Kity 419 and a long shot
- Thread starter DTB1985
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DTB1985
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Just as a little update.
I got the knife and crown guard from Axminster. Its not an exact fit but the bolt slot lines up and a little bit of grinding will make it fit perfectly.
That said I think I'm missing a spacer as the knife isn't in line with the blade. I've measured and need at 5mm spacer which I was thinking of making from metal but now maybe plastic as it will be easier to work with and perform exactly the same function. Really depends what 5mm material I mange to acquire first. Once I've done this the knife should fit perfectly.
My only other "doh" moment is that I bought the two components but not the bolt and handle that joint them together lol. Was thinking of just using a bolt and nut but the hole has a special cutout. Could still do that but needed an excuse to visit an Axminster store anyway as I never been.
DTB.
I got the knife and crown guard from Axminster. Its not an exact fit but the bolt slot lines up and a little bit of grinding will make it fit perfectly.
That said I think I'm missing a spacer as the knife isn't in line with the blade. I've measured and need at 5mm spacer which I was thinking of making from metal but now maybe plastic as it will be easier to work with and perform exactly the same function. Really depends what 5mm material I mange to acquire first. Once I've done this the knife should fit perfectly.
My only other "doh" moment is that I bought the two components but not the bolt and handle that joint them together lol. Was thinking of just using a bolt and nut but the hole has a special cutout. Could still do that but needed an excuse to visit an Axminster store anyway as I never been.
DTB.
Eric The Viking
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There is a spacer block, roughly 5mm, so you're right.
Theoretically you ought to be able to use it unchanged if you fit a thicker (or thinner) blade, as it is supposed to bring the "inner" side of the riving knife to the same position as that of the saw plate (minus, say 0.2mm). The teeth overhang the riving knife track slightly each side.
I think, but defer to the better educated round 'ere, that ligning the RK up with the saw plate exactly is good enough for the task, in which case one correct spacer should do all RKs and saw blades, although the RK thickness should change with saw blade thickness. The Kity Rafezetter now has came to me with a really chunky (and annoyingly slightly bent!) RK, which I think was home made, albeit pretty well. It was too thick for a Freud thin-kerf blade, but fitted the thicker blade it had; the knife for a TS200 was fine and fitted with no alterations.
When you have the right alignment, you have the option of taking the washer stack off again, and using a bit of superglue and a separate nut+bolt* to glue them into one lump, so there's a lot less faffing about if you need to remove/replace the riving knife later.
I also use kitchen foil and/or the aluminium that ready-meal containers are made from, and sometimes drinks cans, as shims - gives you good fine control. There's some kitchen foil squaring up the riser block on my morticer at the moment.
Given access is awkward through the throat plate, I've often thought it would have been nicer to have lugs rather than threaded holes... I guess you might tack-weld studs in place, but it's all getting a bit involved really.
E.
*to pinch them up while they glue.
PS: one of the big annoyances, for me with perfectionist tendencies, was that the support for the RK is rather sloppily aligned with the datum plate on which the saw's arbour and motor are mounted. I couldn't easily sort out the alignment of the riving knife, as the parallelism of its support (it's a "Z" shaped bit of plate) was too hard to measure well.
Rafezetter and I reassembled the 419 together, and it seemed to be good enough (he says it's fine anyway!), but it's a weakness in both the 419 and the oldest TS200 designs. If I'd had time I'd have replaced the "Z-bent" mounting plate with one or two flat pieces of silver steel and a spacer block - it would be stronger as well as straighter.
Theoretically you ought to be able to use it unchanged if you fit a thicker (or thinner) blade, as it is supposed to bring the "inner" side of the riving knife to the same position as that of the saw plate (minus, say 0.2mm). The teeth overhang the riving knife track slightly each side.
I think, but defer to the better educated round 'ere, that ligning the RK up with the saw plate exactly is good enough for the task, in which case one correct spacer should do all RKs and saw blades, although the RK thickness should change with saw blade thickness. The Kity Rafezetter now has came to me with a really chunky (and annoyingly slightly bent!) RK, which I think was home made, albeit pretty well. It was too thick for a Freud thin-kerf blade, but fitted the thicker blade it had; the knife for a TS200 was fine and fitted with no alterations.
When you have the right alignment, you have the option of taking the washer stack off again, and using a bit of superglue and a separate nut+bolt* to glue them into one lump, so there's a lot less faffing about if you need to remove/replace the riving knife later.
I also use kitchen foil and/or the aluminium that ready-meal containers are made from, and sometimes drinks cans, as shims - gives you good fine control. There's some kitchen foil squaring up the riser block on my morticer at the moment.
Given access is awkward through the throat plate, I've often thought it would have been nicer to have lugs rather than threaded holes... I guess you might tack-weld studs in place, but it's all getting a bit involved really.
E.
*to pinch them up while they glue.
PS: one of the big annoyances, for me with perfectionist tendencies, was that the support for the RK is rather sloppily aligned with the datum plate on which the saw's arbour and motor are mounted. I couldn't easily sort out the alignment of the riving knife, as the parallelism of its support (it's a "Z" shaped bit of plate) was too hard to measure well.
Rafezetter and I reassembled the 419 together, and it seemed to be good enough (he says it's fine anyway!), but it's a weakness in both the 419 and the oldest TS200 designs. If I'd had time I'd have replaced the "Z-bent" mounting plate with one or two flat pieces of silver steel and a spacer block - it would be stronger as well as straighter.
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