Kity 1637 Planer/ Thicknesser stripdown.

[Bradley]

Hi, this is my 1st post so be gentle. I'm just starting out with woodworking and I've bought a Kity 1637 planer that needs a little work to bring it up to scratch. I want to strip it back to give it a good clean and lubrication and to clean up the cutter block that has been left to go a bit rusty while it's been sat unused. I'm after any helpful advice from anyone who may have undertaken something similar and if there is anything specific to this machine that I should look out for. Do they need to come apart in any particular order?

Any help would be greatfully received.

Thanks, Rob.

 

[heronviewer]

Have you looked on Youtube ? There are videos there of "Kity thicknesser planer" and they are probably similar in build to the 1637.

 

[Bradley]

Have you looked on Youtube ? There are videos there of "Kity thicknesser planer" and they are probably similar in build to the 1637.

I'll take a look, thanks.

 

[Chippymint]

I have it's bigger brother the 638 they are very similar. I'm not sure why you are thinking this needs to be fully stripped and rebuilt. Unless you can find a particular problem I would have thought a thorough check of everything would be a good way to go and deal with issues that come along.

A few ideas come to mind. Firstly make sure the beds are not cracked or distorted as if they are, and given they are an alloy, you should deal with this first as if you can't remedy the fault you could be looking to get a another machine as these parts are extremely rare if not impossible to replace. The bed adjusters are robust and would benefit from cleaning, freeing off and lubrication. After this set up the beds for flatness (look at The Wood Whispers YouTube video for setting up your Planner for guidance).

Remove the side casing and the gearing system will appear. Check, clean and lubricate the gears and chain. There are metal and plastic gears so be thourough in checking them for wear as these are the weak links in the system. Adjust the chain tension. This is the time to check the bearings for play and rumble in knife block - don't remove this if there is no reason too as it's a tricky job. Remove the knives and clean and free off the knife adjusters - a drop of oil on the adjusting Allen keys is sufficient.

Check the main motor drive belt and replace if necessary and adjust its tension. Whilst the belt is off check the motor bearings and it turns smoothly.

The thicknesser table has a central column and there is a handwheel shaft and gears to operate it. These may need a thorough decrease and clean then lubricate. Make sure it's easy to operate through-out its travel. Clean and polish the bed.

The above are the key areas to get right and unless there is a fault to deal with, all you need to do is inspect and service the components.

Otherthan cosmetics, make sure the electrics function correctly and the machine operates properly.

Finally install a new set of knives and you should be good to go.

Good luck

 

[Bradley]

I have it's bigger brother the 638 they are very similar. I'm not sure why you are thinking this needs to be fully stripped and rebuilt. Unless you can find a particular problem I would have thought a thorough check of everything would be a good way to go and deal with issues that come along.

A few ideas come to mind. Firstly make sure the beds are not cracked or distorted as if they are, and given they are an alloy, you should deal with this first as if you can't remedy the fault you could be looking to get a another machine as these parts are extremely rare if not impossible to replace. The bed adjusters are robust and would benefit from cleaning, freeing off and lubrication. After this set up the beds for flatness (look at The Wood Whispers YouTube video for setting up your Planner for guidance).

Remove the side casing and the gearing system will appear. Check, clean and lubricate the gears and chain. There are metal and plastic gears so be thourough in checking them for wear as these are the weak links in the system. Adjust the chain tension. This is the time to check the bearings for play and rumble in knife block - don't remove this if there is no reason too as it's a tricky job. Remove the knives and clean and free off the knife adjusters - a drop of oil on the adjusting Allen keys is sufficient.

Check the main motor drive belt and replace if necessary and adjust its tension. Whilst the belt is off check the motor bearings and it turns smoothly.

The thicknesser table has a central column and there is a handwheel shaft and gears to operate it. These may need a thorough decrease and clean then lubricate. Make sure it's easy to operate through-out its travel. Clean and polish the bed.

The above are the key areas to get right and unless there is a fault to deal with, all you need to do is inspect and service the components.

Otherthan cosmetics, make sure the electrics function correctly and the machine operates properly.

Finally install a new set of knives and you should be good to go.

