How to change bearings on ELU MOF96 2 video's

[scrimper]

I have owned a ELU MOF96E since 1988, a few weeks ago the bottom bearing seized up, I thought it might be useful to someone else with the same problem so I video's myself doing the repair.

The video is in 2 parts and can be found here

Part one https://youtu.be/rXflJFFPo1E

Part two https://youtu.be/IPmWgNa9zRw

Hope it might be of interest to anyone with an ELU router.

 

[Genn]

Hi Scrimperuk,

Just watched the video as I have a MOF177 that needs some tlc, about the circlip I think it would be easy to put back with the other arm removed from the base plate. You then put in the circlip with the bottom off the router so the plastic shroud is not in the way, the base swings out of the way for re-assembly and you put the other shaft in, position it with the lock and fit the base and roll pin in it when the router is re-assembled completely. Love to watch these types of videos, thanks for the post.

BR Genn

 

[Eric The Viking]

Thanks for this, Scrimper - informative and enjoyable!

I'm glad it's not just me that mutters a lot when dismantling/repairing stuff. Sometimes you wonder what they ere thinking at the design stage!

It's interesting that the speed control module seems very similar to the T11 (and presumably the bigger Elu the design copies). My T11 lives upside-down in my router table and the spinning magnet ring dropped out of alignment: symptoms were the router running flat out all the time. Fix was putting it back with a dab of Loctite to keep it in the right place on the shaft. It's been fine for several years now. It seems to be a fairly common fault. I mention it only in case the bearing change disturbed yours and you get similar symptoms. I noticed near the end of video #2 that there's evicence of Loctite on your magnet: you might have done that on reassembly and I might have missed it (had to spot through it as haven't the time this morning).

But thanks for taking the trouble - I for one really appreciated it.

 

[scrimper]

Fix was putting it back with a dab of Loctite to keep it in the right place on the shaft. It's been fine for several years now. It seems to be a fairly common fault. I mention it only in case the bearing change disturbed yours and you get similar symptoms. I noticed near the end of video #2 that there's evicence of Loctite on your magnet: you might have done that on reassembly and I might have missed it (had to spot through it as haven't the time this morning).

I notice the evidence of Loctite too, so it must have been done in production, I did consider doing the same on reassembly, however it did seem a tight fit and as it does not do much other than spin i decided to just leave it for now for two reasons. The first reason was that I thought I might have to take it apart again because the router wouldn't work and secondly it is a simple job to take the 2 screws off the top cover and do it later anyway.
On thinking though your comment makes a lot of sense and I think I will in fact add some Loctite before replacing it in it's table.

 

[NickN]

Very useful videos there, thank you - will keep them for the day when I might need it!

For anyone with a MOF 177 there's a decent pair of videos showing removal and reinstallation on a Dewalt 625:

1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmaSmYnWbCY

2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GspUOCTDvns

 

[Sideways]

Great video. The information on how to do this is out there but it's written down and from a good few years ago, no videos until yours.
Please do add a note to your first one though. As you found, there's no need to knock out the pin securing either column to the baseplate.

At the top end of the armature, the little brown resin disk containing the magnet that works with the hall sensor in the speed controller - that's just a friction or lightly glued fit. It twists off carefully with pliers.

I envy you your slim line bearing pullers, those or a slim but stiff piece of steel strip with a U notch to fit around the armature spindle are the only safe way I've seen to pull the small bearing. The spindle is quite slim and they can snap !

If you disconnect the side power switch, it is a little easier to get at that awkward circlip.

Thanks for taking the trouble to share this.

 

[Silfi]

When I changed the top bearing on my router I did not remove the base plate. (could not find out how it came off!)

To loosen the 4 screws I used a hex screwdriver bit (used in cordless drills) and a small spanner to fit the hex size.
If it is difficult to stop the bit rising out of the screw head place a small block of wood inside the base and use the plunge mechanism to hold the bit securely in the screw. Then slacken screw with the spanner.
If you don't have a box of spare bearings available! this is a standard item available from bearing suppliers or on-line. The identification code is stamped on the flange of the bearing.

 

[Naturally Wood]

Hi ScrimperUK
Bearings went on my MOF96E yesterday afternoon and I spent the rest of the afternoon trying to work out how to get into it, I too have taken out the roll pin from the base plate but still couldn't work it out! I was so pleased and thankful to find your wonderful videos when I got home. You are clearly a man after my own heart, your user name sums it up! And I love your slightly pessimistic style, my wife was getting just as frustrated listening in to you as she gets with me, her glass is always half full...!

Now I just have to get back to my work shop and put into practice what I have learned, here's hoping, what can possibly go wrong!!

I'll let you know if I come up with a solution to the circlip conundrum.