Kitchen Face Frames - Chamfer or Staff Bead

[johnnyb]

I have used them and they look OK but I do discourage there use( working alone makes you unproductive enough without falsehood!)

 

[scholar]

not by hand I use a mortar joint cutter from wealden and a crosscut sled on the router table. works well and you only need to buy the cutter.







the morso is perfection but pricey(few thousand used) the bead is done after the joI much preferint and I much prefer wealden mini moulder beads. they fit on an arbor and leave a much cleaner

not by hand I use a mortar joint cutter from wealden and a crosscut sled on the router table. works well and you only need to buy the cutter.







the morso is perfection but pricey(few thousand used) the bead is done after the joI much preferint and I much prefer wealden mini moulder beads. they fit on an arbor and leave a much cleaner finish.

@Jonnyb I agree that a sharper point looks best on the beading - I must try those mimi-mould cutters - I notice though that the inner cut is angled rather than square as in the normal beading cutters.

Anyway, I was interested in your description of using a “mortar groove cutter” for the mitres - I found this (very poor) set of instructions for a similar set up https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0804/2313/files/Beaded_Face_Frame.pdf?4603151876802194545 Is this how you go about it - and do you not find you get tear out on the exiting side of the beading?

My approach is a bit slow and tedious, but just involves a close cut then paring with a chisel to a 45° block I clamp to each face in turn.

Cheers

 

[johnnyb]

that's basically it. but my set up is a mitre fence in a groove with a wooden subfence. the wealden bit is narrower than those so needs at least 2 passes. remember the bead is cut after the joints so any tearout is routed away but and I repeat do not climb cut. so the first cut is fairly balanced but heavy. Next cut move the stile to the right so it's cutting into the wood NOT left creating a climb cut . it's all done on the wooden subfence re making the notches the right size. using lines from the points and edges. After getting the bit the right height of course.

 

[johnnyb]

btw you need a sturdy little clamp to stop it creeping. and no slop in the mitre gauge.

 

[johnnyb]

here's my set up along with the bits used.

 

[Dibs-h]

here's my set up along with the bits used.

The top 2 cutters - why those instead of say a 6.4mm beading bit?

Apologies if it's a daft question.

 

[scholar]

here's my set up along with the bits used.

looks like a Jessem router table (same as mine) - I will try your technique next time I have a few to do.

Thank you.

@Dibs-h re the cutter on the arbor - see @Jonnyb ‘s earlier comments and look up on the Wealden website - that will explain.

Cheers

 

[Dibs-h]

@Dibs-h re the cutter on the arbor - see @Jonnyb ‘s earlier comments and look up on the Wealden website - that will explain.

Cheers

Sorry mate - probably still get getting it (probably been on the work laptop staring at 1's & 0's too long).

The "mortar" cutter - I've seen that before, (think) I understand about the notching.

It's the top 2 cutters that I'm not understanding the purpose of over a single say 6.4mm bead cutter (that Wealdon do).

EDIT: OK, I have definitely been looking at 1's & 0's too long today. I spotted the minimould cutter at the top left & rereading johnny's previous posts really slowly.

What's the one on the top right? Looks like some kind of groove cutter.

 

[Spectric]

Provide some links, the mini mold is a cross between a router cutter and spindle About Mini Mould

You need an arbor Mini Mould Arbors

and then you have a choice of cutters Cutter Heads

 

[johnnyb]

sorry the 2 mini mould cutter are just 2 different sized beads. just to repeat wwhyi likelthem. Little bead cutters tend to pluck the edge adjacent to the bead. it's a subtle thing but becomes annoying. they just cut better as well. I would do these on a spindle tbh but I drop on/ off around the bottom legs. the spindle tends to stray into the leg a bit ruining the effect. the arbors are really useful accepting decent size three wing groovers complete with bearings.

 

[johnnyb]

bit where you drop on/ pull off

 

[Dibs-h]

sorry the 2 mini mould cutter are just 2 different sized beads. just to repeat wwhyi likelthem. Little bead cutters tend to pluck the edge adjacent to the bead. it's a subtle thing but becomes annoying. they just cut better as well. I would do these on a spindle tbh but I drop on/ off around the bottom legs. the spindle tends to stray into the leg a bit ruining the effect. the arbors are really useful accepting decent size three wing groovers complete with bearings.

Cheers for that Johnny.