I got hold of some green wood today. PVA glue as a sealer?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Andy's Shed

Established Member
Joined
13 Aug 2022
Messages
388
Reaction score
790
Location
York
I got hold of some recently cut Silver Birch earlier today, I cut the pith out while I was there, rather than make a racket in my back garden. I also got some large-ish bits of fallen Oak on my way back home. There's still more Oak to be had, it's just a bit tricky using the chainsaw on the edge of a ditch. 🙂

Will PVA glue be OK to use as and end grain sealer and can it be watered down a little? I've used Beeswax on some other bits that I have, but it seems a bit expensive and it was a faff to use.


20230902_123247.jpg20230902_135618.jpg

20230902_135614.jpg
 
I have used waterproof when set pva, dilute it to thin, next day give second coat. I've also used any old stuff, water based gloss or satin paint - last lot was leftover lurid green - speed is probably more important than perfection so using what you have to hand is better than waiting a few days. Wax looks nice, but presumably this is for your own use so it doesn't matter what it looks like.

You can have fun with small pieces of green wood, turn fresh, microwave on low power for 60 to 120 seconds a few times letting it cool and evaporate between each go, final cut and finish - enjoy. Sometimes it distorts, sometimes it cracks, sometimes you get really interesting results.
 
Thanks all.

I don't think we have any old paint knocking around, so I'll try the glue.
I've just checked and it's Evo-Stick Interior wood adhesive that I have, it doesn’t seem to mention PVA, I just made an assumption that it was?
 
I find I have a much higher success rate rough turning stuff, then PVA and letting it dry compared with drying as whole pieces. Far quicker too. Once dry, turn a second time.
 
I find I have a much higher success rate rough turning stuff, then PVA and letting it dry compared with drying as whole pieces. Far quicker too. Once dry, turn a second time.
I did that with one bit of oak last week and it's sat in a bucket full of shavings now to dry out.

As I'm still very new to turning, I'm never quite sure what I want to try and turn next, that's making me a bit reluctant to rough turn several pieces in advance. That said though, I suppose the blank itself often dictates what it's going to be?

Edit: I'd sooner just use a single coat of glue, can I still water it down and achieve this? What ratio?
 
Last edited:
When I started turning I was told to get the proper end grain sealer. Thought it was a bit pricey. Anyhow when that tin ran out I followed the advice of some others that said use whatever you have. Paint, out of date glue or end grain sealer I cant say any one is better than the other. All are better than not sealing. Wax has also been mentioned but I have avoided that on safety grounds. large cauldrons of boiling oil in a woodworking space is not a comforting image for me.
Regards
John
 
Thanks John. I've given the wood at least 3 coats of 50/50 PVA and water mix, the Oak was quite thirsty so had some extra.
Hopefully that'll do the job, but I'll peek under the tarp from time to time and see how it goes.
 
PVA works reasonably well and can be used on wet wood. When I use it I add a little water to make it easier to brush on. I don't tend to use it often as I have a wax bath (old slow cooker) I can use to dip my blanks so only the really big ones which are too big to dip get the PVA treatment.
 
Really slather on the PVA and cover the end few inches of bark as well. Two coats is definitely worth doing. My cousin was a pro turner and he rough turned everything green then put it into a cool place for a few months before turning out the warps and finishing them.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top