Kitchen Cabinets

[monster]

Thomas - yes it just goes to show you dont need to spend a lot on tools to be able to produce something decent - I'll enjoy looking through your thread!

Doug, thanks for that - the room was in fact a number of smaller rooms with a chimney in the middle of them and some of the floors were solid and other suspended so its taken me quite a while to get it to this stage, I also made a triple sash window detailed another thread which you can just see the edge of under the arch. I actually made the arch myself too, it matches others in the house with an ovolo plaster detail around the edge which is spun in situ using a running mould.

AJB - 24mm is thicker than what most people use for carcassing - Re. ply - I'm not keen on having to finishing the insides and melamine seems such an ideal finish for cabinet insides as its easy to clean and robust.

Anyone used Cutwrights? - I can't find anyone close to me who can supply Egger boards.

 

[AJB Temple]

Yes, I know most people don't use 24mm, but then they moan about movement. The price difference from 18mm to 24mm (assuming a good quality supplier who will not sell junk with voids and a lot of patches on the obverse face) is trivial in the context of a full kitchen build. I am building for myself and I expect it to last forever so I make stuff strong!

 

[owen]

Yes, I know most people don't use 24mm, but then they moan about movement. The price difference from 18mm to 24mm (assuming a good quality supplier who will not sell junk with voids and a lot of patches on the obverse face) is trivial in the context of a full kitchen build. I am building for myself and I expect it to last forever so I make stuff strong!

18mm is perfectly adequate for kitchen cabinets, with a 6mm back. 24mm with 18mm backs is way overkill.

 

[monster]

Egger MFC seems to be stocked by Cutwrights in predominantly two thicknesses -18mm and 8mm. I'll use 18mm for carcasses and 8mm for the rears of carcass with an oak finish to the melamine, but would the 8mm MFC also be suitable for the drawer bottoms if I was to use it there as well? I plan on making oak dovetailed drawer boxes, and if possible would like to use the same oak finish melamine faced particle board for these drawers bottoms?

 

[doctor Bob]

I plan on making oak dovetailed drawer boxes, and if possible would like to use the same oak finish melamine faced particle board for these drawers bottoms?

If it's solid oak sides use 9mm veneer oak for the bottoms. Don't mix and match. It will look terrible if you do.

 

[monster]

Hi Doctor Bob, Are you suggesting veneered mdf, ply or particle board?

Would you use similar veneered finish for the carcasses and shelves as well - or go with melamine finish?

thanks

 

[doctor Bob]

Hi Doctor Bob, Are you suggesting veneered mdf, ply or particle board?

Would you use similar veneered finish for the carcasses and shelves as well - or go with melamine finish?

thanks

Keep the drawerboxes all solid oak and oak veneer bases. Nothing wrong with Eggerboard carcases.
We tend to do the show cabinets in veneers, things like fancy larders, work top mounted bifolds etc rest in MFC but it all depends on clients budget

 

[monster]

Thanks for that Bob - for the veneered drawer bottoms what would board substrate would you use - ply / mdf or particle board?

 

[doctor Bob]

Thanks for that Bob - for the veneered drawer bottoms what would board substrate would you use - ply / mdf or particle board?

I use 10mm veneered MDF.

 

[monster]

I use 10mm veneered MDF.

Great thanks

 

[Farmer Giles]

Domino machines are expensive but you can sell them afterwards for not much less than you paid new, however I bet you will find more uses. I also use them to lip the ply shelves with oak and joint the face frame, and make the doors........

I don't think I should have read that... It's a very good way to justify buying a domino...
Are you a hobbyist woodworker or professional? just curious about hobbyist use of a domino.

I guess I'm a hobbyist, definitely not professional, but I do seem to be making a lot of stuff recently, I have gone through a few bulk bags of dominoes. I'm just making a new posh chicken shed, the nest boxes are being made from 12mm external grade ply, fixed with Dominoes....

 

[monster]

Ok, so I've ordered all the carcass panels cut to the exact finished size by Cutwrights, came to 144 separate panels out of 10 sheets of 2.8m x 2.0 Egger MFC - never been so scared ordering anything in all my life, I can't believe for one minute I have got all the measurements correct with no errors / omissions etc - each time I went over my cut list I spotted mistakes lol. Delivery is Tuesday....

Ive been nipping into as many high end Kitchen shops as possible, with the Misses as cover in order to get ideas and observe construction methods - I plan to use butt hinges for cup'd doors with **** bead machined into the face frame and Ive noticed on more than one occasion that the hinge is let only into the door and not into cabinet frame - they let it deep into the door and then just fix it atop the frame - can anyone enlighten me on the reason for this? Personally I would like to let the hinges into both the door and frame with if possible the pin in line with the **** bead in the frame.

 

[sammy.se]

...Personally I would like to let the hinges into both the door and frame with if possible the pin in line with the **** bead in the frame.

I believe it was Custard who said that was as classy as a classy thing...

 

[Doug71]

Personally I would like to let the hinges into both the door and frame with if possible the pin in line with the **** bead in the frame.

I just cut the hinges almost double in to door then screw to frame, the screws easily support the weight and it doesn't mess up the lines of the **** bead. Once you start trying to line the knuckle up with the **** bead you are getting in to some serious joinery involving feathering the hinges in on an angle etc, looks nice but not easy.

 

[doctor Bob]

Personally I would like to let the hinges into both the door and frame with if possible the pin in line with the **** bead in the frame.

We did this on some really high end stuff for a well known actor a few years ago, detailed on the brief from interior designer. It is a real pain in the arse. It requires an angled rebate on the frame and door.
We had about 8 doors to hang and we cut them by hand. It didn't float my boat and I personally wouldn't do it on a kitchen.

 

[sammy.se]

Personally I would like to let the hinges into both the door and frame with if possible the pin in line with the **** bead in the frame.

We did this on some really high end stuff for a well known actor a few years ago, detailed on the brief from interior designer. It is a real pain in the buttocks. It requires an angled rebate on the frame and door.
We had about 8 doors to hang and we cut them by hand. It didn't float my boat and I personally wouldn't do it on a kitchen.

What's your usual method for your kitchens, Bob? Do you let the hinges in both the door and the frame?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[doctor Bob]

Personally I would like to let the hinges into both the door and frame with if possible the pin in line with the **** bead in the frame.

We did this on some really high end stuff for a well known actor a few years ago, detailed on the brief from interior designer. It is a real pain in the buttocks. It requires an angled rebate on the frame and door.
We had about 8 doors to hang and we cut them by hand. It didn't float my boat and I personally wouldn't do it on a kitchen.

What's your usual method for your kitchens, Bob? Do you let the hinges in both the door and the frame?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

we let them into the door, not the frame.

 

[monster]

Thanks for all the responses on the hinge point - so the reason they are let into the door only, is it looks neater than cutting into the cockbead - i guess its easier as well as there is only one recess to cut.. I'd love to hear any other opinions as to how other folk do theirs?

 

[monster]

So I've received all the material for the carcasses from Cutwrights and am about to start assembling them, I'm also turning my attention now to the face frames and doors / drawer fronts and would like to finalise my cut list and get the order in for that.

I'm torn between using tulipwood / poplar or steamed beech. I'm aware the beech is quite a bit harder than tulipwood, but I have heard it can move around a bit so that concerns me - can you good folk on here please help guide me one way or the other?

 

[LBCarpentry]

Beech over tulip wood every time for me! My experience of tulip is that it moved a tonne I wasn’t impressed at all. Think beech is cheaper also.