Jet 260 Planer Thicknesser Problem - NOW FIXED!

[wizer]

I can't quite believe this. But just days after advising Karl that the Jet 260 doesn't have a lock on the thicknessing bed and that I've never felt the need for one.... It's started to drop?

Today I was thicknessing a whole bunch of sycamore, about 40 x 40mm long planks. As I was getting up to half way through, each pass seemed to not take off as much as the last. To the point where the last 5 or 6 boards just fed through without touching the knives. When I looked at the wheel, I could visibly see it turning backwards.

I've never had anything like this happen before. It's weird because when I was surfacing the boards in planing mode yesterday, I was having problems keeping a board flat. It seemed to want to make the board crowned, even if I started with a cupped board?

I'm sure the two problems are not related... But help, PLEASE !!

 

[misterfish]

I have the same problem with my Record 'Former RD 26'. I now feed the stock into the thicknesser and then hold the height control crank handle to stop it rotating. It's a right pain in the ar**! I would also like to know how to 'stiffen it up'

Misterfish

 

[wizer]

The only thing I can think of is to use a wedge to hold the handle in place. But there must be a reason it's started to drop after three years. It's right in the middle of a big job too :evil:

 

[Nick.]

Hi Tom, I've never heard of this before but will call our service dept in the morning to ask if they come across it or have any ideas?

I take it your knives are sharp enough? Not that blunt knives should be able to force the bed down, but just one possible cause?

Hope all is well too, and I'll get back to you tomorrow morning

Cheers
Nick

 

[wizer]

Cheers Nick. I'd appreciate some help. Did I say three years? I meant three months

The knives are probably near to needing a sharpen. Not least because I nicked the blades this afternoon :x

Cheers. Let me know what they say.

 

[Karl]

It'd be interesting to see if there's an outcome to this problem Tom.

I was surprised that there was no table lock on the Jet. It's a simple (and presumably) cheap feature to add, and it just doesn't make sense to not have one.

Might see how feasible it'd be to add your own :wink:

Cheers

Karl

 

[wizer]

Yes, as I say, it's never been a problem before. I do wonder why they didn't include it on the 260.

I've had a quick look at the 310 manual to see how the locking mechanism works. It's certainly beyond my feeble skills.

 

[9fingers]

Tom,

I think the US version of the planer is the JJP12 -ok yours is 260mm but I think it is basically the same.

Manual here http://content.wmhtoolgroup.com/manuals/708475_m.pdf

On page 10 you can see there is a lock for the table adjustment.

I'm very surprised that Jet have not fitted on the UK model. IMHO, unless there is a worm drive used which is inherently self locking, every adjustment on a machine should lock positively.

Maybe Jetman can get you some US parts to modify it to the US standard.

Bob

 

[wizer]

No Bob. It's on the 12" UK Version (and 14"). But not the 10"/260 version.

EDIT: It looks like the 10" isn't available in the US

 

[Karl]

Tom - I wasn't thinking of anything as lavish as the spindle lock shown on the 12" models. More some kind of device which sits on the machine body underneath the thicknessing table and, using a bristol lever, clamps onto the rise and fall column to stop it moving.

Does that make sense?

Cheers

Karl

 

[9fingers]

Ah! So it looks like it was left off to get the 10" model down to a price.

Not the sort of trick I expect from Jet

At least you could investigate the mechanism on the larger models and copy it for your machine.

Good luck

Bob

 

[would not]

Seems like an easy fix from the parts drawings. It looks like a threaded shaft with a brass/plastic end that presses against the column. If you can't get the parts from the USA then I can't see it being a major job to make one.

The other way to retro fit a lock is to alter the winding hadle with a locking ring.

The winding handle is connected to bevel gears so with no lock they will shake and allow the table to drop. It's probably held until now from being new and stiff, now it's loosened up it's moving

EDIT. On looking at the drawings again I think the better way is to put a locking ring on the winding handle.

 

[wizer]

I'm trying to think of a way to get the rest of this stock prepped. Would something like a scissor jack hold the table in place while the problem is investigated?

 

[Ironballs]

You could try some quick style clamps in spreader mode, that may hold it in place. Usual caveats/warnings about having anything loose and/or metal near your thicknesser when using it

 

[wizer]

yes that could work. I'd probably need four tho wouldn't i? Just one might skew the table.

 

[Ironballs]

Indeed, and you'd want them well out of the way at the sides to avoid timber sliding into them and jamming

 

[9fingers]

How about a pair of wide folding wedges with a U shaped slot cut from the narrow edge in each. use these to wedge the hub of the adjusting handle with respect to the casing.

Bob

 

[wizer]

mm not impressed now I've thought about it. I hope Nick can give me an answer. I really don't feel like mucking about with Heath Robinson devices to use a P/T which is barely three years old.

 

[9fingers]

Tom you asked for a solution to get the current batch done.
It was in that context that I suggested folding wedges.

Bob

 

[Karl]

I'd certainly be interested to find out whether the table locking mechanism could be retro fitted to the 260. I can't see why it wouldn't be possible.

Cheers

Karl