How would you fix this?

[Bingy man]

@Bingy man , you are talking about lightweight doors, hollow core, which should/will have lock blocks, I was just outlining that this isn't always the case, the ones I fitted were "solid" doors, as I said in my post, but not that solid, hence why I use the through bolt option rather than just rely on the tiny wood screws supplied.

I hear you @HOJ and wasn’t in any way inferring that you were wrong in your advice- if the doors you fitted recently had no markings on as to which side the lock block is fitted is it the case that there are blocks both sides?? Reason I ask is I’m fitting 3 so called solid doors next week that are quite expensive for a customer and certainly don’t want to make any mistakes. The bolt through door handles you and others mention I’ve used previously are a better choice but for me can be quite fiddly to fit .

 

[Nail]

I hear you @HOJ and wasn’t in any way inferring that you were wrong in your advice- if the doors you fitted recently had no markings on as to which side the lock block is fitted is it the case that there are blocks both sides?? Reason I ask is I’m fitting 3 so called solid doors next week that are quite expensive for a customer and certainly don’t want to make any mistakes. The bolt through door handles you and others mention I’ve used previously are a better choice but for me can be quite fiddly to fit .

There’s also a style of handle where the square bar has a split in each end then a grub screw in the handle tightens into that split, effectively making it work as a through bolt.
Pretty effective.

 

[Bingy man]

There’s also a style of handle where the square bar has a split in each end then a grub screw in the handle tightens into that split, effectively making it work as a through bolt.
Pretty effective.

I've seen these ( the spindle I assume) I’ve was wondering what the point of the split was . As usual on this forum you learn something new every day

 

[Nail]

Yes, the spindle. Early morning brain fog - I couldn’t think of the correct name!

Just ensure that the spindle is orientated so that the grub screw sits in the dipped side of the groove so that it spreads correctly.

 

[user 36896]

As the lock block may only be on one side, it might be possible that you have put the hinges on the lock side. As Doug 71 has said it is advisable to check before you hang tapping the surface of the door lightly with a hammer or using the handle end of a chisel. Best of luck.

 

[Tris]

Probably a silly question and no help to the op, but would drilling a 3 mm hole from the side of the door be enough to check for a lock block?

I'm thinking if it breaks through in 30mm or so you've got an answer, and 3mm is a small hole to plug

 

[Agent_zed]

could change the handle for one with a standard large rectangle backplate. They are generally stronger as less leverage on the fixings.

Or fit a doorplate over the area and screw the handle onto that e.g Finger Plate Satin Aluminium 75 x 300mm - Screwfix

or perhaps one of these Fire Door Keep Shut Sign 76mm - Screwfix turned around so it looks like it should be behind the round handle

 

[rs6mra]

I think I might look at changing the lock and also using a finger plate.

Many thanks to you all.

 

[Graham Brazier]

As above , insert a wooden block from the edge by cutting away the timber edge leaving the outer skin intact

Insert block glued and clamp , re fit handle and lock

 

[Bingy man]

@Bingy man , you are talking about lightweight doors, hollow core, which should/will have lock blocks, I was just outlining that this isn't always the case, the ones I fitted were "solid" doors, as I said in my post, but not that solid, hence why I use the through bolt option rather than just rely on the tiny wood screws supplied.

I have to eat a little humble pie ( ) as i recently fitted some solid doors and as per your post there was no reference as to which side the lock block was fitted . Even the website for the maker of the doors didn’t give any mention of a lock block - it all worked out in the end but credit where credit is due. Handles were the bolt through type . We live and learn

 

[HOJ]

I have to eat a little humble pie

@Bingy man only just seen this, there is no need for that statement, pleased it worked out for you.

We live and learn

Everyday.

 

[RWoody]

Hi RS6MRA

To be frank, and not to criticise what's already there, whether the wrong side of the door had the handle fitted or not, you have to deal with the problem, except I don't see it as too much of a problem. Sure you could buy a new door, but that would require not just expense and hassle fitting, when in fact personally I have another way to tackle it, which I believe will result in the door continuing in use:

If it were my own job, I'd get some wooden batons (2 or 3) that I'd insert into the hollowed-out door, and stick them in position (using your preferred adhesive), to form something to screw into, behind the outer surface, so that you have some thicker, more substantial wood, into which you can screw. You could effectively insert wood for most of the width; and what screw holes don't provide anything of much substance for the screws to bite into, will be much strengthened and supported by all the others - and there seem to be quite a few.

Now you have adequate 'backing' for the screws to hold on to, and have more than adequate strength between them to maintain structural integrity.

If you were to adhere the wooden batons either side first, finishing with the centre piece (which you can put a small screw into, to hold it while you position and 'pull' it towards you, so there are no gaps, and hence the screws have something to bite into, then it should be good, and solid.

Then when fully dry, you can 'gently' drill out the centre, where the squared metal shaft would go. But remember to first hold that wood with screws (the ones used for the handle itself) to hold, as you apply pressure to drill out the centre hole.

This is indeed salvageable, and not that difficult, or costly, to do.

I hope it helps?

* Sorry guys, it's quite a late post this one, and I didn't see all the others, so you have probably now sorted it out!

 

[stuckinthemud]

What RWoody said. Totally fixable, you can tack the wood infill in place with gel type cyano (superglue)