k10 chuck jaws recommendation

[mike s]

what jaws would you recommend buying when i buy the k10 body?
unfortunately they dont do the package deals anymore so i need to choose.
most things i turn are 5 - 10" shallowish bowls but every now and then i want to try something bigger/smaller
i have a separate screw chuck so i wont need to buy that
i have about 120-30 to spend on the chuck + jaws
thanks

my current chuck is a peter child masterchuck2 which is ok but the travel is only about 15mm and the choice of jaws is very, very limited
it is about time for an upgrade

 

[SVB]

Mike,

I would recommend a set of C jaws as they seem to the the standard for other accessories + are a nice size for the projects you mention.

Second, I would recommend a set of G gripper jaws - the parallel serrated teeth give an excellent hold when working end grain - goblets / hollow forms etc.

Third (and streching the budget now I think) I would consider a set of the o'donnell jaws (the universal ones that take the inserts are a compromise at the smaller sizes but I get on fine with mine).

Perhaps an alternative to the O'Ds would be a set of jaw plates, you can then make a set of cole jaws to reverse your bowls / platters etc to finish the base.

A final thought to top any order is a faceplate ring suited to the jaws you choose - always useful.

Hope this helps,

Simon

 

[mike s]

thanks simon
type c jaws look great. i also like the jaw plate idea - i didn't think of that

 

[CHJ]

I would suggest you consider the 80mm C jaws,they fit any 100mm. chuck. they have a smaller socket requirement (50mm) and are my main users.
I have the 100mm versions but they get used on a ratio of about 1 in 20 against the 80mm for the items I turn.

For flexability of jaw travel have you considered the 125mm chuck, this gives you 40mm of jaw travel and can be very flexible with jaw plates and cole jaws etc.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Mike,

I guess it really depends upon the sort of work you are doing but I have a set of standard "C" jaws that do most of my work and a set of "F" jaws for smaller stuff.

It's worth mentioning that they are each on their own carriers so no need to unscrew every time I change them, just wind them out and back in again!

Cheers

Richard

 

[jpt]

I would recommend the O'Donnell jaw set http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod804392/ as your main jaws I use these for 95% of all chuck work I do.

john

 

[philb88]

Just about to get a SuperPrecision and have been wondering this too! Has anyone thought of the Pin Jaws for green wood work?

PHIL

 

[CHJ]

....! Has anyone thought of the Pin Jaws for green wood work?
PHIL

Do you mean the Spigot jaws?if so they have their uses but do need using with care, it's most important that you take care with correct mounting and take care not to apply excessive force when clamping as they are vulnerable to distortion if location is not evenly distributed.

Used with the 100mm chuck the hole tolerance range for fixings is limited, so the selection of a decent forstener bit of the appropriate diameter is a first point of call and needs adding to the cost equation if you don't have one in your kit..

 

[philb88]

....! Has anyone thought of the Pin Jaws for green wood work?
PHIL

Do you mean the Spigot jaws?if so they have their uses but do need using with care, it's most important that you take care with correct mounting and take care not to apply excessive force when clamping as they are vulnerable to distortion if location is not evenly distributed.

Used with the 100mm chuck the hole tolerance range for fixings is limited, so the selection of a decent forstener bit of the appropriate diameter is a first point of call and needs adding to the cost equation if you don't have one in your kit..

Yeh those where the ones, thought they'd be the best method for mounting natural edge log sections? Or are there better jaws up to the task! Don't want them bent out of shape after a couple of bowls!
PHIL