Good luck

Good morning,

The machine was in pretty poor condition cosmetically so over the last 2 days I have removed all moving parts except the motor, cleaned and lubricated all the drivechain and belts. The feed roller, cutter block and exit roller we all in poor condition with quite a bit of surface rust, so they've had a good clean up, new knives are still to be ordered but will be today. Question regarding the bushings for the feed and exit rollers, do they require a little grease in there or light oil perhaps? I need to get a new belt to drive the cutter block as the one on it was only 3mm wide and not nearly adequate. The Thicknesser table operation was a 2 handed affair but is now a 2 finger pinch effort, very happy with that result. I've done some reading up on cleaning and leveling out the tables so I have ordered some bits and pieces to complete those tasks. I'm considering putting some sound deadening on the inside of the metal paneling at the bottom of the machine, is this worth doing? I'm also going to make up some box sections to fit braked castors so the machine can be moved around my tight workshop. All in all I'm happy with the work I've completed on the machine so far, hopefully I'll have it running today.

Thanks.

 

[Chippymint]

Sounds like your making progress.

A good rotary brass wire brush on a drill should sort out the surface rust. Ref the in and out feed spindles. Do not put lube on the surfaces where the wood will pass - when in use they will be self cleaning. Put high melting point low viscosity oil or grease on the end running surfaces and a coating on the springs.
All these machine types are noisy. Be carefull of placing anything on the inner walls. Thin draft excluded can work in stopping panel vibration if placed between the mating surfaces or insulation tape. Dampening panels are fine on the exterior. The main noise comes from the cutting action and is amplified when connected to an effective extractor - not much you can do about this.

One point I did not mention is the anti kickback mechanism. It's extremely effective. Make sure all Keys move freely - don't use oil just WD40 as oil can drip on the wood.

I'm not trying to be funny but don't underestimate the setting up procedure if your not experienced. The video I mentioned earlier is great and if his process is followed you should be set up for a long time.

Ps I've fitted mine with a Wixey digital height gauge - brilliant. This makes it's use that much better to use, especially as the table handle ratio is 1.5mm per revolution which you have to get your head around!

 

[Bradley]

Sounds like your making progress.

A good rotary brass wire brush on a drill should sort out the surface rust. Ref the in and out feed spindles. Do not put lube on the surfaces where the wood will pass - when in use they will be self cleaning. Put high melting point low viscosity oil or grease on the end running surfaces and a coating on the springs.
All these machine types are noisy. Be carefull of placing anything on the inner walls. Thin draft excluded can work in stopping panel vibration if placed between the mating surfaces or insulation tape. Dampening panels are fine on the exterior. The main noise comes from the cutting action and is amplified when connected to an effective extractor - not much you can do about this.

One point I did not mention is the anti kickback mechanism. It's extremely effective. Make sure all Keys move freely - don't use oil just WD40 as oil can drip on the wood.

I'm not trying to be funny but don't underestimate the setting up procedure if your not experienced. The video I mentioned earlier is great and if his process is followed you should be set up for a long time.

Ps I've fitted mine with a Wixey digital height gauge - brilliant. This makes it's use that much better to use, especially as the table handle ratio is 1.5mm per revolution which you have to get your head around!

Thanks,

Yes I've checked out the set up procedure and I've ordered a meter rule and dial guage to get the tables accurate. I've also got some cleaning and waxing products ordered. I've used a bearing grease in the feed/ exit roller bushings, this should be ok I think. I'm just about to clean and install the kickback mech now and hopefully get a belt today so I can fire it up.

Thanks for your feedback .

Rob.

 

[Fergie 307]

