Kitty 419 table saw?? How much?

[Dalejones]

I have been offered This table saw but can't really find out much about it, anyone owned one? How much would it be worth so I kno I'm paying the right price? Thanks

 

[marcros]

i have had one in the past. a good little saw.

has it got the riving knife, guard and mitre gauge to go with it? Ideally also the short fence.

It looks in good condition. I am out of touch with the prices, but the new equivalent would be the axminster s200 if they still do it, so work on a percentage of that. how much are they asking?

 

[stuartpaul]

I've had one as well and it was a cracking little saw. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.

The model has changed and the 'new' one is now a Scheppach, - see here http://www.nmatools.co.uk/productdetail ... oduct=1055

At £800 new that's a lot more than I paid!

Second hand values are always difficult and it depends on condition, age etc.

 

[marcros]

i think that there is probably better saws out there for £800, new. I didn't know that the price had gone up so much, but kity was never cheap kit. For what it is worth, I sold mine and bought a larger Kity saw. It is one of the brands that i would specifically look for if I am buying secondhand equipment, along with inca, axminster white etc.

 

[Dalejones]

He's asking £350 so not to bad really, how old is this version saw then? Anyone know how loud the saw is? Thanks for your help

 

[Stocksy27]

Had one too great little saw, sold Mine for £200 was in mint condition.

 

[Dalejones]

Maybe he is asking to much then, il see if he can drop the price a bit

 

[marcros]

if it is complete that isn't a bad price. £200 was a bargain for somebody. getting a guard and riving knife could cost you a few quid and be difficult to source. you could make a riving knife and get a suva type guard, but it won't be cheap. the mitre gauge is non standard in size- there are ways around this (sleds or a modified aftermarket one), but again, aftermarket solutions are not cheap, and that gauge is useful, albeit the factory issued one isn't fantastic.

it wasn't noticeably loud. i always used it without extraction, but the extractor would have been much louder than the saw.

 

[mickthetree]

I'd pay 350 for that saw happily. Have owned one in the past and whilst I love my start rite the kity was great for smaller work. Can be made to run very accurately especially with a cross cut sled.

Hope this helps

 

[Eric The Viking]

[ I take on board the comments below, but to get one with the extensions and the sliding table for 200 is probably unrealistic in the present climate, as prices are rising. ]

He's asking £350 so not to bad really

how old is this version saw then?

You'll have to ask the present owner!

Anyone know how loud the saw is? Thanks for your help

See above answer. It depends on the blade and the stock as much as anything, anyway. The motor on its own is induction and not excessively loud.

Seriously, some info below (I have one):

• The early ones are made in France, and fairly good quality. I have no idea about the Far Eastern versions as mine is an early one.
• It has an alloy top, so won't rust, BUT you can't use magnets to attach guards, etc.
• The trunnion mountings for blade alignment are a right PITA, BUT they can be simply modified if you can drive a MIG welder (or know someone), or can use a drill and a tap in metal with reasonable accuracy. Strip-down + rebuild to do them, but it's a one-time only job.
• Similarly, the DX chute around the blade clogs, so people take one side off (same on the TS200 I believe).
• Dust extraction is rubbish, but no worse than equivalent saws, and not a significant problem.
• You'll struggle to make a good ZCI, but people have succeeded, and anyway, a sled will do just as well. The mitre fence, as opposed to the sliding table, is pretty good on them - mine are well machined (I presently have two) and accurately square.
• I have the sliding table - it's a PITA to set up, but handy when it's calibrated. I'm sure people do cut up large sheets on them, but personally I wouldn't. For smaller stuff and repeat cuts to length, it's really handy. It does get in the way a bit though, in a small workshop.
• The tilt arrangement is crude and, IMHO, silly. You can work around this though, and anyway, I'd budget for a Wixey gauge (or a digital angle finder), so you don't rely on it.
• I think the power switch is in a silly place, but it's a common problem, and anyway you can make your own 'emergency stop paddle'. Steve Maskery designed an interesting one...

Check it's got the other accessories I can't see in the picture (crown guard, short fence, mitre fence, DX tubing to go with the guard, etc. - bet the push stick got lost, and anyway make your own, several different sizes+shapes). Some bits from the Axminster TS200 will fit if anything is missing. I have the side tables too - handy, but it makes the arrangement top heavy to the right: I'd make a support leg for that end if ytou're going to use it on the metal stand.

I heartily recommend Steve Maskery's Compleat Table Saw DVD set. My 419 has a walk-on part in it! Steve goes through the safety and setup issues and gives a lot of really good advice.

As long as the accessories are there and the saw's in basically sound condition, that's probably a good deal. There's not much to wear out on them, but have a good check all round, especially the rollers for the sliding table (the nylon tyres on mine all split) and the state of the belt, and any obvious signs of damage around the throat plate.

Cheers,

E.

PS: I'm definitely NOT a tablesaw expert, just a 419 owner, presently (mine has a new owner taking possession in the next month or so).