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Flushed with my success from yesterday. I’m going to have a go at mounting my spindle moulder rebate block, with a top bearing to create a serious flush cutter. The advantage of the spindle block is that it has carbide disposable cutters and ‘nickers’, so none of the issues of a router cutter that creates tear out at the edges. I think the extra mass will mean it can take a good bite in one go. I intend to vary the top bearing (which I have a few) to allow me to cut door or window frame rebates. These are typically 16mm deep and around 50mm deep.I would welcome any suggestions, help with how to do this setup as safely as possible. The cutters on this rig will be on the side, ie exposed to my midriff where as the field block had them on the top, out of the way so to speak. They are limited projection, so the sane amount of cutter exposed as any router bit.I intend to do it hand held again.
Flushed with my success from yesterday. I’m going to have a go at mounting my spindle moulder rebate block, with a top bearing to create a serious flush cutter. The advantage of the spindle block is that it has carbide disposable cutters and ‘nickers’, so none of the issues of a router cutter that creates tear out at the edges. I think the extra mass will mean it can take a good bite in one go. I intend to vary the top bearing (which I have a few) to allow me to cut door or window frame rebates. These are typically 16mm deep and around 50mm deep.
I would welcome any suggestions, help with how to do this setup as safely as possible. The cutters on this rig will be on the side, ie exposed to my midriff where as the field block had them on the top, out of the way so to speak. They are limited projection, so the sane amount of cutter exposed as any router bit.
I intend to do it hand held again.
