Iroko preparation.

[Phill joiner]

I just sprayed some iroko gates with a clear oil from morrells and it's taken four days to dry. After speaking to them and asking some advise I was told that I should of de greased the gates first...... With thinners!
Anyone else heard of this technique. Seems a bit strange to rub thinners on the gates and then put oil on top.

 

[beech1948]

Iroko.....degrease first, tack off quickly, oil or whatever.

 

[RobinBHM]

We routinely use a fast panel wipe on iroko before applying primer.

The degreasing agent removes extractives from the pores of the wood. It should be done within 2 hours of spraying so the basecoat fills the grain.

I dont know if thats the reason for your slow drying issue.

 

[Phill joiner]

I've used Danish oil in the past with no problems. Haven't heard of wiping down with thinners first though. I'd of thought that it would go milky colour after wiping down with thinners.
I'm applying a clear coat oil finish.

 

[RobinBHM]

The degreasing agent evaporates before you spray, so it doesnt have any affect on the finish.

I use this brand
http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/u-p ... -226-p.asp

I wouldtest your morrells product on a piece of different timber, a piece of iroko and a piece of iroko degreased and compare how the finish dries.

Is it omnia?

 

[ColeyS1]

I always use meths before finishing iroko now. Sadolins or sikkens use to take over a week to dry with good airflow, using meths and it's proper dry after a couple with no extra ventilation . Done a few jobs lately where they've just left it natural - looks good after its been left to weather evenly.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[Phill joiner]

Thanks for the help guys you have been very helpful as usual.

Not Omnia......... Its a brand new product from morrells. Cant remember the name now sorry. I think its weather uv30 .

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

We use Acetone before spraying Iroko it makes a huge difference

 

[Keith 66]

As a boatbuilder i have used a lot of Iroko, i have never thought it to be an oily wood in fact far from it!
Well seasoned stuff tends to be rather dry. In fact the dust from old stuff is positively lethal & comes of the saw or planer like smoke.
I have never degreased it & never had any problems with paint or varnish.
However a few years ago i built a rowing skiff & used Iroko to fit her out, it was old well seasoned stuff & very dry, I used a modern micro porous finish, Johnstones woodstain.
This was in the workshop & a full week after i put the first coat on it was still very sticky, it simply wouldnt cure.
In the end i put the boat outside in the wind & sun & it dried in one day, next coat from the same can went on fine & was also dry in a day.
Teak on the other hand now thats what i call oily!