Part 2
The lower blade guide is a simple arrangement with two wooden rubbing blocks. It is made from alloy with knobs machined from unprotected mild steel. These needed a good clean with scotchbrite and a soak in rust converter followed by light oil.
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The bearings were still good so no need to remove the wheels.
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Next step was to remove the glaze of compacted dust and rust from the tyres. This was done by hand with fine steel wool.
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Reassemble the machine and fit a new blade. Tuff supplied a good general purpose blade in just a few days. 90 1/2" x 1/2" 6-10 tpi varitooth in M42 steel. Following the instructions, the blade tension and tracking is adjusted to run the teeth of the blade just off the edge of the flat tyres.
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Ran the saw up with guards in place minus the table to check tracking. All looks good but the motor is very noisy when running. Perfectly smooth and quiet when turned by hand. The noise suggested a problem so I removed and stripped the motor - a Leroy Somer unit from 1993 (1100W (1.5hp) input 740W (1hp) output with a 20uF 400V rated start run capacitor) wrongly guessing that there might be a centrifugal switch inside causing the the noise.
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Take note of the position and orientation of the intermediate bracket when you remove it from the motor to save having to figure it out on refit. Two corners are chamfered to clear the frame of the saw so there is only one correct way to fit.
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Removing the plastic fan was a challenge. I guessed that it would be a push fit on a splined shaft (correct) but there was nowhere to get a lever or puller into the job. In the end I just clamped the main spindle in softjaws and twisted / pulled the fan until the plastic gave and the thing came off.
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Inside of the fan
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End of part 2
