Lathe Control Box layout

[OldWood]

I passed a comment on Blisters 'Lathe for Sale' thread about the layout of the Control Box, and am introducing the subject here to get feedback from other users.

I've a Wadkins BZL - and I also did a similar upgrade on a Graduate. On both panels I used lighting pushbutton switches with the switches in the same sequence as those shown in a photo on Blister's thread - that is, going from the right :- 'Start/Stop' ; 'Forward/Reverse' ; 'Speed Control' knob.

On older lathes the contactor was always (there could be exceptions I suppose) at low hand height on the motor pedestal, so it is an easy mod. just to put the new panel there too.

The problem I have found is that on occasion instead of pressing the 'Start/Stop' button to switch the machine off, I press the one next to it - the motor slows as expected but then comes back up in reverse. Now regardless of what I or any other operator does in terms of not looking at the buttons (or come to that toggle switches), this is bad design; the opportunity for error is high.

Blister says he has never done this therefore I am in error. Maybe but I will be rebuilding both the panels I have made as this is not only a perceived hazard but one actually taking place.

Any comments

OW

 

[Paul.J]

I have accidently done this when i had my Hegner lathe,as both toggle switches are side by side.I even put a red marker top on the forward one so i wouldn't do this but still managed to flick the reverse one.
Luckily i noticed and no harm was done :shock:
But it was easily done.
Now on the Vicmarc the reverse switch is under a plastic lid/guard so it can't be easily switched over.

 

[cambournepete]

On my Wivamac the switches are different types.
A toggle for the forward/reverse and a twist for the on/off - see here.
It works well and you don't need to be able to see it to operate it.

 

[CHJ]

On my Wivamac the switches are different types.
A toggle for the forward/reverse and a twist for the on/off - see here.
It works well and you don't need to be able to see it to operate it.

A good compromise on the switch selection definition but not so intuitive for emergency stop purposes, or does the machine have a separate "PUSH to STOP" button positioned elsewhere Pete.

 

[wizer]

This is the control box on the BRM.

The stop start buttons are tiny, about 10mm max diameter. You are forced to look at it when turning on, off or changing speed. The Woodfast (not the one Blister is selling) had a positive on switch that I could find without looking and a big mushroom stop switch that I could reach with my knee. The BRM does have a mushroom stop switch but it's in the wrong place. I'm going to wire in another one down below that I can kick. The forward and reverse switch is on the side, so nice and easy to find and flip that one.

But the lathe does turn wood.

 

[dannykaye]

could you arrange that the start/stop switch disables the reverse switch (possibly by removing its power feed) so that you can only change direction when stopped?

 

[CHJ]

Looks like Siverdrive just took the easy option of using the inverter programming/control buttons and used them as a front panel.

I use the NVR Start/Stop buttons (linked in with Shop emergency Stop buttons) to switch On and Off, with a separate illuminated (and shielded) push action switch for direction control in a totally different location.

 

[cambournepete]

On my Wivamac the switches are different types.
A toggle for the forward/reverse and a twist for the on/off - see here.
It works well and you don't need to be able to see it to operate it.

A good compromise on the switch selection definition but not so intuitive for emergency stop purposes, or does the machine have a separate "PUSH to STOP" button positioned elsewhere Pete.

Oh yes - the electronics box has an NVR switch and an emergency stop switch - see here(mine looks the same, just longer ).

 

[John. B]

As above,
mine has an on/off push button with emergency stop cover.
a dial for variable speed, and over that, the forward and reverse switch.
At the top a digi speed redout and the door on the left for changing the range.
Can't really switch anything on/off in/out by mistake :wink: :roll:

John. B

 

[duncanh]

When I build the remote box for my DVR I used a layout with the start button on the side so it doesn't get accidentally pressed by either me or something falling against it. The stop is larger and the up and down buttons are obvious.

I hardly ever use reverse so that's left on the original control box.



The lathe control panel also has program buttons but they are only really useful when you can see the display, so I haven't put those on my remote.

Whilst I was at it I built in extension sockets so I can daisy chain additional full control boxes or just stop boxes in the future.

Duncan