How to drill into a concrete lintel?

[DRC]

Perhaps, rather than referring to SDS driils, it would be more accurate to
refer to their correct name, rotary hammer drills. The term SDS only really
refers to the chuck, and it's particular method of holding the bit.. That said,
I'm not aware of a percussion drill that has an SDS chuck.
The hammer action on a RH drill is delivered differently to that of a
percussion drill (regular DIY type), and excels at drilling into harder materials.
The difference is night & day.

Thank goodness for your sensible comments.

 

[TheUnicorn]

There's another way, that hasn't been mentioned yet.

View attachment 180857
30mm Aldi Forstner bit (or cheap disposable one)
35mm Holesaw
Guide for drilling plaster
Offcut of ply for plugging
6mm dowel (fits the holesaw drill bit size) to assist inserting ply plug
Construction adhesive to fix plywood plug
Filler to skim over for finish

Adapt this idea for larger size plugs

Edit. Only used this on p/board walls and dot-and-dab, would possibly work on plastered as long as there's enough depth before hitting brickwork.

respectfully, I don't see how this fits the discussion, about mounting a batten of wood onto masonry, I assume with rawl plugs or similar. that said I think a template for a hole saw is a good idea to stop it skidding around the place, I occasionally use this technique if I want to cut a solid circle, however I dont understand where the forsener bit comes in?

 

[MikeJhn]

That Titan SDS from Screwfix was too heavy for my wife to use so I took it back.

 

[JSW]

respectfully, I don't see how this fits the discussion, about mounting a batten of wood onto masonry, I assume with rawl plugs or similar. that said I think a template for a hole saw is a good idea to stop it skidding around the place, I occasionally use this technique if I want to cut a solid circle, however I dont understand where the forsener bit comes in?

It won't mount it onto masonry, the idea is an extension of using grab adhesive, which has already been mentioned a couple of times.

The template is for the forstner bit, tack the template to the wall with the pins (pictured) drill out to 10mm (plasterboard thickness) The hole saw is for cutting a piece of 10mm ply to fit the hole, blather with grab adhesive, insert the 6mm dowel for purchase, push into plasterboard (or potentially plaster) a hair below the surface, leave to set, skim with filler.

I don't know why I bother, I've used this method dozens of times, these shelves are sat above my head as I type, they're held with 6 of these ply plugs, The boxes on them are chock full of computer cabling and accessories. They are HEAVY. They are also rock solid, and this is into a stud wall.

 

[Lons]

Agree wholeheartedly. There is a major difference between an ordinary drill with hammer action and a rotary hammer drill.

Perhaps, rather than referring to SDS driils, it would be more accurate to
refer to their correct name, rotary hammer drills. The term SDS only really
refers to the chuck, and it's particular method of holding the bit.. That said,
I'm not aware of a percussion drill that has an SDS chuck.
The hammer action on a RH drill is delivered differently to that of a
percussion drill (regular DIY type), and excels at drilling into harder materials.
The difference is night & day.

Whilst correct an informative it's academic really as anyone looking to buy would see the description as an SDS or SDS+ drill even though that refers to the chuck, so thats what they would need to research and compare models.

I used SDS+ for years in my business and at home and have several. For occasional use the cheap versions are perfectly adequate and will last a long time though not up to the standard of the Bosch and DeWalt models I own.

 

[John Hall]

I second the Bosch Cyl 9 multipurpose bits…carbide tips, but special grind to go through most materials….ive used them for exactly what you’re doing….works a treat..prices do vary…a lot!…check Amazon and EBay..

 

[Bingy man]

If you come across a flint in old brickwork (and you will know when you have) putting a steel punch in the hole and giving a hefty whack (or two) to shatter it, usually works. Also with old walls I never start with the hammer on..... ask me how I know

I would never of thought of that tbh so cheers . Don’t come across much flint in w-ton thankfully..

 

[Stevekane]

The Bosch Blue Multi Material masonary bits are great, drilled holes easily when brand new Makita masonry drills failed,,well worth the extra cost.

 

[Daniel2]

I'm a Hilti snob afficiando, sorry

 

[MikeJhn]

I would never of thought of that tbh so cheers . Don’t come across much flint in w-ton thankfully..

My place is 600mm solid flint with sand and cement render internally, the render is so hard had to use an angle grinder to chase in the electrics, an SDS drill works into the render, but that's it until you break the flint behind, sinking patress box's was fun.

 

[Dave Moore]

Get an SDS+ drill and (masonry) bits. Night and day to an ordinary hammer drill. Try not to hit the rebar.

Hi,
You can get sds designed for drilling rebar. They have two cutting edges on the tip instead of just one making a cross on the tip.
Regards,
Dave

 

[TheUnicorn]

It won't mount it onto masonry, the idea is an extension of using grab adhesive, which has already been mentioned a couple of times.

The template is for the forstner bit, tack the template to the wall with the pins (pictured) drill out to 10mm (plasterboard thickness) The hole saw is for cutting a piece of 10mm ply to fit the hole, blather with grab adhesive, insert the 6mm dowel for purchase, push into plasterboard (or potentially plaster) a hair below the surface, leave to set, skim with filler.

I don't know why I bother, I've used this method dozens of times, these shelves are sat above my head as I type, they're held with 6 of these ply plugs, The boxes on them are chock full of computer cabling and accessories. They are HEAVY. They are also rock solid, and this is into a stud wall.

View attachment 180880

thanks for the explanation

 

[Bingy man]

My place is 600mm solid flint with sand and cement render, the render is so hard had to use an angle grinder to chase in the electrics, an SDS drill works into the render, but that's it until you break the flint behind, sinking patress box's was fun.

Sounds like a complete nightmare- clearly our ancient ancestors had the right idea when using flint to make cutting tools , arrow heads etc . I guess your house is not going to fall down anytime soon ..

 

[Bingy man]

I’m now wondering in a hardness test would flint be harder than blue bricks ??

 

[Essex Barn Workshop]

Given that he says "Also I'm getting weaker as I get older" in his original post, do you think that mention of a 5.9kg drill is appropriate in the circumstances?

I would urge the OP not to consider anything approaching that size. For domestic use, the lightest model on the market will be more than adequate for his needs.

Fair point, well made. it is indeed a bit of a beast.

 

[MikeJhn]

Sounds like a complete nightmare- clearly our ancient ancestors had the right idea when using flint to make cutting tools , arrow heads etc . I guess your house is not going to fall down anytime soon ..

It's been standing, as far as we can tell, for over 500 years without any foundations, just built straight off the North Downs chalk.

 

[Stan]

Thanks all - some good advice.

SDS drill +bits en route.

 

[Etaf]

in fact I did use a 5mm bosch drill bit (with yellow rawl plugs) with my cordless combi drill to drill into a lintel - metal as did have metal filings on - so if necessary I could have gone to use the RED rawl plugs if the bit moved about at all and 5.5mm / 6mm drill
so you may want to try those first , before purchasing an SDS and bits

 

[MikeJhn]

I’m now wondering in a hardness test would flint be harder than blue bricks ??

Short answer yes evidenced here: https://eprints.gla.ac.uk/226138/1/226135.pdf compared to an engineering brick at its best 125N/mm2

 

[Bingy man]

Short answer yes evidenced here: https://eprints.gla.ac.uk/226138/1/226135.pdf compared to an engineering brick at its best 125N/mm2

To be honest I’m not surprised as there are not many materials that can get a masonry drill bit hot enough to melt the brazing so the tct just falls of..