How to reproduce grooved cupboard door face?

[bryan.crotaz]

I've seen a really beautiful kitchen in a showroom that I want to reproduce for my kitchen without the £50,000 price tag!

In the face of the cupboard doors there's a series of convex grooves, top to bottom of the door face. Grooves about 5mm wide, 2-3mm deep, with 5mm ish gaps between the grooves.

What tool would you use to make a whole series of these to fit out a kitchen? I'm imagining a thicknesser with a shaped blade. Is there a table saw attachment maybe?

 

[AndrewG]

Hi, welcome welcome back to the forum.

I did think that 'convex groove' might be an oxymoron! But what every grooves you want it is probably going to be a question of the right router cutter, router, straight edge and method to index it over between cuts..... unless you are making 100s.

Might this be the basis of what you want?

 

[Ed Weber]

I think your thread title needs some much needed context.

 

[bryan.crotaz]

convex in that the sides of the groove are deeper than the centre. If the centre was deepest then a simple router cutter indexed over would do it.

The cross section is a square high, then a semi-circle where the top of the semicircle is level with the square rib. The problem is that the cut is curved on one side and straight on the other, so a router bit can't cut it, the tool spin has to be in the plane of the surface, not at a normal to it. Hence a plane, milling or saw blade.

 

[John Brown]

Well, when a mummy and a daddy love each other very much, a stork comes along and leaves a baby under a gooseberry bush...

 

[bryan.crotaz]

Well, when a mummy and a daddy love each other very much, a stork comes along and leaves a baby under a gooseberry bush...

But how do I sharpen a stork when it gets blunt?

 

[bryan.crotaz]

I think your thread title needs some much needed context.

You all have very dirty minds...

 

[Inspector]

It would probably help if you could post a picture or link to what you are looking to make.

Here we have planer moulders (thicknesser that also can do straight or curved mouldings (I have 2 kinds) but they are not sold in the UK to my knowledge.
Williams & Hussey Machine and Tool Co.
http://woodmastertools.com/category/planermolders/?doing_wp_cron=1699555190.1730530261993408203125https://jettools.com/jpm-13cs-13-closed-stand-planer-molder-1-1-2hp-1ph-115-230v
There also used to be moulding heads that were used in table saws and radial arm saws but they are hard to find new if at all. Lots of used ones though. They would be put in the saw below a blade insert and brought up spinning through it to make a zero clearance insert. With suitable guards and fingerboards you push your wood over. You will be hard pressed to find one in the UK since they, like dado blades, fell out of favour because of the potential dangers.

Your best bet would be a moulding plane, a scratch stock or one of the combination planes like a Stanley #45 or equivalent. Should produce a good surface if the wood isn't heavily figured.

Routers will work, perhaps with multiple passes using different bits with the exception of shapes that are not symmetrical.

Pete

 

[bryan.crotaz]

 

[Doug71]

Bead and Butt?

You can buy it or make your own

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Bea...ard-MDF-Panel---6-x-607-x-1220mm/p/190140?fix
https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Bead---Butt-MDF.html
You can also buy a block for a Festool saw to make it but it's a bit spendy.

 

[bryan.crotaz]

> Bead and Butt?
Doug, you bloody genius - of course! Just need to make a custom router mount and a stepping system.

 

[Ollie78]

It would probably help if you could post a picture or link to what you are looking to make.

Here we have planer moulders (thicknesser that also can do straight or curved mouldings (I have 2 kinds) but they are not sold in the UK to my knowledge.
Williams & Hussey Machine and Tool Co.
http://woodmastertools.com/category/planermolders/?doing_wp_cron=1699555190.1730530261993408203125https://jettools.com/jpm-13cs-13-closed-stand-planer-molder-1-1-2hp-1ph-115-230v
There also used to be moulding heads that were used in table saws and radial arm saws but they are hard to find new if at all. Lots of used ones though. They would be put in the saw below a blade insert and brought up spinning through it to make a zero clearance insert. With suitable guards and fingerboards you push your wood over. You will be hard pressed to find one in the UK since they, like dado blades, fell out of favour because of the potential dangers.

Your best bet would be a moulding plane, a scratch stock or one of the combination planes like a Stanley #45 or equivalent. Should produce a good surface if the wood isn't heavily figured.

Routers will work, perhaps with multiple passes using different bits with the exception of shapes that are not symmetrical.

Pete

I saw those planer moulders on an American show and thought they looked a good idea.
I think we can't have them in Europe because they just use flat knives in a block like old fashioned spindle moulder (shaper) heads.
All tooling must now have limiters or limited tool protrusion at least.
For the OP you can buy special heads for certain circular saws to allow tenon or moulding cuts and with a track you could achieve what you want, however I think its a Mafell saw so not a cheap option.


Ollie

 

[Doug71]

> Bead and Butt?

Doug, you bloody genius - of course! Just need to make a custom router mount and a stepping system.

Not quite the same profile but here is a thread from a few weeks ago that might be of interest.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/making-bead-and-butt-mdf.144612/

 

[Inspector]

You can find molding heads on your eBay but would have to modify the knives as well as having a saw with a long enough arbor to fit. Or you can buy new from Eastern Canada. Moldingknives.com Their beadboard series knives are what you are looking for. The £ is about two times our Canadian dollar so those prices would be half plus whatever the shipping and your beastly taxes would be. You would take a pass on all your stock before stepping the fence over the right amount and repeat until done. The finish would be better than any router and a router can't make that shape.

Pete