Latest thing you have printed / machined / cut

[MorrisWoodman12]

View attachment 181794

Print a case for my tap & die set.
I had to split each component in two just so it would fit on the printer bed.

Looks good.
What adhesive did you use to glue the two halves together?
Martin

 

[kinverkid]

View attachment 181794

Print a case for my tap & die set.
I had to split each component in two just so it would fit on the printer bed.

Because of my tap/die and drill bits drawers set-up I went for a different approach.

I also printed a die holder I can use when re-cutting a thread (I think there must be a proper term for cleaning up an existing thread).

 

[Britman]

Looks good.
What adhesive did you use to glue the two halves together?
Martin

Just CA glue.

 

[steve355]

What will be a “next gen” no 14 round plane in resin. I’m doing the sole separately in a different resin. It’s getting complicated!

 

[mudman]

In another thread, not so far away about fixing a pillar drill, I ended up making my own version of the collar that supports the depth stop.
The mist recent version is below. I've used heat set inserts for the post and M5 bolts and I think it works rather well.

 

[Gadjet]

They layers is something I hadn't even considered mainly because I didn't think through how people might use them. The only thought was as a stop when plaining something

I haven't put it under any kind of stress test, what was you doing when they broken? Just curious as to the type of load you had on them.

Just design it with a 10mm/12mm threaded hole down the centre with a countersunk hole and screw in a machine screw or similar to give it some shear strength.

 

[supertom44]

Just design it with a 10mm/12mm threaded hole down the centre with a countersunk hole and screw in a machine screw or similar to give it some shear strength.

I printed a router housing that uses this technique, it's held up really well. Never thought of using it on a smaller scale.

 

[kinverkid]

After searching for replacement stones of the same dimensions as the original I decided I may as well design my version of a planer blade honing stone holder using larger 10mm x 10mm ruby-type stones. It was originally going to hold a ruby and a green stone because that's what I had at hand but I dropped the ruby stone while fitting it, shattering it, so I ordered two more of the same. The original was not a tool I used that often, but part way through a planing/thicknessing session, I don't think it does any harm to give the blades a quick hone-in-situ part way through.

 

[Britman]

Bench cookie things. I used furniture pads as none slip pads. I'm going to see if I can sell these too. I have designed a holder for them. Worth a punt right?

 

[Britman]

Another solution to a problem that doesn't exist

I noticed the other day while using my Toughbuilt pouch on a regular belt that after a while is started to dig in a bit. so came up with this dodad to help spread the load over a wider area.

 

[supertom44]

I saw this tablet stand and thought it was a cool idea, so I adapted (copied) it for cnc.
https://www.printables.com/model/208193-ipad-tablet-drawing-stand

I cut the front lips off as my hand was catching on them and also made it using 8mm tubing so I didn't have to change bit in the cnc.

Going to try it out for a while and might make another out of some hardwood if it works well.

 

[Britman]

I saw this tablet stand and thought it was a cool idea, so I adapted (copied) it for cnc.
https://www.printables.com/model/208193-ipad-tablet-drawing-stand

I cut the front lips off as my hand was catching on them and also made it using 8mm tubing so I didn't have to change bit in the cnc.

Going to try it out for a while and might make another out of some hardwood if it works well.
View attachment 185281View attachment 185280View attachment 185279

Does that have multiple angles?

 

[supertom44]

Does that have multiple angles?

No this one doesn’t, it’s primary use is for sketching so for me I don’t need multiple angles.

 

[fezman]

This one reminds me of the first post i did on this thread. That was for a Bosch blower.
This is a vac nozzle. I already have the (supplied with the GAS35L) thin nozzle and the wide sweeper one. What I wanted was one that was somewhere in the middle.

Now before we get to the printed item, I had noticed @supertom44 and others saying they were using https://www.onshape.com/en/ for design. Now up until present I had been using fusion 360, but I have to say I found it a bit difficult to remember some of the basics. So this weekend, i gave onshape a go. I measured the outer diameters of the Bosch vac tube, and built a 1" connector for that, and did a test print. It worked a treat.

I then set about designing the 100mm wide nozzle I wanted. I found doing this in onshape (with a few YT tutorials) very simple. I used the 1" connector, then added another loft for about another 1", then added the wide 100mm mouth and completed the lofts.

Another thing that springs to mind here is the number of people that advise to dry filament, keep it vacuum packed, do this, do that etc. This print is using PLA-CF, that has been hanging out of the back of my X1C for about a month, in a single brick skin/ plywood lined garage. I think I am happy with the finished article.

If anyone wants the stl files, just drop me a line.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

@fezman
That looks a wonderfully smooth print from your X1C. I've just bought a P1S but yet to finish getting it going. I've just about completed the job for which I have a deadline so this week hopefully..............

Also interested that you've been using onshape as I'm thinking of trying something other than Designspark Mechanical as it produces too many stl files that I have to 'mend'. I've tried fusion 360 but, like you, found it too difficult. I may try again because I like being able to draw 2D and 3D items in the same package.
Have fun
Martin

 

[Gerry]

I too use Onshape and found it fairly easy to pick up as you go.

Gerry

 

[supertom44]

View attachment 173528 View attachment 173529
I've been designing a series of French cleat workshop storage solutions. All 3mm mdf/ply based, the same width, with their own French cleat. This allows me to stack them on each other when appropriate. It seems to be solving the main grip I have with French cleat storage, in that it's very flexible in terms of where you put things, but it's not very efficient if you can only have 1 "layer" on the wall.

How did you get on with these?
I really like the idea of being able to stack them.

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

Honestly I got bored and moved on. Actually that's probably not true. I discovered that the 3mm mdf I was using was too weak (so easy to break just by brushing past in the wrong direction) and too light to rely on the weight for security. Picking up something would often result in a small catch/friction, which would jump the unit out of the cleats and scatter itself and it's remaining contents all over the floor.

Obviously I can solve the weakness with 3mm ply, but that increases the price and I had in mind to build up a sufficient library of these and start selling them flatpack on Etsy (etc). That may or may not be an issue . The weight issue can be solved in a variety of ways, I just haven't been motivated to look into it.

I need to find the motivation again because I have need for more units for myself, so hopefully I'll find myself staring at Illustrator again at some point.

 

[fezman]

I've been asked for the stl files above, but then realised I can share this via onshape.
Here is a view link - so you can access and save a copy for those interested.
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/b...1d8b37ec59d7270c8e/e/41178c1cde744811db47b44b

 

[Britman]

I've been asked for the stl files above, but then realised I can share this via onshape.
Here is a view link - so you can access and save a copy for those interested.
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/b...1d8b37ec59d7270c8e/e/41178c1cde744811db47b44b

I did not know you could do that.