Benchwayze
Established Member
wellywood":pusq6i7f said:
+1 :wink:
Lathe Stand
- Thread starter SteveF
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+1 :wink:
-Matt-
Established Member
The weight issue is the reason I'm rebuilding mine. Making it out of heavier sections of angle with a larger footprint.
In the pic I posted you can see at the bottom of each A frame is a bit of tube welded upright and this is to slot a set of excercise weights over to provide more ballast.
Although since my workshop is in my parents garage (security reasons) and given what my father is like, his suggestion was simply a case of "And if that doesn't work we'll just bolt it to the wall and floor".
Should probably make a build/progress thread of the garage now I think about it.
In the pic I posted you can see at the bottom of each A frame is a bit of tube welded upright and this is to slot a set of excercise weights over to provide more ballast.
Although since my workshop is in my parents garage (security reasons) and given what my father is like, his suggestion was simply a case of "And if that doesn't work we'll just bolt it to the wall and floor".
Should probably make a build/progress thread of the garage now I think about it.
Benchwayze
Established Member
Like Pete, I am no expert on lathes. I do know, however, that vibration is undesirable; and the more massive the stand, whatever it's made of, the better. ISTR a lathe-stand design on-line, which included space for filling with sand or sand-bags, so it probably was important at the time.
Maybe motors and engineering have improved to the point where there is very little vibration coming from moving parts. I suppose the same is true for any woodwork machine. Especially big planers and table-saws. It's nice to hear the soft whine of an induction motor, sitting in the middle of a mass of cast iron; and you know, if you put your hand on the saw-table, (In a sensible place of course!) you'll feel next to nothing in the way of vibration. Naturally, we have to pay for that measure of quality!
Maybe motors and engineering have improved to the point where there is very little vibration coming from moving parts. I suppose the same is true for any woodwork machine. Especially big planers and table-saws. It's nice to hear the soft whine of an induction motor, sitting in the middle of a mass of cast iron; and you know, if you put your hand on the saw-table, (In a sensible place of course!) you'll feel next to nothing in the way of vibration. Naturally, we have to pay for that measure of quality!
Spindle
Established Member
Hi
I wouldn't get too hung up on the mass of the stand - yes more mass will dampen vibration more efficiently but it's a law of diminishing return. A sturdy stand built to suit will be more than adequate, (it's more important in my opinion to build in rigidity). I've added mass to my stand by the addition of two storage shelves where I keep my chucks and other heavy items. My lathe stand has never moved in use.
Regards Mick
I wouldn't get too hung up on the mass of the stand - yes more mass will dampen vibration more efficiently but it's a law of diminishing return. A sturdy stand built to suit will be more than adequate, (it's more important in my opinion to build in rigidity). I've added mass to my stand by the addition of two storage shelves where I keep my chucks and other heavy items. My lathe stand has never moved in use.
Regards Mick
Hi Dave
difficult to see in the picture but is your lathe set back from the front of the bench
do you need to lean over bench to get at it
i have a lathe
i have the tools
no stand and no idea how to use a lathe
i just want to get this right first time..if that is ever possible
i like to over engineer everything...generally causing back ache from using over-sized timbers
difficult to see in the picture but is your lathe set back from the front of the bench
do you need to lean over bench to get at it
i have a lathe
i have the tools
no stand and no idea how to use a lathe
i just want to get this right first time..if that is ever possible
i like to over engineer everything...generally causing back ache from using over-sized timbers
Spindle
Established Member
Hi Steve
When deciding on where to mount the lathe on the stand bear the following in mind:
The farther back from the front edge of the stand you mount the lathe the more likely you are to suffer interference between the lathe stand and tool handles.
If your lathe has a rotatable headstock, ensure large diameter work will clear the stand when the headstock is turned to the 90 degree position.
Regards Mick
When deciding on where to mount the lathe on the stand bear the following in mind:
The farther back from the front edge of the stand you mount the lathe the more likely you are to suffer interference between the lathe stand and tool handles.
If your lathe has a rotatable headstock, ensure large diameter work will clear the stand when the headstock is turned to the 90 degree position.
Regards Mick
Benchwayze
Established Member
Hi Mick.
