How would you make this?

[novocaine]

ah but you aren't a large company that can say "you didn't follow the instructions about checking the bands so no refund for you".

I don't think I'd want to make it, I'd suggest the cost would be greater than buying it from the company shown to a potential customer and walk away. to many possible head aches and costs in the future for a small firm to deal with.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

... if it's used all year round you'll be pumping moisture in to the wood all year anyway so it shouldn't see large seasonal variance.

If you take a piece of timber out of a sauna working 12/7 and cut it it will be bone dry.

 

[peter-harrison]

It's a barrel, and barrels work, even big ones, so this will too. Part of the solution is that the ends are made like a ledge and brace door, so that they won't expand width-wise. Then the only expansion and contraction you have to deal with is in the thickness of the staves.

 

[screwpainting]

I think you would need to be a Proffesoonal to make one of those :wink:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Miaow.

 

[Beau]

It's a barrel, and barrels work, even big ones, so this will too. Part of the solution is that the ends are made like a ledge and brace door, so that they won't expand width-wise. Then the only expansion and contraction you have to deal with is in the thickness of the staves.

Agreed barrels work but a small barrel has 6 steel bands that are every bit as thick if not thicker on something just a few feet high plus they are wet all the time. You see old ones cut up for garden planters and they dry out and bands come lose.

 

[ColeyS1]

I think you would need to be a Proffesoonal to make one of those :wink:

That did make me chuckle.

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[Beau]

... if it's used all year round you'll be pumping moisture in to the wood all year anyway so it shouldn't see large seasonal variance.

If you take a piece of timber out of a sauna working 12/7 and cut it it will be bone dry.

OK I am surprised by this but it still leaves the problem of when they dont use it mid winter and everything gets wet again. Outside and directly exposed to the elements around here that would be 20% moisture content. Then mid summer and they are using 8-10% ? Thats are a fair bit of seasonal movement.

 

[Beau]

I think you would need to be a Proffesoonal to make one of those :wink:

That did make me chuckle.

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Come on chaps what's the joke? For info I was a pro for many years only recently been doing other work to make ends meet.

 

[ColeyS1]

Pm sent


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[Beau]

ah but you aren't a large company that can say "you didn't follow the instructions about checking the bands so no refund for you".

I don't think I'd want to make it, I'd suggest the cost would be greater than buying it from the company shown to a potential customer and walk away. to many possible head aches and costs in the future for a small firm to deal with.

Yes tempted to walk away but going to look at all options first as I would be charging appreciably more than the one in the link at the start.

 

[dynax]

I think you would need to be a Proffesoonal to make one of those :wink:

That did make me chuckle.

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Come on chaps what's the joke? For info I was a pro for many years only recently been doing other work to make ends meet.

this one :mrgreen: forum-for-proffesoonals-t112064.html

 

[Beau]

this one :mrgreen: forum-for-proffesoonals-t112064.html

Not this forums finest hour IMO

 

[ColeyS1]

What about using plain boring tongue and grooves.

Something like this would allow loads of movement and a screw in the middle of each board would keep them in position.
A couple laminated frames on the inside would give you something to fix to.

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[Tasky]

Now where do you buy really big jubilee clips ?

Well..... any decent manufacturer of sewer rehabilitation materials... usually the Germans. May sound laughable, but we use them on our brick and wedgeblock pipes up to 11 metre diameters. You also get re-rounding clips that work from the inside.

Only downside is that they cost more than I earn in a year...!! :lol:

 

[novocaine]

wouldn't you have to cut the tongue and groove at an angle of 1 degree for 360 segments? which is why they've gone with the "ball and socket" design instead.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I think you would need to be a Proffesoonal to make one of those :wink:

That did make me chuckle.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Come on chaps what's the joke? For info I was a pro for many years only recently been doing other work to make ends meet.

Ah, yes but were you a professional or a proffesoonal?

 

[ColeyS1]

wouldn't you have to cut the tongue and groove at an angle of 1 degree for 360 segments? which is why they've gone with the "ball and socket" design instead.

Yeah I guess. Just trying to think of another way to not rely on the bands not holding it together.

1 degree is about 5mm or 300mm . Not sure what that would be on that radius and width boards

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[Beau]

wouldn't you have to cut the tongue and groove at an angle of 1 degree for 360 segments? which is why they've gone with the "ball and socket" design instead.

Not a problem as I have a tilting spindle. Must admit the T & G route does appeal from the structural side of things. Not sure it looks as nice though. All those curves add something that T & G lacks.

 

[Brtone]

I know round is the novelty, but, I built some saunas years ago and would not attempt anything but square, the heat, steam, moisture is a massive strain on what ever timber used, the boards can crack, warp and simply pull away from fixings under the constant high temps. I would look for some sort of plastic if I were to make anymore, could be cladded in timber.