
cheers James

 

[JSW]

Made this 5 and a half years ago, it's all reclaimed pallet wood, cleaned up to remove the worst of the crud, edges of timbers planed straight, and then glued and clamped into 'panels'
The panels were then backscrewed from the inside to a lightweight framework, inch and a half or so square, to imitate what you'd get with a bought shed.
Roof and base are the same, but with hindsight I'd have used OSB, mostly to save time.
The pallet wood was stained with Ronseal shed paint, Oak I think, can't recall, then treated to two coats of Wickes (Oak again) decking oil.

The only downside is the doors swell and contract a good inch or more in autumn/spring, when that happens I have a bespoke piece that gets screwed to the edge of the L/H door, move the keep for the Brenton bolt over to suit and all good, takes a couple of mins.

It's had zero maintenance since built, looks as good today as back then.

 

[Jameshow]

View attachment 116233
Made this 5 and a half years ago, it's all reclaimed pallet wood, cleaned up to remove the worst of the crud, edges of timbers planed straight, and then glued and clamped into 'panels'
The panels were then backscrewed from the inside to a lightweight framework, inch and a half or so square, to imitate what you'd get with a bought shed.
Roof and base are the same, but with hindsight I'd have used OSB, mostly to save time.
The pallet wood was stained with Ronseal shed paint, Oak I think, can't recall, then treated to two coats of Wickes (Oak again) decking oil.

The only downside is the doors swell and contract a good inch or more in autumn/spring, when that happens I have a bespoke piece that gets screwed to the edge of the L/H door, move the keep for the Brenton bolt over to suit and all good, takes a couple of mins.

It's had zero maintenance since built, looks as good today as back then.

Best putting the grain horizontal on doors save them expanding too much.

Cheers James