Job i've just finished

[skipdiver]

Been involved in a big project for my mates double glazing company,namely a huge sunroom with vaulted ceiling.We also removed the main house wall and i fitted the kitchen as a seperate job for the customers.Please excuse the quality of the pics.It was a very sunny day and the camera kept overexposing.I aint no David Bailey but i think you can get the gist of the building.Looks bigger in real life.

Part of the vaulted ceiling.Customers mother in shot.

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Some pics of the kitchen.

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Tiles were hand made crackle glazed and cost £400

 

[Gary]

Not seen that pink upvc before, does it cost any extra? :lol: :wink:

 

[skipdiver]

Funny you should say that as a lot of pvc went pink in the early days.Apparently it was as a result of too much lead in the mix.My mates company had to have loads of windows and doors resprayed.Luckily the cost was met by the manufacturer.

 

[Pete Robinson]

Excellent work all round!!
Kitchen looks great, what materials did you use?

Pete

 

[skipdiver]

Although i would love to lay claim to hours spent building and painting units and doors,all the kitchen was bought in.The only thing i made from scratch was the overmantle,which was made from green M.D.F.

I have made similar kitchens in the past but sadly have no photo's.I want to get into bespoke kitchens,really enjoy kitchen work.

 

[Lark]

on the subject of windows

we have a couple around the house that get condensation on the middle of the double Glazed windows

is that a costly fix or not ?

if any one knows

 

[Pete Robinson]

Lark, your double glazed sealed units are no longer sealed and need to be replaced. Just as an example, I recently had 12 double glazed units (for my on never ending workshop build) made to measure with an anti-sun tint (clear are cheaper still) and they worked out at around £12 each. I am not sure about fitting prices though as I did mine myself.

Hope this helps

Pete

 

[Lark]

thanks yes this is help full.

for some one who never done it would it be a hard job to do on there own if so thats ok just wondered

 

[eggflan]

Lark, leave the window frames in place and use a flat scraper type tool to pry off the mouldings on the inside of the window frame (the beadings that hold the glass in) then measure the actual glazed bit , you will be surprised how cheap it is to for replacements for your blown windows and so easy to fix , just pop new one in and put the beadings back . I was at a customers house the other week and a glazing company had talked them into replacing all the windows in there house just because one had blown :shock: It cost them £5000 and all it needed was one window replacing at around £70 :shock: :shock: :roll:



Mic..

 

[Lark]

yer what i was worried about that they would try to con me mum into something but she normally not to bad listening to them..

might have a search tomoz as its 3am . all did find was ring the number for quotes. thanks nn

 

[dennis]

Lark

There are different ways to take the beads out on the different makes of window,some are beaded inside and some out,some you need to take the internal rubber seal out before the beads and some that you can just flick out with a putty knife,my own are a make called sheerframe and you need a special deglazing tool with a lip on and a hole in it,you need to peel the rubber seal in the bead feed in the tool put a screwdriver through the hole put a piece of wood for protection on the window frame and prise the bead out,fortunately I think it is only sheerframe that you need to do this on.So have a check firstly trying carefully to flick a bead out with a putty knife or flat deglazing tool and if this does not work I would suggest getting advice as to which type yours are either by asking a window fitter or if you know who fit the windows ask them.As I say take care because you do not want to ruin the beads or seals as replacing those could be a problem depending on make.


Dennis



dENNIS

 

[bodgermatic]

Also worth noting that sealed units come in different thicknesses, so before ordering a replacement you'll need to know the thickness. The pros have an optical gauge that can tell how far apart the two panes of glass are, but when I did this, I just removed one section of beading and measured with a ruler.

 

[Davon]

I think you would need strengthened glass (more expense) for units less than about 80cm from ground level..I could be wrong however.
Davon

 

[skipdiver]

No you are correct.Any glazing below 800mm has to be toughened and all glass in doors and sidelights regardless of height,so if you have a door with a window attached,it has to be toughened whatever the height.

Been fitting a uPVC door today and the beads are very simple to fit and remove in the type of frame i was using.Some are not so simple.

 

[Lark]

thanks that means one is ok, top floor and the other will need to be.

i might ring up and see how much it would cost first.. before i see if i could do it. incase it is cheap enough and they often give 10 years cover

 

[the_g_ster]

Great looking job!! Like it alot

The only one thing is so much effort goes into a job like this and then somebody just leaves a crappy microwave on the edge of the top. Is there noplace for this to be hidden?

G