Jet JWBS-16X Bandsaw - Advice please

[sunnybob]

Mike... If it aint broke, dont fix it.

different machines are made in different ways and have different characteristics.
You start with the recommended settings, and if that works, then youre golden. If it doesnt work, then you start "fettling" to make that particular machine work well in those particular circumstances.
Yours works, all is well.

 

[MikeJhn]

Not trying to fix anything, this is just an academic discussion as I said five post's back.

A Bandsaw is what it is, things can always be improved, I found by following the Snodgrass recommendations to set up my Bandsaw transformed my small desktop into a usable machine and made my BS350 perform to what I think is its true potential, I have not changed from this set up for the last few years and don't see the need to.

Mike

 

[Alexam]

Hi Mike,
no you haven't missed anything and the Alex Snodgrass method is the best I have seen.

If the blade gullet can be positioned in the centre of the top wheel, then the bottom guides will not have to be moved forward or back. Some bandsaws have narrower wheels and with larger blades, the gullet may sit more forward on the top wheel than in the centre to avoid overhanging the back of the wheel. If that is so, then the lower guide assembly needs moving slightly.
Malcolm

 

[Moonsafari69]

Bear in mind this is the 350N bandsaw, but what you describe sounds the same.
Excuse the picture quality, the flash bounced back off the cast iron table, but it actually gives a clearer image than otherwise.
The two bolts on top at the right of the block are what we are talking about? They were allen bolts, but it was a complete faff trying to locate the keys in the tops so I just swapped them for normal bolts.
Bear in mind they only need a quarter turn to loosen them to allow the block to slide forwards or back in the slots.

You can see the length of adjustment on the rear bearing guide. In practice I only have to move the block when changing from the smallest blade to the largest blade or back again.

I bet that has worked well. To give you a perspective I'd say the access to these bolts on the 350 is still heaps better than on the 16" Jet machine. Having said that, I will be going back to Axminster this week to see what difference it would make. As I said, the rest of the machine is so well made that if changing these Allen screws to standard bolts works then I'd be more than happy to buy it.
Thanks for taking the time with the photos, much appreciated.
Dave.

 

[Moonsafari69]

Hi Dave,
Not for the smaller blades, but with 1/2" plus the teeth will be more forward on the top wheel and may need some adjustment. As I mainly use smaller blades, dont need to move it much but it's easy if I do. The two hex bolts are different sizes (silly) but still not a problem with the 'T' 's
Malcolm

Thank you Malcolm, the wheels on the Jet are really quite wide (twice as wide as my existing Startrite in any case). I think with all the advice from yourself and sunnybob I may be onto a winner here. Your help has been spot on.
Dave.

 

[boz]

Hi ,
I have the Jet JWBS-16X The access to the guide bolts is not the best but easy to do, there is plenty of access from the rear. I ground down an Allen key to make life easier. Changing the cap heads to set bolts would make it easier still (why did I not think of it). Its only very occasionally that I have had to move the guide block anyway.

Only other comments are , don't use the supplied blade it was rubbish! I have to use it on a 16amp supply because when it was plugged into a 13amp supply it struggled to get going, don't know why but putting it onto the workshop 16amp supply cured it. At first I was not very impressed with the results I got from the saw , but with advice from here and Ian from Tuffsaw and his blades it does a very very good job . Its well made quality bit of kit , hope that helps

 

[Moonsafari69]

Hi ,
I have the Jet JWBS-16X The access to the guide bolts is not the best but easy to do, there is plenty of access from the rear. I ground down an Allen key to make life easier. Changing the cap heads to set bolts would make it easier still (why did I not think of it). Its only very occasionally that I have had to move the guide block anyway.

Only other comments are , don't use the supplied blade it was rubbish! I have to use it on a 16amp supply because when it was plugged into a 13amp supply it struggled to get going, don't know why but putting it onto the workshop 16amp supply cured it. At first I was not very impressed with the results I got from the saw , but with advice from here and Ian from Tuffsaw and his blades it does a very very good job . Its well made quality bit of kit , hope that helps

Hi Boz, thank you. Agreed, I've always used Ian's blades, they are a world better than any others I've ever had. What are your general comments on the Bandsaw? Are there any niggles at all?
Thanks, Dave.

 

[MikeJhn]

Hi Mike,
no you haven't missed anything and the Alex Snodgrass method is the best I have seen.

If the blade gullet can be positioned in the centre of the top wheel, then the bottom guides will not have to be moved forward or back. Some bandsaws have narrower wheels and with larger blades, the gullet may sit more forward on the top wheel than in the centre to avoid overhanging the back of the wheel. If that is so, then the lower guide assembly needs moving slightly.
Malcolm

I see what you are saying, I only have experience of the wide wheels on the Record Bandsaw's, if indeed the top wheel is narrow and the blade overhangs the back, this could indeed cause a problem that would mean moving the blade forward off the crown of the wheel, at which point the side guides would have to be moved as close to the gullet as possible to provide the correct support.

Thanks for clarifying that, appreciated.

Mike