How to Finish off - hardwood inlaid into Soft

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rewound

Established Member
Joined
27 Dec 2022
Messages
203
Reaction score
150
Location
UK
It is a small table I am making that is a mix of Teak and a softwood (its all stuff out of a skip)
I have so far just been using a scraper to level the teak down to (very nearly) the level of the softwood. But what best next, exp where the grains run at 90 degrees from each other. Do I just sand it, or do something to stop the grain rising ? I have no experiance of this next bit.

I m wanting to finish it with a Danish Oil
x-SWT-4944.jpg


x-SWT-4938.jpg
 
The pine will sand faster than the teak, so easy to make a dent. Ideally seal the pine first so you don’t get dark dust in the pores of the light wood, then wrap your paper around something stiff like a chunk of oak or bit of steel. Looks like you also have some tear out on the pine which you want to fill first too
 
The pine will sand faster than the teak, so easy to make a dent. Ideally seal the pine first so you don’t get dark dust in the pores of the light wood, then wrap your paper around something stiff like a chunk of oak or bit of steel. Looks like you also have some tear out on the pine which you want to fill first too
No tear out, think what you are looking at is some dried glue sitting in the lows between grain on the softwood,

Trouble is with sanding with a long straight edge (apart from the fact that it doesn't really work) is that the grains are running at 90 degrees to each other.

You say seal the pine first, how will that affect the application of a finishing oil ?
 
No tear out, think what you are looking at is some dried glue sitting in the lows between grain on the softwood,

Trouble is with sanding with a long straight edge (apart from the fact that it doesn't really work) is that the grains are running at 90 degrees to each other.

You say seal the pine first, how will that affect the application of a finishing oil ?
Once you have sanded the hardwood down then the sealing surfice will be abraided too.
 
Once you have sanded the hardwood down then the sealing surfice will be abraided too.
do you mean surface or suffice ? and i'm thinking you mean to wear down rather than to wake up ?
even with the correct words it still does not make much sense.

could you have another go at explaining
 
Sorry - The sealed surface of the softwood will be abraided enough to take another finish.
 
Sanding with a flat block or alternatively sticking the paper to a sheet of glass, is how people have been finishing things like this for the last hundred years or so, however if you think it doesn’t work, don’t try it.

I do it all the time, guess I’m just lucky.
 
Freshly sharpened cabinet scraper.

Ollie
The more I experiment with scrappers, and the better I get at preparing/sharpening them, the more I am falling in love with them, they seem to give a beautiful finish even when not entirely with the grain. Beginning to wonder why I have wasted so much time with sandpaper..

you don't even have to wear a mask as they don't appear to create an air borne dust. - I guess they're not a 'power tool' you can make them yourself for free, so there is nothing to market.

Got some oil on it tonight, it might look OK when I get it buffed up
x-SWT-4976.jpg

Didn't see that horrible dark line appearing in the teak edge - don't know if I can do anythink about that?
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top