Kitchen revamp

[Mjward]

Have a 10yr old kitchen put together extremely well, great joinery but not to our taste with regards to colours (cream cabinets, black granite worktops, pewter hardware).

After sanding, filling, sanding etc the walls and ceilings, I'm not disassembling the cabinetry ready for spraying. So far so good, bit of rust I need to figure out a solution for but otherwise pretty painless

 

[JBaz]

I'm about to start doing exactly the same, but I'm going to brush paint the carcasses with Farrow and Ball Estate Eggshell.

When we built the kitchen we sprayed the doors etc, but on the last coat we ran a brush over it when the paint (actually pre-cat lacquer) was still wet to give a hand painted effect. Barely visible, but a nice finish.

Not wanting to spray indoors (even with HVLP) I used the F&B, thinned down about 25%, and applied 3 coats. It went on brilliantly, even the larger areas like cabinet ends.

The frames are the same profile as yours with a thin rounded bead and I thought this might be a challenge to paint, but thinned down the F&B covered well.

That was 12 years ago and this will be the second time I've re-painted it, so the F&B has lasted very well.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the cabinet interiors. They are not too bad, but some of the bottom panels are marked where saucepans have been slid across them. I might try a self-adhesive plastic film.

What are you doing on the interiors?

 

[johnbest981]

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the cabinet interiors. They are not too bad, but some of the bottom panels are marked where saucepans have been slid across them. I might try a self-adhesive plastic film.

What are you doing on the interiors?

I used self adhesive plastic film on mine and it was a terrible idea - wasn't long before it scuffed up and bubbled then ripped off. Really did look tatty with in a month or two.

A caveat is that I did use pretty much the cheapest of the cheap but it's really made me think that even with better stuff it's just not a great long term fix with how often kitchen pots and pans/ appliances get used.

(don't mean to throw my debbie downer 2 pence where it's not wanted but thought I should speak up just on the off chance it's helpful - would love to hear if anyone has a success story because i'd love a solution... I've put anti slip matt down at the mo and it's doing a good job but obviously doesn't look the best)

 

[D_W]

I'm about to start doing exactly the same, but I'm going to brush paint the carcasses with Farrow and Ball Estate Eggshell.

When we built the kitchen we sprayed the doors etc, but on the last coat we ran a brush over it when the paint (actually pre-cat lacquer) was still wet to give a hand painted effect. Barely visible, but a nice finish.

Not wanting to spray indoors (even with HVLP) I used the F&B, thinned down about 25%, and applied 3 coats. It went on brilliantly, even the larger areas like cabinet ends.
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The frames are the same profile as yours with a thin rounded bead and I thought this might be a challenge to paint, but thinned down the F&B covered well.

That was 12 years ago and this will be the second time I've re-painted it, so the F&B has lasted very well.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the cabinet interiors. They are not too bad, but some of the bottom panels are marked where saucepans have been slid across them. I might try a self-adhesive plastic film.

What are you doing on the interiors?

suggestion on my part - loose roll (shelf liner) that is maybe tacked with a small amount of adhesives will be better than something done as an adhesive and won't get marked up like attempting to cover the current bottoms with hard paint.

More or less, hide the problem and protect the cabinets from anything further.

I thought this would be a terror in our cabinets moving around and bunching up, but when the cabinets have other dishes everywhere, it never moves.

 

[Mjward]

Thankfully despite the house being literally filled with horrors...the inside of the cabinets are in perfect condition. Massively misjudged how long it takes to mask up. Disassembly is super quick but getting the tape lines perfect is...boring in the extreme!

A picture of the side profile to show the quality joinery

And of the stack of doors and drawers all removed and taped up

Of course I miscounted the hinges but given I've got ceilings and walls to paint first I definitely won't get to painting the cabinets till mid next week but will update on here

 

[Jameshow]

Just a thought....

what about thin plastic place mat material? Tough and slippy too, glued down with double sided tape.