Nice machine, I have the earlier model where the machine and stand are seperate and bolted together. One fault on these machines is that there are holes in the deck at the bottom which allow sawdust to get into the chain mechanism that raises and lowers the bottom table for thicknessing. You really want to blow out any stuff that is in there and then lubricate the chain thoroughly, and make sure it is tensioned. I assume this is what the holes are there for. I use motorcycle chain lube as It dries to a waxy consistency and doesn't attract so much rubbish. Once you have done everything then just stick some gaffer tape over the holes. This will prevent further stuff getting in but is easily removed to check and lube the chain, alternatively you could use rubber grommets if you can find some the right size. If you find the bearings on the drum are shot then although it's a fairly straightforward job to change them there are a couple of things to bear in mind. Firstly you will find that the small pulley on the shaft is an interference fit. It is very difficult to get it off without damaging it, you need a proper press to have any chance. Easy enough to make a replacement of you have access to a metal working lathe, but bear in mind it is crowned. Second point is that the spacing between the bearing housings is critical of you are not to damage the new bearings. You need to measure this very accurately before you take them off, so you can position them accurately when you rebuild it. Easiest way I found was to grind the ends of a silver steel rod to fit exactly between them, then you can use this to set the new ones. And make a very careful note of the spacers when you take them off, they are not all the same and it is crucial that you put them back in the right places. I would get the bearings from a proper bearing supplier and make sure you tell them the operating speed. You need the correct ones designed to operate at high speed, ordinary ones won't last any time atall.

 

[Fergie 307]

Sorry also notice there is a belt missing in the pictures. There should be a narrow belt running between the small pulley on the end of the drum and the large pulley under the side cover, this drives the rollers. Don't know if you may have just taken it off, or If it's missing.

 

[Bradley]

Sorry also notice there is a belt missing in the pictures. There should be a narrow belt running between the small pulley on the end of the drum and the large pulley under the side cover, this drives the rollers. Don't know if you may have just taken it off, or If it's missing.

Hi, thanks for your messages. The belt is on order and should be here this coming week, as are the new blades and equipment to clean and set the tables. I'm hoping the bearings are OK, everything feels ok and smooth with no play, I checked when it was all stripped down, but once I get it started it'll become obvious I think.

Refitting the kickback was a pig of a job, just saying.

Thanks, Rob.

 

[clogs]

note.....v/high speed bearings are known as 3 spot.....they are built slightly loose....
these bearings along with a special lube are used in machines in the artic subjected to extremes of cold........
when I lived in California there were special built drill drivers etc made for Alaska and further up north......
I guy I know used to build houses up there winter/summer.....
to cut up pyl sheet in winter they'd dig a trench in the snow to make a bench then throw water on what is the snow table then drop the sheet on the wet snow....a few mins it's frozen solid, then they just cut is as needed with no regard how deep the saw it cutting.....
may have changed now as it was 30 years ago.....but interesting all the same.....

 

[Fergie 307]

Hi, thanks for your messages. The belt is on order and should be here this coming week, as are the new blades and equipment to clean and set the tables. I'm hoping the bearings are OK, everything feels ok and smooth with no play, I checked when it was all stripped down, but once I get it started it'll become obvious I think.

Refitting the kickback was a pig of a job, just saying.

Thanks, Rob.

The old machines like mine have straight ends on the tables and make quite a howling noise. I assume this is to do with air being forced through the gap, a bit like blowing across the top of a bottle. The later ones with comb s on the table ends are quieter, but still make quite a racket. Out of interest in the old machines they put the manufacturing date stamped into the end of the moveable table, don't know if they do that on the later ones. The bearings do last pretty well. My machines is from 1979. The bearing on the drive end was worn but the other one was still in good shape. Taking them off they appeared to be the originals. The drum pulley on mine was damaged when I got it, and not really surprised as it was a pig to get off, even with plenty of heat and a press, I think a previous owner may have tried to get it off and given up Having to make a new pulley anyway I took the opportunity to convert it to a poly v belt, so less tension required on the belt and the new bearings will probably outlive me.

 

[Bradley]

I have it's bigger brother the 638 they are very similar. I'm not sure why you are thinking this needs to be fully stripped and rebuilt. Unless you can find a particular problem I would have thought a thorough check of everything would be a good way to go and deal with issues that come along.

A few ideas come to mind. Firstly make sure the beds are not cracked or distorted as if they are, and given they are an alloy, you should deal with this first as if you can't remedy the fault you could be looking to get a another machine as these parts are extremely rare if not impossible to replace. The bed adjusters are robust and would benefit from cleaning, freeing off and lubrication. After this set up the beds for flatness (look at The Wood Whispers YouTube video for setting up your Planner for guidance).

