How to use a 3 1/2 panel router bit

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devonwoody

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I purchased the 6 piece Rutland door and drawer router bit offer this week TR302 and it includes the 3 1/2" panel cutting bit.

To be honest I dont know how to use this bit (and some of the others)

My router table has an opening aperture of 3" but an indented hole of 3 1/2" as per picture. The router bit fits the collet OK and I can just get some clearance on my Triton router table providing I do not have to drop the bit down.

The bit is very deep cutting, around 32mm and I do not expect to want to do a panel moulding on timber thicker than 3/4". Is this possible with this type of bit and my table set up.

So your advice is sought. Perhaps Argee the Triton demo man knows something about the table I use?
 

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You could make an additional table plate with a larger hole on it from ply or MDF to fit on top and cover the Triton table. This will give you the correct clearance for the bit and you'll be able to set the bit height to what you need. Run the router at the correct speed for that large cutter - it should be marked on it and will probably be as slow as the router will go. Best to read-up/ research what all your new bits are for and how to use them before diving in and possibly making a big mistake or worse putting yourself in danger.
 
Many thanks Roger, the Australian forum came up with the same answer.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/3-1-2 ... ost1387760

It appears a 5mm masonite board fixed does the trick.

\Mind you Rutlands are a bit naughty the email (not the web page) described the set as a cabinet and drawer set. But it is actually a door and drawer set which conveys to me a different set up. Cabinets are smaller than doors.

So that problem should be solved, planning on making around 6 nightstands next year for some of the family.
 
You'll need great care with this John. With a false table, you possibly won't be able to use your fence as any sort of guard.
Make sure your lead in pin is fitted through a hole in the false table.


Bob
 
Is it too late to send the set back? You can get a vertical, panel moulding bit, this allows the fence to be moved back a bit at a time to increase the depth of cut.

I personally don`t like these large horizontal panel raising bits in router tables for a few reasons, not least that they put quite a strain on the router.


Cheers.
 
I'd take a different approach, as this has a back cutter you can't adjust the height in and nibble away a bit at a time that way. I'd set the height and move the fence in, therefore allowing you to guard it over the top and use a zero clearance fence

Aidan
 
I did consider a return but the smaller 3" bits do not have much raise and the Australian says my triton table will be ok with a 5mm false top, (the fence will sit on top of the false top)
Might go in for some body armour tho.
 
I get the impression that the top small cutter (which should put a revere towards the centre of the panel) migh be removable, there is a top nut plus a bearing below this cutter.

Is this so?

Studders I dont think you could cut it in one go, I assume it is fed across the large gutter with a fence preventing the whole bit being brought to bare?
 
devonwoody":k4jjxuuv said:
I get the impression that the top small cutter (which should put a revere towards the centre of the panel) migh be removable, there is a top nut plus a bearing below this cutter.

Is this so?

Almost, it makes an undercut on the back of the panel. You could remove it, but you'd then need a spacer to make up the difference plus the panel would need to be cut deeper on top to fit the grove.
Studders I dont think you could cut it in one go, I assume it is fed across the large gutter with a fence preventing the whole bit being brought to bare?
You could try but I wouldn't recommend it. :)
Yes it used with the fence being moved back a bit at a time until it cuts to full depth.
 
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