Is a split router fence really neccessary?

[AFFF]

Use mine occasionally with a shimmed outfeed fence for jointing.

 

[Droogs]

For people considering making their own fence and don't or can't have T-track etc for dept adjustment, consider getting one of the Parkside clamping and sawing guide rails. These will allow you to clamp the sides of the router table and can have a guide fence attached very easily

 

[stuart little]

I wasn't clear. If I omitted the use of the fence cheeks (the black components in those images) - can you use the fence on it's own so to speak? Does the fence connect down to the table with a T bolt? Thanks for replying.

The black components are the T-slots that fix to the sides of the table. I guess they could be omitted, but T-slots would need cutting in the table top. B y 'cheeks' I referred to the two adjustable halves of the fence. I made my table top to accept all parts.
Stuart

 

[Hornbeam]

I would go for a straight through fence like Mikes or the one in the attached link
You can the add sliding cheeks to the front to open/close the opening around the cutter. I cut horizontal slots in the back fence and recessed holes in the sliding cheeks for coach bolts through to locking levers
A simple set of plastic shims will allow you to move the outfeed fence out if require
See link of teh arrangement on mine
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/jessem-router-lift-and-auk-router.114870/

 

[mikej460]

I would go for a straight through fence like Mikes or the one in the attached link
You can the add sliding cheeks to the front to open/close the opening around the cutter. I cut horizontal slots in the back fence and recessed holes in the sliding cheeks for coach bolts through to locking levers
A simple set of plastic shims will allow you to move the outfeed fence out if require
See link of teh arrangement on mine
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/jessem-router-lift-and-auk-router.114870/

Impressive build and review Ian, is the split fence two separate cheeks or do they slide in the fixed rail above them? I'm thinking that if so it would add rigidity to the split fence.

Also, could you possibly send me details of your fine adjuster please?

 

[ike]

I have the same pattern table (different branding). I get on OK with the split fence. One small thing that helps is to file a small chamfer on the edge of the outfence. I used to get the workpiece catching on the leading edge. I found the fine adjusters OK to use by backing off and winding forwards with the thumbscrew lightly on. It's not a bad piece of kit but at it's pricepoint, a little finesse helps a lot. Mine's a good workhorse coupled with a Hitachi M12V.

 

[Hornbeam]

Hi Mike. The fence is a simple straight through fence made from 18mm birch ply. The fence is 120mm high with a centre cut out 100mm wide and 100mm high. There are 2 slots in each side of the fence 8mm X 60mm, A 20mm wide piece of birch ply runs across at the top.
The cheeks have 8mm holes which are recessed for coach bolt heads. Coach bolts have bristol levers to tighten/loosen cheeks for adjustment
Fine adjustment is created by a second angle fitted behind the main fence with 8mm threaded rod joining the two and teh brass thumb wheels. For find adjustment you lock the back angle and then the main fence can be screwed in or out on each side using the thumb wheels. (I sometimes forget which way to turn them) Unless the fence has to be straight across then only adjusting on one side increases the fineness of te adjuster as the fence only moves half as much in the centre as at the end as it pivots

 

[MikeJhn]

I wasn't clear. If I omitted the use of the fence cheeks (the black components in those images) - can you use the fence on it's own so to speak? Does the fence connect down to the table with a T bolt? Thanks for replying.

To answer your question No, the large black knobs fit into the side members that you have to fit to the sides of the table see from page 21 here: https://cdn.axminstertools.com/medi...MCvGKHtoSheODf3UMQssrZhjrHi9vL-xoCllcQAvD_BwE