Remove the side casing and the gearing system will appear. Check, clean and lubricate the gears and chain. There are metal and plastic gears so be thourough in checking them for wear as these are the weak links in the system. Adjust the chain tension. This is the time to check the bearings for play and rumble in knife block - don't remove this if there is no reason too as it's a tricky job. Remove the knives and clean and free off the knife adjusters - a drop of oil on the adjusting Allen keys is sufficient.

Check the main motor drive belt and replace if necessary and adjust its tension. Whilst the belt is off check the motor bearings and it turns smoothly.

The thicknesser table has a central column and there is a handwheel shaft and gears to operate it. These may need a thorough decrease and clean then lubricate. Make sure it's easy to operate through-out its travel. Clean and polish the bed.

The above are the key areas to get right and unless there is a fault to deal with, all you need to do is inspect and service the components.

Otherthan cosmetics, make sure the electrics function correctly and the machine operates properly.

Finally install a new set of knives and you should be good to go.

Good luck

Hi, a quick question on the feed/ output roller spring adjustment before I put the panels back on. I assume that they just wind out to the point where the panel screws will stop them from unwinding and further. Is this correct or slow there a more accurate way to get the spring tension?

Thanks, Rob.

 

[Chippymint]

I have never disturbed mine as had no need to.

It's good that they offer adjustment but the down side is you need to sus out what the pressure needs to be as this is important to get right. There has to be reasonable pressure otherwise it would not pull the wood through but importantly you need the right pressure to prevent snipe.
Unless someone knows, this might be a trial and error job but one you need to get right.
Take a photo for me to see of the adjuster and spring assy. I'll see if I can help.

 

[Bradley]

I have never disturbed mine as had no need to.

It's good that they offer adjustment but the down side is you need to sus out what the pressure needs to be as this is important to get right. There has to be reasonable pressure otherwise it would not pull the wood through but importantly you need the right pressure to prevent snipe.
Unless someone knows, this might be a trial and error job but one you need to get right.
Take a photo for me to see of the adjuster and spring assy. I'll see if I can help.

Hi,

Photos attached. The spring just sits in the carrier on top of the rollers, there is preload to get the hex screw into the threads on the body.

Thanks.

 

[Chippymint]

Hi,

Photos attached. The spring just sits in the carrier on top of the rollers, there is preload to get the hex screw into the threads on the body.

Thanks.

As I thought and as you have said, these are pre-load adjusters. In order for you to use the machine successfully, these will need setting correctly. I do not know what the initial setting is.

I would give Dave a call at DB Keighley based in Leeds. He was a Kity agent and undertakes repairs and sells woodworking machinery. He's a knowledgeable chap and helpful. He might know or could suggest an initial setting.

Failing finding advice, your going to have to do some trials yourself. Fine pre-load adjustments until you get a good even wood-finish result. I would use a wide piece of hardwood for the testing as this will challenge the machine. Suggest you start off with less pre-load and work up the pressure. Set the pre-load nuts at the same height then go up in 1/8 of a turn. Record the start height and all 4 adjustments as you go.

Good luck.

 

[Bradley]

Spoke to Dave and he wasn't sure if there is anything specific, so has advised to set them up at their minimum, test the machine and adjust if necessary.

Thanks.

 

[Chippymint]

As I thought and its all you can do. Just be mindful that this machine is old and the spring tensions will vary on each one and my guess is they will have lost some tension over their life. If they do bottom-out pack them with thin washers/shims.

 

[Fergie 307]

As others have said a matter of trying it out. Make sure the rollers are set up so they are the same distance from the bottom table at each end, this needs to be measured as accurately as you can manage using a caliper or gauge blocks. Then crank the adjusters up an eight of a turn at a time until it feeds smoothly.

 

[Fergie 307]

While I think about it, the springs are unlikely to have lost too much of their mojo, they aren't working too hard. The important thing is that they are all evenly springy as it were. If you are in any doubt then a good way to check is to pick one spring as a reference. Now place it end to end with one of the others and put them in a vice. Compress the pair gently and hopefully both will compress equally. Repeat this with each in turn. If any compress noticeably more than the reference one then you will have to replace the set in all probability. Your chances of finding an individual replacement that is the same as the others is pretty slim.