Idiiot sander query

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MorrisWoodman12

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I have recently bought a Rexon EDS-300A 12" 300mm Disc Sander and am quite happy with it. However I have a tendency to burn the wood I am sanding. At an evening class in Uckfield I attend there is an Axminster 300mm sander and I only burn the wood if I stupidly try to remove too much at a time and much more than I am trying on the Rexon. Why? Should I try a different grit paper? Is there something else I am missing (other than a few brain cells?). Any advice gratefully received.
 
A few reasons. A course grit gets less hot than a fine grit. The rexon may run faster than the axminster so something to check. The outside of the disk is moving faster than closer to the center so if it's burning then move towards the center of the disk. It also pays to scrub the disk with a rubber whenever you see a buildup of dust clogging the grit. And last dust extraction helps prevent buildup of gunk on the grit, helps keep gritty dust out of the machines innards and is good for you too.
Regards
John
 
Is it the same wood?
For example Rosewood burns very quickly with sanding because its so dense it retains the heat.
Walnut doesnt burn any where near as quick, even though its still hardwood.

Everything affects this, even to how much pressure you apply
 
Alexam":3flrn2jo said:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Charnwood-BC01-Sanding-Sleeve-Cleaner/dp/B005M2A8OO that's the cleaning stick. Take it slowly and let the disc do the work.

... or get a tube of silicone sealant for a quid. open it and let it go hard. Save yourself £17.50.
 
NazNomad":z20bgax2 said:
Alexam":z20bgax2 said:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Charnwood-BC01-Sanding-Sleeve-Cleaner/dp/B005M2A8OO that's the cleaning stick. Take it slowly and let the disc do the work.

... or get a tube of silicone sealant for a quid. open it and let it go hard. Save yourself £17.50.
For any reading who are fond of the vino I've heard that synthetic corks work well for this too. Not had the chance to try it but potentially a free method for doing same.
 
NazNomad":1m3ad2qh said:
Alexam":1m3ad2qh said:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Charnwood-BC01-Sanding-Sleeve-Cleaner/dp/B005M2A8OO that's the cleaning stick. Take it slowly and let the disc do the work.

... or get a tube of silicone sealant for a quid. open it and let it go hard. Save yourself £17.50.
Have you actually done this, does it work?
Are we talking about the bathroom type sealant that never completely hardens, or something else?
 
Just about anything rubbery works to clean sanding discs and belts. The soles of old shoes and bits of rubber mat have been used to clean my sanders.
Regards
John
 
pcb1962":1fjsab45 said:
NazNomad":1fjsab45 said:
Alexam":1fjsab45 said:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Charnwood-BC01-Sanding-Sleeve-Cleaner/dp/B005M2A8OO that's the cleaning stick. Take it slowly and let the disc do the work.

... or get a tube of silicone sealant for a quid. open it and let it go hard. Save yourself £17.50.
Have you actually done this, does it work?
Are we talking about the bathroom type sealant that never completely hardens, or something else?

Just the general purpose white silicone sealant that, when it 'cures' is like a 12'' rubber phallus. I'll post a pic of mine later... MY SILICONE, go bleach your mind.
 
I think mine came from Poundland. I made a few slits in the tube and left it for a couple of weeks. Threaded a wire through it and it hangs on my sander table.

[youtube]MhgC7Hnb0qM[/youtube]
 
I asked on here about those Axi cleaning sticks when I first joined some time back and was told that a short length of old-fashioned rubber/textile garden hose worked just as well. As it so happened I had a length of that stuff. I tried it and it does work OK.

But later, when I needed to "bulk up" an order for shipping costs reasons, I ordered the Axi stick. That works very well too - perhaps a bit better than the rubber hose does.

BUT, in both cases, I found one small "trouble". The residue from the cleaning stick tends to crumble into little "half-hard balls" which then clog up any internals on the sander (I'm talking about a little 5 inch disc/belt sander here). As those little crumbly balls are a bit sticky I find it a bit of a fiddle to get them out of the machine, even with a shop vac - for example, especially around the bottom of the casing where the belt and drive wheel run - the clearances are quite small on this little machine.

But as a belt & disc cleaner, both work well and significantly extend the life of the abrasive. I now use the cleaner almost every time after I've used the sander - and or course, you can use the same cleaner of other items such as sanding drums, even the little Dremel drums.

HTH

AES
 
I just remembered seeing someone (Izzy Swan, maybe?) using the crépe sole of an old trainer. Tried that and it works well, but looks ridiculous. :-D
 
AES":34my8pmd said:
... tends to crumble into little "half-hard balls" which then clog up any internals on the sander.

Of course, if you can keep your balls out of the sander, that's a bonus.
 
NazNomad":20bbprzq said:
AES":20bbprzq said:
... tends to crumble into little "half-hard balls" which then clog up any internals on the sander.

Of course, if you can keep your balls out of the sander, that's a bonus.

It also helps if you reverse the belt TEMPORARILY whilst you clean it. I do this on my Makita handheld belt sander (as swapping is very quick), and the cleaning effect (with the Axy crepe stick) is so good it looks new afterwards. That's with 80-grit - the effect varies with the grit size a bit.

And I walk almost normally...
 
Yeah, the Axi cleaning stick is made of crepe "rubber" - but a much harder/denser crepe than I seem to remember on my BCs (those were the days!).

AES
 
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