Kitchen Face Frames - Chamfer or Staff Bead

[Dibs-h]

I've seen folk do it both ways - but more staff bead ones.

Is it just down to personal preference or are there up\down sides to one & not the other?

Am I also right in thinking that in the case of the chamfer - the door\drawer is inset a tad (to effectively be level with the "inner" bit of the chamfer)?

Thanks

 

[Spectric]

I think @doctor Bob might answer this one, he has made some really nice kitchens.

 

[johnnyb]

the staff bead is a bit more involved if you've not got a morso nf. the chamfer I'm not sure having never seen it tbh. plain frames are simple. I do think beads narrow the surround considerably( visually) and plain is wider. do you put panel mould on the door as well as beads on the frames?



I usually do one or the other rarely both. beaded frames are fashionably high end. but that's just fashion as in the past the beading was on the drawer to protect the veneer.

 

[Doug71]

The little staff bead is often called a **** bead, I like the way it looks, it kind of hides the gap around the door.

I don't do many so don't have a proper set up for doing them, I generally cheat by making the frames just square and nailing a bead on after.

 

[Dibs-h]

the staff bead is a bit more involved if you've not got a morso nf. the chamfer I'm not sure having never seen it tbh. plain frames are simple. I do think beads narrow the surround considerably( visually) and plain is wider. do you put panel mould on the door as well as beads on the frames?



I usually do one or the other rarely both. beaded frames are fashionably high end. but that's just fashion as in the past the beading was on the drawer to protect the veneer.

Cheers for the reply mate.

TBH - I haven't done a kitchen yet and I can only put off doing ours for so long.

After seeing a few threads (Roger's admittedly), some of doctor Bobs and the one by Jar944 - I'm getting my head around what I (and the Mrs) would like, and the thought popped up about staff beads and chamfers. doctor Bob has posted some in the past with chamfers.

Personally I wouldn't panel mould the door - but that's just my personal preference.

 

[Dibs-h]

The little staff bead is often called a **** bead, I like the way it looks, it kind of hides the gap around the door.

I don't do many so don't have a proper set up for doing them, I generally cheat by making the frames just square and nailing a bead on after.

Cheers Doug - I knew it was called a **** bead by many, just wasn't sure the forum filter would catch it. Didn't want anyone reading, wondering what an earth a "pineapple bead" is.

Just realised, I hadn't thought about the hinges in this context. If I wanted traditional hinges, then letting the knuckle into the bead would be my preference visually. Whereas with a chamfer - you can't.

 

[johnnyb]

I think kitchen makers tend to( naturally) make things that fashionable magazines "advocate". they can tend to be "conservative" in that they revolve around the same details. I like something that's a bit left field. devol make one named after the designer. it's boarded.
tom howleys are a bit straightlaced for me. I make all my face frames 36mm wide. I don't like butt hinges, catches etc preferring thick clip blums.( you can get 18mm spacer cruciform plates) the bottom one can be made thicker as long as its flush with the bottom( to get the dust out!)

 

[johnnyb]

or a cott bead(bit posher than ****)

 

[johnnyb]

letting the hinges into a made frame sounds like my nightmare. imagine a slip. having to remake and repaint. makes me shudder. usually let double in the door and screwed to the frame using simonswerk.

maybe cut the recesses before assembling the frame.

 

[Doug71]

Just realised, I hadn't thought about the hinges in this context. If I wanted traditional hinges, then letting the knuckle into the bead would be my preference visually. Whereas with a chamfer - you can't.

Nice idea but not as easy as you would think to do right! Most places just chop the butt hinges double thickness into the door.

 

[Dibs-h]

I see what you both mean about the difficulty - I suspect there will be at least 1 "test" frame. And then a decision. LOL

Cheers.

 

[johnnyb]

I good dodge on painted doors is to simply glue and screw the mitred face frames.( especially on beech) as it makes a really strong bond I use 50mm 3.5mm fancy screws( rapier star) with a dowel shank( not fully threaded. as it stops them snapping such is the power of the screw.

paint and filler job done. on bright work I use domino's though.

 

[johnnyb]

I prefer to have a deeper bottom rail on the door. of course anything different adds to visits from herr cockup.

 

[baldkev]

**** **** **** **** ****

Anyway, Kreg do a face frame jig, but just looking on google, it must have gone up since the pandemic I'm sure it was about £280 before
https://www.yandles.co.uk/kreg-prec...4wZBTqN1d_knc2C2bhK1X_wBTFahTQVKH5mmfdtKNXPh0

 

[johnnyb]

with that jig your stuck with what they choose. I like wealden minimould beads.they have a sharp point rather than a flat bit that tends to pluck the grain also it's a bigger cut rad(giving less pluck for you buck)











)

 

[Dibs-h]

I have a Domino.

 

[johnnyb]

you need the 700 with the 500 adaptor to manage the plunge on the female mitred bit. I've seen it done using a pellet on a few kitchens. looks a bit yeugh to me but it's good for alignment. domino's can be a bit hit or miss half a mill can be catastrophic as the beads can't be drastically levelled.

 

[baldkev]

with that jig your stuck with what they choose. I like wealden minimould beads.they have a sharp point rather than a flat bit that tends to pluck the grain also it's a bigger cut rad(giving less pluck for you buck)











)

That looks nice.
Do you do the cutout on your uprights by hand? I saw the previous post about a morso, but presumably that does the rails, not the stiles?


Edit to add: i just googled it looks a cool bit of kit.
I had been thinking of the old green morso picture mitre jobby

 

[johnnyb]

not by hand I use a mortar joint cutter from wealden and a crosscut sled on the router table. works well and you only need to buy the cutter.







the morso is perfection but pricey(few thousand used) the bead is done after the joI much preferint and I much prefer wealden mini moulder beads. they fit on an arbor and leave a much cleaner finish.

 

[Misterdog]

I don't like butt hinges, catches etc preferring thick clip blums.( you can get 18mm spacer cruciform plates)

Or Blum hinges for easy fitting adjustability with dummy butt hinges for appearance.