I wouldn’t expect it to split. Once the saw kerf is taken out the additional spread from the taper is not going to be enough to split it.Wouldn’t that split the wood at the end of the slot?
I wouldn’t expect it to split. Once the saw kerf is taken out the additional spread from the taper is not going to be enough to split it.Wouldn’t that split the wood at the end of the slot?
Very difficult to do without the right tool for the job. So make it as a 3 piece handle, two sides and a piece of wood the same thickness as the blade to make up the gap around the tang. Done it many times myself and can be done almost invisibly if you are careful but personally I try and make it a feature and use a contrasting material/colour.
I’m also wondering about glue. Try though I might this knife often ends up in the dishwasher. Do you think epoxy would cope?
Just a thought but could you use a curved floorboard saw.
Would you mind telling my partner that?Hi Kev, this not a comment on the slot for the tang, merely an observation on the state of the wood of the existing handle. It looks like the knife has been regularly placed in a dishwasher? I've replaced/renovated a number of kitchen utensils and have learnt that the best way to look after them is to hand wash the blade and buff down the wood keeping them out of the dishwasher.
You certainly can cut a curve. I once used one by drilling a hole through the blade so I could swing it to and fro on a pivot to cut a round slot the diameter of the curved end. Also very good where you want to cut a deep slot with a blind end. Of course you can also just use a conventional tenon saw or whatever and start the cut with the heel of the blade.They don't cut a curved kerf, you can just use them to start a cut in the middle of a board.
You certainly can cut a curve. I once used one by drilling a hole through the blade so I could swing it to and fro on a pivot to cut a round slot the diameter of the curved end. Also very good where you want to cut a deep slot with a blind end. Of course you can also just use a conventional tenon saw or whatever and start the cut with the heel of the blade.
Agreed, you would certainly need to steer the blade accurately.Oh well Ok yes they can cut a curve if used like you say, but just used in your hands it wouldn't work very well.
Edit to add a link to thread on how to go the casting route if you fancy that:
https://edgematters.uk/thread/35933-home-made-mycarta-knife-tutorial/?pageNo=1
Very interesting. I’ll have a wee practice with my dovetail saw (the thinnest of my saw blades).You certainly can cut a curve. I once used one by drilling a hole through the blade so I could swing it to and fro on a pivot to cut a round slot the diameter of the curved end. Also very good where you want to cut a deep slot with a blind end. Of course you can also just use a conventional tenon saw or whatever and start the cut with the heel of the blade.
Same hereI was intrigued enough to click this link as it sounded quite interesting (have no idea what “mircarta” is and thought I may need that in my repertoire) so was a bit disappointed to find it led to a page telling me I don’t have access authority
Blew 5 minutes earlier by googling it which led to a host of utube clips where folks were basically laminating stuff with epoxy..usually fabric but other stuff too. As epoxy isn’t the cheapest stuff these days what with everyone and his brother thinking they can make live edge river tables etc, it’s a pass for me.Same here
Yes certainly.Would you mind telling my partner that?
This.Most knife handle scales are two pieces of wood then glued and riveted to the blade and shaped in situ. If done carefully the joint will not show. I woukk on d remove the old scales and look at the hilt you may find it’s not tapered?
Tufnol was first produced in the late 1920's whereas Micarta goes back to at least 1910 invented by Leo Baekeland the creator of Bakelite.Micarta is basically a pretty homemade version of Tufnol.
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