 

[Mjward]

Replacement hinges have arrived and...looks to be 0.5mm thickness difference and screws are ever so slightly different length (and I assume thickness)

Is there anything that can be done to salvage this other than send back and reorder? Company I'm ordering from (ironmongery direct doesn't seem to have them in the thicker variety)

 

[Mjward]

Sod it I'm not messing around, ordered the larger ones and will just send these back

 

[Mjward]

Just finished the last of the sanding. Every inch of wood hit with 120 grit, all cabinets taped up (took much much longer than anticipated). Tomorrow will be a big clean/degrease, add mouldings to the walls, caulk skirting/architrave and if time will mask up to get the ceiling painted

 

[Mjward]

Few updates from today, not much visible progress but basically every cabinet door, drawer, carcass, skirting, architrave, ceiling, wall etc sugar soaped and then cleaned with water once the whole room (and walls and ceilings) hoovered. Managed to fit in enough time to cut my moulding (although was short a few pieces but that's all they had at local store so on bigger road trip tomorrow).

That mitre fast stuff is just brilliant. Used fix all and 32mm nail gun to affix first bits to wall

 

[Mjward]

Finished off the moulding (my mitres seem to improve with each one), wood filler in nail holes, added more primer and then caulked. Additionally spend a good 3 hours caulking the rest of the room, there was none on any skirting or architrave etc which made it an easier job than old stuff needing scraping out but there was a LOT to do.

 

[Mjward]

Took a day for each coat (cutting in with brush, small roller then large roller) as room is large and open plan but 3 costs later it's there for the walls.

Will give 24hrs then mask up and do the trim before finally attacking the cabinets

 

[Mjward]

Have had a nightmare with spraying the cabinets, largely my fault.

Biggest issues:
1) I didn't cover every inch in the room and low and behold spray has managed to turn my recently sanded/varnished floor...blue

2) I made an incorrect assumption that heat would be good to speed up the paint drying. Ventilation and cold was what was required and now 36 hours in the satinwood (oil based) is starting to dry.

Once fully dry I'm going to sand down the cabinet doors, lots of paint build up where I tried hanging some vertically on hangers (terrible idea with this paint it turns out).

 

[Mjward]

I'm learning every day with sprayer. I attacked the main kitchen carcasses today and play around with sprayer settings. I found speed was of the essence. It goes against what feels right but quick movements gave the best finish. Where I was too slow I got paint build up/drips but found quickly back-rolling with a foam/gloss roller sorted them out. Also with a oil-based satinwood I think it doesn't need any thinning and it's the thinning that's contributing to putting too much paint out there

 

[Mjward]

Will update with some pics tomorrow but ended up rolling a lot of cabinet doors. It's definitely user error but I found the 517 tip spews far too much paint out yet the 317 seem to be too narrow for it to escape even with 10% thinning. Frustrating as the spray finish is a wholly different league to roller but I just don't have the time to trial and error with the kitchen.

 

[Mjward]

Should add that I'm changing the work tops to a white quartz next month

 

[Mjward]

Forgot to send finished product pics. Worktops and all fittings in. Bizarrely feels substantially brighter with dark units & light worktop than the previous light units & dark worktop.

 

[MikeJhn]

Have had a nightmare with spraying the cabinets, largely my fault.

Biggest issues:
1) I didn't cover every inch in the room and low and behold spray has managed to turn my recently sanded/varnished floor...blue

2) I made an incorrect assumption that heat would be good to speed up the paint drying. Ventilation and cold was what was required and now 36 hours in the satinwood (oil based) is starting to dry.

Once fully dry I'm going to sand down the cabinet doors, lots of paint build up where I tried hanging some vertically on hangers (terrible idea with this paint it turns out).

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Looking at the amount of overspray and bounce back, I can only assume you are not using an HVLP gun and Turbine, what are you using?

 

[Sandyn]

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the cabinet interiors. They are not too bad, but some of the bottom panels are marked where saucepans have been slid across them. I might try a self-adhesive plastic film.

This stuff is very good, Thick and durable. Looks great if cut neatly

 

[Mjward]

Looking at the amount of overspray and bounce back, I can only assume you are not using an HVLP gun and Turbine, what are you using?

Wagner Airless ControlPro 350 R​