How would you duplicate this?

[RogerM]

This is some fine detail off the side of a cabinet I spotted in a shop window in Pimlico.

I want to incorporate it in an oak bookcase, set in to the surface so that both sides are flush like the right hand side of the feature. How would you set about it? My best guess is to create the 1/2 round inset on the router table and then carefully cut into it with an appropriate sized gouge - but how would you create the hemispherical bit in the middle? All ideas gratefully received.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I'd use gouges (lookup pea moulding, I thimk) but with my carving skills, probably quicker and better results could be had by feeding it to the dog.

Given that you sound power tooled up, and depending on the size of this, I wonder if a flat bit could be filed to cut both pea and field in one operation?

Steve

 

[Paul.J]

Are the round bits seperate pieces glued on after or is it all one piece :?:

 

[RogerM]

Are the round bits seperate pieces glued on after or is it all one piece :?:

Paul - the round bits are all part of the original piece of wood.

.......Given that you sound power tooled up, and depending on the size of this, I wonder if a flat bit could be filed to cut both pea and field in one operation?

Steve

Steve - you mean maybe in a drill press? I have a basic press, but it's very feeble. My guess is that teh width of the overall mopulding is about 15mm - 20 mm. Difficult to tell precisely through the window of a closed shop!

 

[Steve Maskery]

How very interesting!

I would mould the staff bead as you say, and then either carve out the hollows or use a bobbin sander. Probably both.

As for the pips, I'd get a length of dowel, round the end and cut off 10mm and set it into a hole. The only giveaway would be that it would be endgrain. I guess you could cut face-grain plugs, but more of a faff to round over, wouldn't you say?

If that original is cut from the solid in one piece, then it was either hand-carved, which is impressive, or cut with a fly-cutter on a drilling machine, which would be decidedly tricky without a centre drill to work on.

S

 

[Paul.J]

That's how i made something similar years ago as Steve describes.
I made a jig to hold the piece of bead and used a bobbin sander with the appropiate sized bob in and just pushed against a back fence so it would only go to the depth required.
The little round bits were made by cutting a length across the grain about 8" long by 1/4" square,and rounded roughly,but carefully on the sander and finished by hand,held in a vice and then cut off on the bandsaw.
I think i used fine pins to hold the bead on the jig where the small round bits would be fitted to hide the holes.

 

[RogerM]

How very interesting!

I would mould the staff bead as you say, and then either carve out the hollows or use a bobbin sander. Probably both.

As for the pips, I'd get a length of dowel, round the end and cut off 10mm and set it into a hole. The only giveaway would be that it would be endgrain. I guess you could cut face-grain plugs, but more of a faff to round over, wouldn't you say?

If that original is cut from the solid in one piece, then it was either hand-carved, which is impressive, or cut with a fly-cutter on a drilling machine, which would be decidedly tricky without a centre drill to work on.

S

Steve - the original full size photo may help.

If possible I'd like to keep the grain in the same direction and as it will be in English Oak I'm not sure where I'd get the dowel from anyway. There has to be a simple answer - it's just a case of thinking of it, unless of course it is yet another example of fine craftsmanship that we have forgotten how to do.

Whilst you are about it, if you have any idea as to how you would tackle the Linen Fold, please feel free to elucidate!

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Roger,

colincott over on the 'other side' could tell you how it's done - he's a furniture restorer and carver. He's no doubt come across that carving many times and has probably had to make pieces.

There are a couple of variations of that moulding in "Planecraft" and, from what they say, it's all done with carving gouges after forming the main moulding with a plane.

Hope that helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yes, looking at that picture I'd say it was all hand work. The gaps between the various buttons don't look the same, although that could be the camera.

Amazing work.

As to the linen fold. this was trad done with rounds and hollows, the top and bottom flat areas routed out with an OWT.

Today you can buy router cutters to do the job, but it still doesn't cut them for you I've never done linenfold, a bit trad for me, but as I get older I'm getting more trad myself. I've made a small box in mahogany this week, as well as having fun with 19th century milk paint recipes (on traditional MDF).

If you tackle this one, remember, you didn't actually do it unless there are pics to prove it!

Cheers
Steve

 

[Chris Knight]

I don't know how this was done but the linenfold is very poor quality and the carved beads look very regular - I would say it was probably done by some sort of machine.

Both linenfold and the beading can be hand carved. The beading design as shown is quite easy - linenfold is more complex if genuine good quality work is required.

 

[lostintheforest]

Trend do some pip cutters in the proffessional tct range, you might be able to rout the pips then chisel the rest out.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/IE/productlist/4/1610/Pip Cutters.html

 

[CNC Paul]

Roger,

If the moulding is part of the stiles and rails it would possible have been done by hand.

If you wanted a strip to apply you could do it with a small ovolo cutter and a jig to hold the strip, the jig would have a hole to suit a router collar central to the strip ....... run the router around to form the PIP, the strip could have the half round formed with the ovolo cutter. Finally you could pare down either side of the pip with a chisel.


Clear as mud


Paul

 

[Woodmagnet]

I would use a plug cutter instead of dowels. :wink:

 

[CNC Paul]

Roger,

You could even use some of these .......
http://plugitdowel.co.uk/mushroom.cfm


Paul

 

[norman]

Hi

If this came to me as a job I would cut the curve either with a router cutter and jig or by hand depending on the ammounts to do. The center bead turn a lenth of matching grain wood carve or sand the beads as required cut off and mount in place ,taking note of the grain direction.

A bit of a fiddle but not that big a job.

Regards
Norman

 

[CWatters]

I like Steves idea of grinding a profile on a large flat drill bit to cut the hollow and pip in one go..but is there a risk of it twisting the pip off?

 

[RogerM]

Thanks guys for all your contributions. Most helpful.

I think linen folds would be too fussy in the sides of a bookcase, although I love them in the side panels of blanket chests, so that's a project for the future.

What I have planned is some furniture for the lounge in English Oak ( I have 25 cu ft sticked up in the garage) and I'm looking for a common theme to incorporate, starting with a bookcase, and this beading caught my eye and I was wondering how it was done. I think if I was to try it, I'd cut the 1/2 round bead on the router table, cut the pips with a pip cutter, and then pare around them with a gouge. Not entirely certain it's worth the trouble, and once started I'd be past the point of no return. I may just try it on an offcut to satisfy my curiosity tho'. That would also give me a clue as to the time involved and whether it was worth the effort.

However, I can't help thinking that some simple flutes may be a more elegant solution, and so very much easier and quicker to make, although as I'm making this for ourselves time is not a consideration - I'm happy for it to take as long as it takes.