My schooldays Mechanics aren't up to the task of explaining Mass v Rigidity, but I am sure there will be someone on the forum who can explain!
In the meantime, Mass and rigidity seem to me to achieve similar goals.
A massive workbench will dampen vibration. Because of its mass, it will also resist racking from the pressures we apply to it. My woodwork bench has a built in cupboard, which I added to it, simply for storage. This helps with its rigidity, but the bench was no less resistant to racking, before the addition, because the bench frame itself is made from massive sections of timber. So I'd sooner have the mass; and the added support of the nine-inch brick buttress inside my shop! :lol:
Cheers
My schooldays Mechanics aren't up to the task of explaining Mass v Rigidity, but I am sure there will be someone on the forum who can explain!
In the meantime, Mass and rigidity seem to me to achieve similar goals.
A massive workbench will dampen vibration. Because of its mass, it will also resist racking from the pressures we apply to it. My woodwork bench has a built in cupboard, which I added to it, simply for storage. This helps with its rigidity, but the bench was no less resistant to racking, before the addition, because the bench frame itself is made from massive sections of timber. So I'd sooner have the mass; and the added support of the nine-inch brick buttress inside my shop! :lol:
Cheers
Spindle
Established Member
Hi John
When I say mass, think weight. There are bench designs that incorporate drawers full of sand or concrete blocks to increase the mass of the bench. There is a limit to how much mass is required to dampen vibration from the lathe, it will be dependant on the maximum out of balance load that is turned - any additional mass will have no beneficial effect.
Rigidity comes into play by ensuring the mass of the bench is securely coupled to the lathe - in order for the mass of the bench to be able to dampen the lathe vibration it has to be rigidly coupled to the lathe. If the lathe can flex / move without moving the mass of the bench then damping in that direction will be lost.
Regards Mick
When I say mass, think weight. There are bench designs that incorporate drawers full of sand or concrete blocks to increase the mass of the bench. There is a limit to how much mass is required to dampen vibration from the lathe, it will be dependant on the maximum out of balance load that is turned - any additional mass will have no beneficial effect.
Rigidity comes into play by ensuring the mass of the bench is securely coupled to the lathe - in order for the mass of the bench to be able to dampen the lathe vibration it has to be rigidly coupled to the lathe. If the lathe can flex / move without moving the mass of the bench then damping in that direction will be lost.
Regards Mick
Benchwayze
Established Member
Spindle":dfm20r9h said:
Ahh! Yup!
Gotcha. The light came on! :idea:
Cheers.
Hello Steve
Here's another pic ...
There are bits of 4 x 2 under the 'deck', where the fixings go and the whole thing is bolted through them ( with allthread) It doesn't show very clearly that the legs are wider at the bottom than the top.
Mick is right about setting it as far forward as you need to swivel the head, like this ...
Don't mount the lathe any further forward than you need to, or the whole assembly will become less stable.
Bear in mind that you may want to turn a piece outboard on a faceplate, which will project less than a chuck.
I fixed the bottom front rail high enough to get my feet under it. This lets you get a bit closer to the work.
The consensus seems to be that the axis of the chuck should be about the height of your elbow. If you build it two or three inches below that, you can pack it with timber to get it right and allow for fitting a bigger lathe later on.
Keith Rowley's book, Woodturning: a foundation course would be useful if you're starting out on the slope.
Cheers
Dave
Here's another pic ...
There are bits of 4 x 2 under the 'deck', where the fixings go and the whole thing is bolted through them ( with allthread) It doesn't show very clearly that the legs are wider at the bottom than the top.
Mick is right about setting it as far forward as you need to swivel the head, like this ...
Don't mount the lathe any further forward than you need to, or the whole assembly will become less stable.
Bear in mind that you may want to turn a piece outboard on a faceplate, which will project less than a chuck.
I fixed the bottom front rail high enough to get my feet under it. This lets you get a bit closer to the work.
The consensus seems to be that the axis of the chuck should be about the height of your elbow. If you build it two or three inches below that, you can pack it with timber to get it right and allow for fitting a bigger lathe later on.
Keith Rowley's book, Woodturning: a foundation course would be useful if you're starting out on the slope.
Cheers
Dave
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