Large segmented blank for a Tondo frame

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If you tack around the periphery (around the inside if you're trying to minimise the outer diameter) you don't need pressure at all, and so long as the board you're sticking it to is flat, the ring will be flat. You only need to press it down if you've glued under it, which isn't usually the best way anyway. A decent gun and decent quality glue wouldn't be a problem over something that size unless you were working in the freezing cold.
 
If it were me I would mount it to plywood, faced flat and then screw the front of the ring to the plywood in the waste. Turn the back flat along with any reliefs for the glass/picture or shadow lines. Then take it off and cut a very shallow relief in the plywood to fit and centre the back of the frame into and screw it on. A bit like a jam chuck. Then turn the front to the profile you want.

Pete
 
I made 12 16" rings like this, only they were solid Oak, clock frames for a merchant bank, I still have one in the workshop. I mounted them on a peice of MDF with screws, easy to remove and secure for turning. They were not very succesful though, (some interior designer specified them) they warped and split (some of them) mine stayed solid enough though,
 
After extensive rummaging in my piles, I now have 18mm chipboard, but no ply.

Would that do ?

I'll admit that although I have a wizz bang machine, I'm very much at the bottom of the learning curve. I did buy the machine specifically to make these tondo frames.
 
I guess the challenge will be for the strength of hold between the screws attaching the faceplate and the chipboard. I think I'd try it, but keep checking that connection intermittently? Use good screws with plenty of hold, take careful cuts avoiding hits on the corners as much as possible.
I don't know the strength of a screw into chipboard compared to ply, so again my advice is of limited use!
How big is the faceplate? You said it's not big.
 
I was thinking of making a sandwich in the middle with the chipboard as the cheese. I have a small piece of ply to receive the pointy end of the screws coming from the faceplate, which from memory is about 100-150mm ø

Eventually, I'll make a longworth chuck. But I'll wait with that for a little while.
 
If you only have chipboard, I’d consider it a wise investment to buy some ply for the purpose, it’s a bit unnerving when things go out of balance on a lathe and it starts walking across the floor
 
If you only have chipboard, I’d consider it a wise investment to buy some ply for the purpose, it’s a bit unnerving when things go out of balance on a lathe and it starts walking across the floor
Funny that you should say that, as it wants to go walkies at over 500rpm. It's round now and I'll be finishing turning it tomorrow.

Next time I'll get some ply for sure.
 
Well, I survived and got it up to 400rpm in the end.

I put the damned dominoes to near the edge and turned through them. I'll have to dig them out and put some spruce in there, then I can carve it.

Next time I'll use a single spruce domino in the centre of the mitre.

Thanks for all your advice.

IMG_0428.JPG
 
as an add on.....what do u need for bigger clocks.....
I have a 1.25mclock face thats perfect but needs a mechanismn.....
I'm worried that those little elec things wont be man enough for the hands....
the hands are madefrom thin painted steel aroun .30mm....
have had a look on the Bay of Fleas for HD but no luck....
just asking.....
 
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